89 MJ

My MJ does not have a TPMS light on the dash.

I wonder. Shall we bring our MJs there to test the theory?

If you go faster, you'll float over it. LOL

It is all washed and I started to put it back together. I forgot pictures though.

Looks like you needed more power!!!!

I think that would be infringing on MiNi. It is a good one though!

Thanks Pete! I added it!

What year is your truck? Is it green?

It's going to make it a pretty truck!

Not going to lie, that's hilarious. Why not take an MJ though?

Give AMC Salvage a quick search on Google. I see a truck that looks familiar. Anyone else recognize that truck? I know at least one other member here does!

Added. Thank you!

This truck keeps getting less and less for sale the more I drive it. They make great daily drivers. I am thinking that possibly this winter or next spring I might get a set of rock sliders for it and I want to pick up a topper so I will be able to do some overlanding/camping with it.

Ok. Then yes, I think $1,000 seems very fair. I would still recommend buffing the paint on the rest of the truck though. It will get in shined up very well.

Gotcha. Why do you want to paint your truck? If I were you I would look at Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) to fix most of the dents, patch the rust and blend the new paint from the rust into the old paint on the body, remove the decals, buff the paint on the truck, and reapply the decals. I think you would be very impressed with the results. Plus I think the truck would be more valuable as a mostly original survivor with mostly original paint. Just my 2 cents.

Uuuuggggghhhh. I need to find a rollbar for mine.

To kinda add on to what Pete has said, These trucks really don't need much to be a pretty solid wheeler. I have about a 3 inch lift on mine with 31s. I also have a friend with a JT on 37s. I'm pretty sure my truck has a better breakover angle than hers. I would love to upgrade to 33s on my truck, but I worry the gas mileage would go in the toilet, plus I would need to do a bunch more work to it, and to me, its not worth it. If I were to build a truck to bomb around in the woods, it would get a 3 or 4 inch lift, 31s, a front winch bumper with a winch, a limited slip rear differential and a set of rock sliders.

Is this including paint too? What brand of paint/primer and body filler do they use? Is the truck getting stripped or are they just going to do the bodywork over the existing paint? Is a reputable shop doing this work? Even if that quote is just for labor, you either have a nearly perfect truck to begin with, or the work is not going to be the best.

Hmmmmmmm....... Well, to do it right, you will need to have some money in metal, we will assume $100 for metal. Then, you will need primer. I bought high quality primer with the reducer and hardener for $400. I recommend getting some sandblasting done, which then will need weld-through primer, let's figure $100 for that. So, with all of that, you are at $400, without paint or sealer. Paint cost for my truck was $250 per gallon. Clear was $400 per gallon. Sand paper was $100 And I have about 400 hours in bodywork/rust repair on my truck. Even if you figure that at minimum wage ($7.25 per hour in WI), you get $2,900. But that was making my truck absolutely perfect. So, my total, if I paid myself for labor would be $4,150. Most bodyshops are $65+ per hour though around me.

New fuel pump installed. He also replaced the brake lines. Now just needs to fix a rusty fuel line.

The first part has pretty much been our district.

Sorry for your loss.

That must have been breath taking.

That is beautiful!