89 MJ

I’d do a skim coat of rtv. No way am I trusting a gasket alone to take up 30 years worth of possible corrosion or warping on the block, nor am I trusting today’s manufacturing processes to give me a decent finish.

I’ll second checking out the slave cylinder. I bet that is starting to leak. If it looks dry, you should be able to bleed it again and that should cure it. But that fluid is definitely going somewhere. To make sure it isn’t the master leaking, just take a look at the paint underneath the master cylinder. Brake fluid will eat the paint, so it’ll be wrinkly if it’s leaking.

Probably since you found another the same color with the same code. That’s Chrysler reusing codes

Glad you got it taken care of and it sounds like you’ve got a good plan going forwards.

It usually takes a few days for the members that are able to run the VINs to see these. @jdog, @JMO413

I think the aftermarket sliding rear windows are superior to the OEM ones. The opening is larger, so you can enter through it if needed and it moves so much more air when going down the road with it open.

Ok. Did they load test it or just hook up a regular tester? I'd hate to say that there must be a draw somewhere in the system causing this issue and it turn out to be the battery. I think its worth going through and finishing up Cruiser's tips (maybe once it warms up a little). If this issue is only when its cold, maybe it is the MAT or CTS like eaglescout526 suggested in this thread:

Glad you got it figured out!

I hate to break it to you, but Cruiser passed away in May of last year. To answer your question, the high idle after the tire change would be completely random, unless a vacuum line was bumped in the process. Start with cleaning the TB and adjusting the tips, per Cruiser’s instructions and double checking your vacuum connections. Maybe start with the CAD because that’s near the wheels.

There was no Grand Cherokee in 89. That Grand Cherokee didn’t come out until 93.

Those GTOs are really cool. I’d love to have one as a daily someday. 04 since it doesn’t have the scoops on the hood? That make it a 5.7 too?

I can’t remember if you got the battery tested or not, but that points me to believe that your battery is either going bad or doesn’t have enough cranking amps. My truck sat through two, potentially three, winters (November-March) with the battery hooked up and no charger on it and it would start fine in the spring. I’ve since started remembering to unhook the battery, but the battery has been in there since 2019 and hasn’t needed charged. My battery is also an AC Delco and I think all parts store batteries are junk. In terms of the starting issue, I’m thinking pizzaman might be correct being that it sometimes will start after rolling the truck forward. Maybe start with cruiser’s tips and go from there.

Out of curiosity, why did you throw the battery charger on it? It should be able to sit for weeks without needing a charge and it will still start.

I don’t think the soapy water test would work for the exact reason you mentioned. However, if you give all of your vacuum connections a little shot of brake cleaner while the engine is running, that’ll help you find vacuum leaks because the rpms will jump.

I think this tan color. Definitely one of my favorite MJ colors.

Depends on the part and the year of the Grand Cherokee. Body and interior parts are a no. Some mechanical parts and front suspension parts will interchange.

Noise cancellation is awesome in public places like airports or libraries. You can still here some stuff, but most of the just annoying noise is gone.

That turned out very well

What did this process look like? How’d you get the ceramic on the header? I was always under the impression that the ceramic coating was similar to powder coating. I did do a similar curing process when I used header paint on my Eagle.

Good luck on the hunt!

Thank you! They are very beefy looking. And they also have brackets that bolt underneath the bed and bolt to the frame. Jeep called them sport bars because they didn’t want the liability of people using them as roll bars and not being strong enough, but I think one would keep a person safe in a low speed rollover. Or at the very least, give the people in the truck time to escape.

Here’s a few pics of the roll bar since you said that one picture is acting up.

The roll bar is absolutely the way to go. Pete has a good point by saying you should learn what they look like and then just do generic searches for one. I’d also keep my eyes out for a cheap MJ with a roll bar and buy the whole truck. Someday I’d like to reproduce them, but that’s a couple of years down the road.

I looked for either a factory sport bar or a correct topper for my MJ four a couple of years and never found one. I gave up and put a tonneau cover on my truck instead. A few months later, I owned both a topper and a sport bar. Moral of this story: don’t look too hard. One will turn up, you just need to be ready to jump on it when it does. And it’s not uncommon for them to need rust repair.

Nothing like taking an already daunting task and making it even more difficult