JustEmptyEveryPocket

My BA 10-5 did great for a bunch of miles (maybe ~50,000 for me, ~200,000 total?). It started howling in fifth gear and I ignored it. Drove like that for months and several thousand miles before something went *BANG BANG*. Then my poor truck stopped putting power to the wheels, the smell of hot gear oil invaded the cab, and I coasted to the side of the road. Had to get trailered home after that. But its back up and going with a 96 AX-15. So my words of minor wisdom would be fix it for easy parts until something internally goes *pop*, then replace the whole sheebang with a 94+ AX-15. Good luck.

These are awesome tools. Well worth the investment, even for just a few holes. I use them when putting together some red iron buildings (dang engineers and their incorrect hole placements! ), but same difference.

Mevotech TTX Ball Joints might be a good option compared to Moog. I have read several user reviews that they are great quality for the price. YMMV For me, ball joints are one of those jobs that I want to do once and do right because it sucks.

To me it sounds like the shop doesn't want the job. So they priced it stupid high with the double sided benefit that either 1. you would walk away or 2. they would make a silly amount of money for the job.

Could you provide a link? In my 5 minutes of googling I found plenty of precision mfg companies, but none seemed to make jeep parts.... Sorry for my lack of Google-Fu

Definitely different per side.

I think its a line from a gen2 dodge 1500 (think 1997 or so). Look at those specs and see if it gets you close enough.

She threw out a perfectly good piece of pizza? Time for a divorce. (<-- totally joking)

You ever read something and think .... "That's violently American"?

For a triple check, could you post the part numbers here?

What is up with the rear axle/ fender? Is it a dually? (can't tell from the photo). Either way, more info wanted please!

Holy mother of hoarding!

https://www.jhsph.edu/covid-19/articles/achieving-herd-immunity-with-covid19.html Interesting read. Explains concepts fairly well. The problem of maintaining a properly sloped infection curve in the US will be the people themselves. To quote a famous comic (Carlin) “Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that.”

And remember that if your multimeter tells you 12 VDC, you aren't done yet. Make sure it can light your testlight nice and bright. That way you know it can also carry the load. I might have been bit by this before . . . Sorry to be extra cautious.

For cheap I recommend you build your own. Find a spare truck bulb (I used one of the small interior light bults), solder a wire to each end of the bulb about 24" long, strip each far end, and tin them up. Then you can use it just like a regular testlight. Except it is free and made from junk parts. I used mine for many years before finding a good testlight at an auction.

Hmmm. Have you sprayed brake cleaner at all the vacuum points with the engine running? Sounds like you might have a pretty large vacuum leak somewhere.

I would almost bet money this happened. I had the same problem on my truck when I swapped to a 97 front and wired in the extra turn signal bulbs (incorrectly of course) Unfortunately I can't think of an easy way to check this without cutting the plug out and rewiring it.

As in removed the wiring plug with the truck running, or removed the entire component (leaving a large hold in the throttle body) with the truck running?

I don't have any pertinent to add to this discussion. Eaglescout526 and Ohm seem to be steering you right. Just wanted to say that I am damned impressed with your willingness to stick to it, reply with good questions and good information, and keep a positive attitude for it. You are learning a bunch that will help you out with this truck. Don't give up on it. Keep the great attitude and go get up style and that truck will be working again in short order.

For me there are two roads of thought. Buy super cheap, replace as needed. I actually went this route three times in a row, over the course of 7 years. Finally got tired of R&R the borked one for a new cheap one. Not to mention it wouldn't CLEAN the dishes. If my wife and I didn't rinse off each plate/ glass/ fork/ etc, and arrange them in the trays carefully, they would leave all kinds of messes behind. Pay out the nose upfront, but be satisfied in it lasting. Last one we put in was a Bosch. Works great. Quiet. Actually washes the dishes, so we can just scrape off the big chunks and load it up. Large capacity. Feels of quality. Going on two years now and very happy with it. The older I get, the more likely I am to drop big bucks on quality upfront to avoid the headache and frustration of crappy tools/ components down the road. And by and large (generalizing here) if a company offers a product for $$$ compared to other companies they usually stand behind it if you have problems. And the warranties tend to extend much further into the future. YMMV. Oh, last comment from me. For big purchases (like a dishwasher) if the product is sold at box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc . . . .run. Run far away and hide. Find a local store where the owner both sells units AND REPAIRS THEM. He will get you the good quality ones if you ask. And he knows which ones are most likely to break because he has to go fix them.

Handy search feature: Go to Google, type in "site:comancheclub.com ******" without the quotes and your search query instead of the ******. Limits results to this site only. Makes it easy to find old threads like this one:

But OP says it will start if jumped. That is what has me puzzled. What would be different about (in essence) hooking up another good battery versus a new battery? OP: What is the resting voltage of your new battery? If you jump the truck and get it running, what is the voltage of the new battery then? Easiest test (IMO) right now would be to pull a plug, ground it to the block, crank the engine, and watch for spark. If you have spark, then we need to move to something new. If you do not have spark then CPS becomes suspect #1.

When you are jumping it, where do you put the ground clamp on the MJ? I'm wondering if you are missing some body or engine ground points, and by completing a circuit from a good ground and power source you are getting around that. Could also be way off. Electrical is not my strongest area. But this is what jumped (haha un-intended pun) to mind first.

IMO, I would get good quality adjustable ones. That way you can dial in where your wheel sits in the wheel well and your caster angle. Personally I set mine for ~10* an love the road feel of it. Plus, good quality adjustables will let you move to a bigger lift down the road if you want.

*snarky comment* Of course. Liberal application of a blue tipped wrench will remove it in no time! Someone more knowledgeable than me will come along soon to give an accurate answer soon, I am sure.