Parei_doll_ia

Did something happen to Downey Products? Their site has been down for 2 weeks, of course right when I might want to buy a tonneau

General spring military wrapped with Clayton shackles on the 1st hole

4.5"/31s now

It's probably the wrong base. They changed it in the mid 90s and are probably advertising the newer style as fitting which it doesn't unless you glue the new style button to your windshield.

I did torque it in the air, didn't think about that. I loosened the bolts and it still did it, but I think I found the problem. There was some rust in the pocket that was rubbing on the wrap. I hit it with a hammer and a flathead a couple of times and a good bit of it fell out. It didn't make the sound anymore, so it must've been oxide jacking pushing the rust into the wrap with how tight these springs fit. A piece of what fell out:

Has anyone with the military wrapped General Springs had this happen? Only my driver side does it when I jump on the rear driver corner, also while driving. You can visibly see the wrap clicking. Is it a part of them wearing in?

You could also just extrude a boss for an m4 screw or similar and tap it post printing. Then you wouldn't need the clips. Of course this would require that the end user not over torque the screws

I saw a red and black one at Summit Racing the other week. He left before I could get out of my TDI.

Mine broke soon after I bought my truck. Put a ball valve in its place, open it when it's cold out and close it during the warm months.

My Golf doesn't fold like that, but I can move it all the way up to the dash. I bought a hatchback sized inflatable mattress and use it to sleep in on track day weekends.

On to the rear: No more LHSV, I extended the main line to the bracket, removed the emergency line, and added a 24" braided flex line. Willwood proportioning valve added. The rear swap went much easier than the front. I ended up not using any of the Barnes 8.8 swap kit, the 5/8 ubolts were overkill, and I found some RE spring plates that I could mount shocks to like stock and not have to worry about fitting shocks to the axle itself. They are limited to 9/16 though, but that isn't really a problem. I used some Calvert brackets instead of the Barnes ones because the Barnes kit seems designed for spring over applications. I would lose a about .5" with the Barnes kit compared to these, and these are 3/16 steel which is much easier for me to weld with my 120v Hobart 140. The tolerances on these plates are almost too close, I had to find a thinner socket to tighten them. the bolts are protected from any rocks though. Now I just need the shocks to come in to 4WP. I measured 4.69 (nice) inches of lift in the rear with the 0.31 lost to the radius of the 8.8 tube subtracted. I got 4.75 in the front, it sits pretty good I think. I used the lowest lift hole in the Clayton shackles, we'll see how they settle later on. The C clip eliminators also gave me a little over 2" of clearance between the tire and the frame, I barely had an inch with the D35.

Axles finally got done, and I spent most of my spring break working on the swap. Paint These Metalcloak springs are very long. I had to use a coil spring compressor to get them in, which I never had to do with my JK, even with the 3.5 MC springs. For steering, I used a 97+ drag link (thicker) and a V8 ZJ tie rod. It's very close to the edge of the 15 on the driver side, I might have to go up to 16s later, probably with 32s. The TJ swaybar links ended up being a little bit too tall, I bought a 1/2-20 die, added some thread and cut about 1.5" off from this. I took a 4wd indicator switch from a couple different vehicles in the JY, only 1 actually worked. They can be found in anything with a 231 though, this one was from a Durango. I will wire it to the vacuum switch in the engine bay next. Bonus shot of the new gauge at night with the blue LED added.

I like my CSF. It didn't have the bung for the fan switch (96 XJ version) so I've been using my REM to control the fan. Runs 195-205 all day long, it was running 220+ before

These are all from 2015 F-18 taking off in Guam from the CALA Picture I took in S Korea with the work light lighting up the fog behind the jet while waiting for avi to fix the jet Wake Island from the window of the C130 I was in

Those swaps are technically illegal on the federal level. A swapped engine has to be equal to or newer than the year of the emissions certification of the chassis. Most states just don't enforce it. An HO swap would be ok to the feds, I have no clue what Cali would think.

I've also been doing some interior 3d printing in the past couple weeks, finally got around to printing an updated version of the cupholder that I designed in 2020, a REM holder, and a replacement clock panel. I never really understood why that clock was there since there's one on the radio, and I added a trans temp gauge, Ram mount for my phone, and a USB charger/voltmeter. ^Renix and AMC Jeep logos added for flair ^Final version in ABS that I had to get creative with printing to stop it from warping. Came out with a really good surface finish. Using a purple glue stick really helped also, but almost too well, it was hard to remove from the glass plate.

Sent the axles off to get re geared last month, still waiting for him to finish. While I'm waiting, I pulled the front axle and mocked up some of the parts to measure things. I'm figuring 2" of bump should be plenty if I go up to 32s in the future with the Metalcloak upper stops. Comparison of the 4.5" MC coils next to the stock ones with 3" spacers (PO used 2.5" spacers with doubled spring isolators)

They're big, but not that big. You can fit an entire F-18 in there with the wings removed though. We had to do that in Guam after a bleed air system fire

I found a file on thingiverse for the dash clock panel, so I made a few modifications for it to fit better and added a hole for a trans temp gauge, but the gauge is just a little bit too long. I've never seen what's behind the dash, will I hit anything if I make a few holes in the dash behind this? Just so I don't hit any wires/HVAC/etc.

Since we're on the topic of wrench extenders, this tube I kept from the roof rack of an ill fated YJ. It's great for doing the axle bolts on my Golf TDI, the spec for those is 200Nm plus 180 degrees.

The Ghost of Kyiv probably isn't real, but For those who don't know, he's an unknown pilot rumored to have shot down 6 Russian aircraft so far, which if true would make him the 1st fighter ace in Europe since WW2

It's been 5 years since I left and my JK is still in the parking lot of the bricks in Beaufort

They use satellites and aircraft for images, so if it's not from directly above, it was probably taken by aircraft.

If you use the Euro date format, it's 22/02/2022 which is a palindrome and an ambigram