Parei_doll_ia

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Those shocks look too short for how they're mounted. I think those are XJ axle mounts which are lower than the MJ mounts that are on the spring plates, especially with SOA. Mine has 2.5-3" lift, and when I got it it had stock XJ shocks on it that were too short and it rode poorly too. I would weld new mounts on and measure for new shocks. Typically you want the ride height of the shock to sit between 1/3-2/3 of the travel since the performance of the shock valving drops off at the extremes.

I'm assuming it's the pot side of the caliper, there's a metal retainer on the pad that clips inside the cylinder. Just hit it from the other side until it comes out

I got the ones off Rockauto (VARIOUS MFR) and they were fine, not the cleanest molds in the world, but with a little careful cutting and sanding/painting, they look fine.

This would have been great to have about 8 months ago before I hacked a couple xj arches together

Kind of all over the place. Anywhere from 8-15k. A lot have low miles since they were bought back in 2015 and they're still finding their way back on to the road.

This will be my next motorcycle. I love the FZ, but miss dual sporting

When your truck starts to get death wobble: I guess that one's too explicit so here's the "censored" version:

VW TDI. I bought mine about 2 years ago for ~$9500 and if you don't have to do a visual inspection, I get 50 MPG and 170hp/295lbft with a stage 1 Stevenson tune. It loves the highway, rides great, and handles great too. Easiest manual I've ever driven, 1st gear is almost too low. I've pretty much only done oil changes and fuel filters, along with the timing belt, but I did that early because it was 10 years old. That was actually pretty easy and cost me about $500. Find a 2015 and you'll have the rare MK7 TDI.

Winter project: I pulled a d30 from a 92 XJ, and a 8.8 from a 01 Explorer. Plan is to clean them up and gear them to 4.10 with a Trutrac in the rear. Still undecided on what I want in the front, an LSD won't do much, but I need a new carrier anyways. I bought MW springs from General Spring, and will probably be replacing a lot of front end parts with Clayton Offroad stuff, and lifting from 3" spacers to 4.5" coils. I also ordered some c clip eliminator axles from Summit that should widen the axle from 1" narrower than the d35 to 1" wider. The d30 is 95% rust free, it was protected by a healthy coating of grease. I ended up mangling the lower CA mount trying to get the rest of the CA out, so I welded on some Artec mounts along with boxing in the passenger upper mount. I also took a bunch of measurements with how my truck is now, and did some calculations for deciding on what shackles I should get by doing some trig. I'm leaning towards Clayton right now, waiting to see if they do something for Black Friday. Everything I own tucks in nicely behind the truck :)

I always just take the lower hose off, it's faster, easier, and gets more junk out. Remove the efan to get access so you don't get hot water in your face. The new CSF rad I put in doesn't even have a petcock there

Military wrap doesn't really add anything to the spring, it's just the one GS makes in the US. I think they net 3" over stock. I'm waiting for mine to come in right now. By my measurements, I have 3" front and rear lift currently, and 4.5" springs in the front should make my truck level. I'm waiting until I do the rear in the spring though to get anything for the front.

I use one of my interior trim tools that I don't use much as a plastic scraper, and some acetone to soften it up

Idk, but that and the cooling system is all I've worked on recently, and it stopped working around the time I put those bulbs in. I thought it was something I did when swapping the WJ booster in, but I remembering it working after I did that. I did the LEDs a little later and didn't use cc for a while after. Doesn't make sense to me either. They were Phillips bulbs, and not cheap.

PSA for anyone using or thinking of putting LED bulbs in your stock brake/turn signal housings: I was watching a Technology Connections video (@15:40-20:15 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z5A-COlDPk&ab_channel=TechnologyConnections) and I never really thought about it, but the LED bulbs I had put in my taillights years ago were never really as bright as what I thought they should be. I put the normal bulbs back in, and there definitely is a difference. LED is on the left, incandescent bulbs are on the right. There's also a dead spot in the middle where there aren't any LED chips on the bulb. This must have also been causing some other weird electrical stuff, because I got my cruise control back after swapping normal bulbs back in. My guess is that the diodes allowed a brake signal to the cc computer to stay closed with the brakes off (short through a common ground maybe, or possibly just the low resistance, but I didn't think that should matter without a CANbus), without actually having the brake lights on. The turn signals also did weird stuff with the LEDs, one side would only flash the top bulb with the running lights on, and the other side would only flash the middle. The other would stay bright. Now everything works as it should. Save your money, buy the cheap bulbs.

Changing the bulbs also seemed to fix my cruise control. There must be some electrical trickery going on that installing diodes made the cc computer think the brakes were applied when they weren't, somehow without affecting the operation of the brake lights themselves.

I will be interested in one also

In the words of Mr. Regular(Regular Car Reviews): TOYOTA COROLLA My TDI is a good daily too, but there's a lot of PM on German diesels you have to do on time, every time

Update on the Flowkooler pump: it leaked from the weep hole, but I saw that it happens with them for a little bit then stops. I ran it for a couple days, and it never stopped. It left a puddle anywhere I stopped, the temps kept creeping up after driving it, and it seemed like the efan was having a hard time controlling the temperature. I finally had enough of it, removed the pump and brought it back to Summit Racing. They took it back no questions asked, and I got the AC Delco one in exchange. The $26 pump works wayyyy better than the $90 one, no leaks and temps are sticking right at 195-198, and the efan is only on for about a minute at a time. (I set the REM to come on at 200, off at 195) Looking at the FK pump again after I took it out, I don't really like the design. They use the same cheap casting as GMB, and it's not a single piece casting like the Delco. The impeller wheel also looks more like marketing wanketeering than something that was designed to actually make a difference. Even if it creates more flow than the stock pump, it doesn't really make sense, because a higher mass flow rate of water through the radiator will also require a higher mass flow rate of air through the radiator to have the same amount of heat transferred, which makes sense why my efan was always on. Also I was watching a Technology Connections video (@15:40-20:15 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z5A-COlDPk&ab_channel=TechnologyConnections) and I never really thought about it, but the LED bulbs I had put in the taillights years ago were never really as bright as what I thought they should be. I put the normal bulbs back in, and there definitely is a difference. LED is on the left, incandescent bulbs are on the right. It's amazing what a little bit of proper engineering can do

Free-er flowing exhaust without tuning to add more fuel will cause any FI system to run lean. It's not a big difference though, and your plugs are fine.

Pacesetter is ok, but their fitment is a little weird, the crossover pipe barely cleared my AW4. I think they might have only used the manual when they designed it. I've also heard their QC isn't the greatest, but mine was fine and I've had it for a couple years now with no issues.

I posted it on thingiverse, I might redesign it with threads next since I just realized they were threads on the tank instead of ridges. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939031

I went on a deployment that took us to Iwakuni, Japan for a little bit, and all the drawers in the shop we got were locked by the previous squadron there with no keys. I ended up making a pick set and tumbler wrench out of safety wire to get into them. I also used it on some master locks we had just for fun

I've been getting 15-16, but my REM showed me an O2 sensor warning and my LT was stuck at 140, so we'll see if it improves with the new NTK one I just installed