eaglescout526

And be here tomorrow, it's only coming from Florida I guess its a damn good thing flights for him are gonna be cheap. Lol.

Better be to me in person on a platinum platter if I'm gonna pay that much to have it shipped. Better be made out of gold too.

Yeah ill take on the voodoo of cruise control.

No actually. It was listed as AMC Jeep Renault cruise control but I was just searching under AMC Jeep and a few things came up that normally wouldn't pop up and that was one of them.

Lol I couldn't believe it when I stumbled upon it too!

You guys won’t believe what I found on eBay for $50

So I went out today and helped @AMC86Kid with installing his tranny and t-case, wasn't too bad or hard of a job and we all know I'm good at dropping and installing a transmission lol. Anyways I went out to help him and getting the tranny in was pretty easy. Took a couple times and some wooden boards as shims to get the trans to mate with the engine, what I did like about his set up was you could sit on your bum he had the truck up high which was nice and made moving the trans to line it up easy. Ok that's the trans. T-case was a whole new level of fun. Per the FSM and anywhere really, you install the trans and t-case as a unit. I agreed with him on why he had the two divorced, really was easy. But what gets me is theres soooo many damn linkages to the 207 that I told myself, yeahhhhh no, adding 4 wheel drive looks daunting. Maybe I'm talking crazy after a long afternoon of helping him but I did indeed have fun. His MJ is gonna look and be really fun when he is done. As for the turn signals, yeah I stuffed some aluminum foil onto a fuse years ago and never addressed the issue as repairing the terminals is a daunting task but I now have to address it as the fuses are getting hot and partially melting, kinda scary. Evidently I can miss a lot in eight hours too.

Well I learned I do not want to add 4 wheel drive ever and I now have to replace the metal contacts in the fuse block for the turn signal section....yay.....

There are not any gaskets. Perhaps the pump wiggled free just enough to cause such an issue.

I didn't. I have Tan interior for my 84.

No problem. In my sig is the body style decode pdf if you are curious as to what the letters mean.

VIN decodes it as a short bed as JMO posted. the body code would be JL62 if it was a long bed. Short beds are denoted by 61. Looks good!

Well yes. Those years are plug and play, there’s just the speedo discrepancy to be mindful of. And the tach for the earlier years isn’t adjustable so if you have the 2.5L and the cluster came from a 2.8 you can’t adjust it. I just don’t want anyone going and plugging and playing cluster swap and not having things work like they want it to. That’s all.

That's ok, if you guys think the ZJ pioneer thing is bad get a load of this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-93-94-95-AMC-JEEP-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE-XJ-MJ-TACHOMETER-DASH-GAUGE-CLUSTER/254532387907?hash=item3b43500443:g:k~AAAOSwLrNeYYCV Listed as 91-95 XJ but yet it has a analog speedo connection and it is for the 84-86 years.

Thank you Eagle!

Neat, could've swore in the catalog it said Canada only right off to the side. Course I don't have access to it so I can't confirm it. Still nonetheless neat and obviously a rare ZJ.

I don't know, kinda like it. Looks cleaner and less likely to tear and its readily available.

It is an exhaust hose. There is a vac switch right at the intake of the air box that shuts a door and allows the exhaust to send warm air into the intake rather than draw from the freezing cold air upon initial startup and warming of the engine.

You can add 84-90 clusters. From 84- early 87 they used the type one speedo connection that consisted of a clip on the speedo. Then there's the type two speedo from late 87-90 that only consisted of clipping on and being pinched for removal. XJ's and MJ's used the same style cluster. 84-86 had a type I tach that you can't adjust and the 87-90 had a type II adjustable tach. You will need to add oil and coolant sensors not sending units. Sending units is for what you have now dubbed the idiot light cluster.

No problem. I was about to post my thoughts on there but I only have what I said, just heat up the outside where the bushing sits and give em hell. There is a special tool designed to remove those bushings but they are stupid expensive.

Also looks like that dealer did their homework on the MJ. One thing from what they said bother me like "incorporating a bed onto the Cherokees unibody design was no easy feat". Yes that is true but it got its own special "Uniframe". Any ways here's their description. I will leave it to you guys to be the judge. RARE CLASSIC! This Comanche XLS is newly refinished in its original Medium Red Metallic color ZERO rust -solid panels. The special XLS cloth bucket seat interior has been restored to its original condition including carpeting and headliner. A tubular roll bar with off road lights has been added to the truck as well as custom alloy wheels and off road tires. Custom bumpers front and rear add to the appearance. The 1986 Jeep Comanche 4X4 was a pickup truck spinoff of AMC's popular Jeep Cherokee compact SUV. Impressive as an engineering achievement (incorporating a cargo bed into the Cherokee's unibody construction was no small feat). This Comanche has the 2.8 liter GM 60-Degree V6., 5-speed transmission with a shift on the fly Command Trac 4X4 set up. This truck has a CLEAN CARFAX 3 OWNER HISTORY.

I don't see anything wrong with the seats. I am pretty sure that's how some of the early bucket covers used to be.

I would be careful and only heat up the surrounding area and hammer out the whole bushing. If you plan to use poly bushings(not a smooth ride) then you will need to burn out the old rubber and slip in the poly. If you want to use OE style rubber bushings in the future, you'll have hell of a time fighting trying to get the old metal sleeves out that sat and seized in place for 30+ years.

No, later models might have that but the Renix era does not. The only idler pulley is the one right by the Alt. I remember going through something like this once, except I wasn't driving I was at home still. But my issue ended up being that nut at the bottom. If the whole pump assembly isn't free moving right now, then something still isn't loose. In order to tension the belt, all the bolts have to be loose and then the tensioner(the long bolt underneath the pump closest to the air box) can be tightened to increase tension on the belt. If still no movement you can always give the pump a love tap with a mallet(rubber).

Ok, so that is the typical AC-less set up for the 2.5L. Now you have three bolts for the PS pump loosened right? Two right behind the pulley and the other on the back? Then there should be the two down below the pump. One secures the adjuster in place and the other tighten or loosens the belt. If that bolt that secures the tensioner is still secured the pump won't move with it.