Parei_doll_ia

Not racing for now, though I do want to do some autocross, but I don't have the time or money currently. I've just been driving it around. It's completely stock except for the exhaust, and I don't feel the need to change anything.

so I got distracted by a lot of things. isn't ADHD fun? I'm also never on here anymore since I moved on to Miatas but here's the pod mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6250185

If you're coming here from the Cars and Bids auction: Don't ask questions about the truck here, ask them on the auction page and I will answer them there. My DMs are also closed here until the end of the auction. These are two threads I have made here that are also useful to understand some of the modifications to the truck. The 1st one is a write up that I made for the O2 sensor, and the 2nd explains how I repaired the EGR tube.

'13 JK '90 MJ '12 Golf TDI '08 WR250X '14 DR-Z400SM '01 XR100R '16 FZ-07 '18 Grom '22 Triumph Tiger Sport 660

I'll keep a look out, but it's probably in TJ by now. I always keep my hidden switch armed when I'm not near it, and I got lucky and found an apt with a gated garage.

Ignea is a good one The same song in English

There is, and it has a higher tow rating. It's not a true 4x4 though, it's added to the FWD transaxle like a Golf R

It's a light FWD truck which gives them more room for payload in the GVWR. The Gladiator is just heavy, and was always a compromise being built from a Wrangler.

Dex 3 was the spec for the older AW4s. I use Valvoline Dex/Merc

As soon as September ends: WAKE UPPPP

Bosch, NTK, Autozone, Chinese, doesn't matter. They all use the same metal bodied sensor that isn't supposed to be for the Renix, but it kinda halfassed fits the specs on paper. None of the ones you see advertised as a ceramic body will actually be one unless you find a NOS sensor. I used a AEM wideband and it's been working great all year and across the country. It's value engineering at its worst. There aren't enough of our trucks or vehicles with similar EFI systems around anymore, so they try to buy one sensor, and sell adapted versions that can "fit" multiple vehicles, but at a loss of performance. NTK held out the longest, but they probably ran out of an internal component that went EOL years ago.

I used .050" thick steel to form patches for mine. You can't see them from the outside, so they're very easy to make. I drilled a few holes in the bed side and did spot welds to hold it on, similar to how the factory did it. If they're too far gone, you might want to look for a new bed, or one to cut patches out of.

I think I used a 2000s Ranger latch on mine. It didn't have any screws, I just glued it on and was done.

I would also check the vacuum check valve near the coolant pressure bottle. I had the same issue on my cross country trip because the engine vacuum drops under higher throttle. I took a few check valves from the JY and eventually found one that sealed enough to hold vacuum and keep the ac blowing

$7k and it's only 750W nominal They can't even figure out how to list peak output correctly. For that much, you might as well spend 11k and get a KTM Freeride E-XC. https://super73.com/products/super73-r-brooklyn?color=blu-tang I've thought about getting this one, mainly because it matches my truck. $3500 and nominal output is 1200W in off road mode. I ended up selling the Grom because everything that I could do in this city on that, could be done on an ebike, and I bought a Triumph for daily hwy use.

Not really. I was pulling at its limit in high temperatures, there's no real way around it getting hot. I wasn't the only one having trouble on that mountain either. (It goes from sea level to 4200ft in just a few miles, 110F on one side and 70F on the other) Now that I'm unloaded, it drives like normal around 200 and the ac works great. I don't want to do this again though

Just got done taking a 5x8 Uhaul across the country. All that time I spent on the ac, and when I needed it the most (Oklahoma) it was overloading the cooling system so I couldn't use it. Spent a lot of time around 222-226 degrees but it made it. I ended up wrapping a 7lb bag of ice with a towel in OK and holding it in my lap for cooling. It was 105F out, and I could barely keep it at 60 in the 80 limit. The mountain in between El Centro and San Diego was the only time I ever had to stop because the needle went into the red. I entered Uranus in Missouri Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo I came across this sign at a rest stop in NM Stopped at the nuclear weapon museum in Albuquerque At the top of the mountain in Flagstaff Waiting for the truck to cool down in the mountains on I-8

Sure, go ahead. I just finished moving across the country with it, so it definitely works. It was cool watching the LTFTs go from 130 in Ohio, to 100 at 7k feet in Flagstaff, then back to 128 at sea level in San Diego

There is flush solvent that you blow through the system, but it's hard to find right now. I ended up flushing each line individually with non chlorinated brake cleaner (low residue), and flushed the evaporator with the 1 can of aerosol ac flush that I was able to find. Running a compressor with low oil risks blowing it, just like running an engine with no oil.

PAG is for r134, mineral is for r12, and ester is compatible with both, usually used when you don't want to clean the entire system when converting to r134. Some oil stays in the compressor, but it is held in suspension in the refrigerant throughout the system. Depending on what component you replace/how much refrigerant you lost, you have to add oil. When in doubt, flush everything and add the normal amount of oil. Too much oil reduces the efficiency of the system.

I bought a bottle of PAG oil that had dye in it, I'm sure they have mineral oil with the same. You can also buy dye on its own and add it, I don't think it cares what refrigerant you add it to.

I would take everything apart and check/clean the threads. All it takes is one blown o-ring, and it is possible for an o-ring to seem fine at low pressure, but leak at operating pressure. Go to Harbor Freight and get the HNBR o-ring kit, that has all the different sizes you need. As far as I know the HNBR seals work with r12 too, the main reason for using them when using r134 is because r134 operates at higher pressures than r12. Freeze 12 is not r12, it's just a HCFC that is compatible with r12. The condensers are cheap on Rockauto, I just got an UAC for $60. The discharge and suction lines are the only ones I could find replacements for, but I was able to re use all my lines. If you do need the liquid or vapor lines, they have to be custom made. Replacing the drier and expansion valve is the bare minimum when the system has been open to the atmosphere for an extended period. The next time you fill it, put some UV dye in so you can find the leak with a black light.