JMO413

I have to ask what brand of corner lights are those. I got a set of clear Crown ones and they fit horribly.

Got a nice surprise in the mail Friday. I ordered these less than two weeks ago. Their website says 4-6 weeks. I really liked their steering box spacer. Then I noticed how beefy their upper control arms looked. I also noticed my WJ upper control arm hits my center section on long up travel. Figured this out when I pulled the transmission. I hope I'm half as happy with them on as I am with them in my hands. To bad they will have to wait a little bit to get on.

The bell crank that runs from the throttle cable to throttle body on mine was crusty. Lubed all the pivot point and it was much better.

Agreed

Amazing truck love the attention to detail.

These look like the outer diameter is 1.79. It looks like Dorman part number 13996 outer diameter is 1.8 Hopefully this helps.

There is no programming. Jeep updated the ECM in 89/90 that is why you must replace the whole thing. The programming is set in them. I did this upgrade, not sure how much it helped I did a couple other things at the same time. I did ECM and injectors at the same time and it was a very noticeable change in idle and throttle response. Cruiser says it's worth while and I pretty much take his word on anything Renix. Here's kinda the Renix godfather around here. If you haven't looked through his website I strongly recommend it.

After another day of fighting with me and she's back on the road. Filled up the transmission and t-case. Fought to get the three screws back in the inspection plate for way too long. Took her for the maiden voyage with the new clutch. It all started great then took a turn for the worse. On the way back the tach was cutting out along with the truck. After I limped her home. I figured out the brand new CPS found the exhaust manifold. I then found the old CPS to see how it was routed. I found it had a little bracket on it that goes on a transmission mount bolt. I then installed the 2nd NOS CPS I had. After fighting with it for an hour or so it was routed the way the factory intended. I knew the old CPS was on its way out when tested it only read .35 volts and was slow to start. After the 2nd CPS was installed it was time for test drive number two. She starts right up no more long crank. Everything went well on the second trip. When I got back I installed all the new parts I had bought for the interior. New inner shift boot, outer shift boot, shifter knob, and 4wd indictor trim. New inner shift boot fits decent. New outer shift boot without any tears. New shift knob that hasn't been glued together. Still can't believe this sat on a dealership shelf for 20 years. The old one had seen better days. Everything back together and ready to go. I got the 4wd indicator trim on eBay for $5. Definitely looks better than the old trashed one. Now I just have to break in the clutch.

Well after a long day she is mostly back together. I just need to fill the t-case and transmission tomorrow. I also need to install the front driver shaft. I started it and pulled it forward a couple inches and back to where I started. The clutch feels so much better than it every has. Then I got my wife to help me bleed it. The pedal finally feels like a real clutch. The old transmission mount was shot. The new crown mount didn't have the fail bolt in the middle so I made one. Had no idea they made an elevator bolt. It looks like it belongs there. I didn't really tightened it just snug and loctite. I then forgot that I had a phone or how to take pictures. The short is new flywheel, fiber plate, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. Installed studs where the top e-torx bolts were. Had to split the trans from the t-case to get it to line back up. Of course four of the studs came out of the t-case. A to to the hardware store and all was back on track. Installed the new trans mount. Installed the rear driveshaft with a new strap kit. The plan for tomorrow is to button up the few loose ends and back on the road. I should probably put the interior back together also.It is crazy how much I miss driving this old truck.

Welcome to the club. Good looking truck you have there.

Thanks for such a good write up. Glad I could help.

Congratulations on MJOTH! That is a very nice truck you have there.

Wow what a build. I have spent the last couple days reading through it. You definitely have a very nice truck. The attention to detail is amazing. Keep up the great work!

Finally got there last piece to the puzzle today. After allot of looking I found an inner shift boot that is almost an exact match. The old one was beyond shot. Part number is 52078970AC. The screw holes match up perfectly.

Finally have almost all the parts I need to get it all back together. The best part is I have Friday off. Hopefully I will be driving her again on Friday. Painted the inspection cover. New shifter knob mine was previously repaired and glued on. It's didn't come of looking very nice. New upper shifter boots. Bought two, next time I need done in sure they won't exist. New bushings for the t-case shifter. Happy to see these are readily available from Mopar still. New straps for the drive shafts. And a couple options to get rid of the e torx top two bolts. Not sure if I go with studs or bolts. I have both options available. It truly blows my mind that this shift knob sat on a dealership shelf for 20 years. The ship date to the dealer was 02/12/99. Hopefully the inner shift boot I have coming in Friday will work!

Those cleaned up nice!

Mopar 195 Thermostat part number is 83501426AD. It has the little bleeder in that makes getting the air out of the system easier. I would replace the water pump if you were doing it yourself. I wouldn't pay someone to do it if it's working.

Raptor is made by Upol sand they make a very quality product. I have heard allot of good things about it.

Parts catalog says 2wd and 4wd are different part numbers. So I would guess no.

Welcome to the club. Great to hear the truck has been in your family so long.

Both of mine were very stiff. I pulled both for panels and put white lithium grease in the metal track. They are both now easy and smooth.

The MAP sensor mod just makes a much better seal at the throttle body end. The original push in style is very prone to leaking and or letting the hose fall out. I have chased the perfect idle since I got mine and it still wonders a little. Mine goes between 675 and 750 RPM. From what I have read I believe they all do this.

And those reasons are why I don't do the Facebook. This forum is real people who actually understand and know the truck they are working on. Facebook is a sad representation of anything that has anything to do with it. Facebook is for people who don't want to test parts or actually fix things IMHO. Thank you Pete and all the members here!!

I'm 6'4 and fit in mine comfortably.

Welcome to the club.