eaglescout526

Like how we have XJ and MJ and such. That’s the code for the Dakota.

The dash still looks stick to that model year.

Only the TBI injected years for the 2.5L will work. You probably could get away with using similar construction of tubing.

96-02 for the AN Dakota. TJs should have it too. There are no new ones left.

Bucket seats and power everything could be had from the factory. If there’s a VIN I can look up the build sheet and can see if it was ever a swap or factory.

Actually that front broken piece is supposed to have a line that connects to that and goes to the evap canister. Mine was broken for forever until I found a new Renix lid.

Damn. I really need to remember to take pictures of my progress. But I forget and am excited. All the sanding is done except for the upper half of the drivers side door. Once the passenger side is all good and painted, then the drivers side will be sanded and finished in one shot. Good news is there was not a single ounce of bondo anywhere on the body. Bad news is there is some body damage that just minor dents that were fixed using a stud welder and some bondo to fill in. Otherwise all rust has been addressed which there hardly was any for an AZ truck. Now to fix the tail gate and get that done up too.

*X1 -H9 3LY ADL PACKAGE - 4X4 PROTECTION AGJ Driver Assistance Group APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE BCQ Battery - 750 Amp Maintenance Free CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GSC MIRROR - RIGHT BLACK HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP K60 BODY SIDE MOLDINGS - VINYL LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NHQ Transmission Heater PS4 BRIGHT PLATINUM METALLIC CLEAR COAT QS4 BRIGHT PLATINUM CLEAR COAT RAF Radio - AM/FM Cassette SBA POWER STEERING SCE STRG WHL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE WJN 15" Aluminum Wheels Build Date 2/7/88(Close enough) Body Code JM61

*X1 -Y1 3LR APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAE EMISS CONTROL TESTING &&&&&&&& LABEL NMB ENGINE COOLING - STANDARD DUTY PA2 SILVER MET CLEAR CT PRIMARY PAINT - FA2 QA2 SILVER MET CLR CT SECONDARY PAINT - FA2 SBA POWER STEERING TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT TBL TIRE CARRIER - INSIDE WMC BASE WHEEL DRESS - UP (INCLS TRIM RING) Build Date 6/1/87 Body Code JL61

I would try charging it before the water and see if it has any volts

Sometimes batteries can unexpectedly die or fail if they have been used for testing too much. If it is the liquid type you could probably get away with topping it off with distilled water and let it trickle charge. Do you have a volt meter of any kind to see if it still has any volts?

How new is the battery?

Lol. Like this?

If we are on the topic of the actual manual crank regulators, I would like to say they don't. They look to different. But might be useful for parts. But give it a shot. Be mindful, no one is making these anymore. Actually. Studying that image makes me wonder if that twist is a flexible tube of some sorts that if straightened could match the same length of the front regulator.

I say if it seems funky to you, I would check for some play in the steering components like the track bar.

Check the ground and if it is intermittent wipers, unplug the black box module/governor and plug the two ends together and see if you have wipers. If not then the motor could be bad or need regrease or the linkage bushings fell apart. So there’s a few things to check.

Use the snipping tool to capture stuff. That’s how I snag stuff from the catalogue when I look up parts.

That’s a good idea. I thought about JB welding those clips into place just so they never move again. As for the Bendix, if that is still made at all that would be awesome to still get them. Those should be the original ones AMC used.

Well. The drivers side bed took me the whole weekend to sand. Got the decal removed with that rubber eraser for the drill. Dropped the trans and fixed my slave cylinder issue. Hate these things and how they pop out. I should be good for a while. Now what sucks is one of my fog lamps glass broke, so replacing that glass is like replacing a Marchal. Anyways the progress shall continue without this trans hiccup.

Can a Bendix one still be had though?

I wonder who 80995 is?

If any manu info it probably may be a vendor number somewhere on the part number tag. Even then that’s something I would have to call Chrysler for. I might have to get a luk slave cyl but money of course had to be tight at the moment so I had to go with the crown. There’s an upside to my current issue, this allows me to replace the rear main seal as I’m sure it is 30 years old and I was having an oil leak issue on the free way a while back

Which brands are garbage, hit or miss and worth the money? Course the slave cylinder is a flawed set up to begin with. Luk seems to be good and worth your money if you have some laying around. Probably should buy them more often but they are more expensive outside of the clutch kit if your clutch is in fine shape or just replaced. Crown will get you out a bind but is a hit or miss(crown one just failed me after installing it back on June 17th. Noted in my build) Napa is like the crown. I think the crown failed the same way this one did, line popped out of the cylinder causing fluid loss. Any others to note for their quality?

Nope. It’s already there. Just swap out the pulley for the pump when you go to install it all.

If you can find the parts, I would do so. There’s also no need to hunt down a special power steering bracket. The 2.5L should already have it as a idler pulley closest to the TB. That’s where the power steering pump goes.