eaglescout526

When I did my JK shocks I pressed out all the metal sleeves in the shocks. The only thing I had to change was the bushing on were the tops of the rear shocks as they went on better but I applied some grease and used a big clamp to press the bottoms on. As far as metal on metal contact, I wouldn't do it but I also don't see any harm in doing it but it just makes installation easier on yourself than trying to fight with the metal and shaving it to fit right.

I actually thought about this as soon as I was able to view the JT in the parts catalog. Looked like it would require a good amount of fabbing to put it on. I thought about the JT shocks too. I think the problem I have with using them is the eyelets look a tad bit too small for the mounts and they wouldn't sit snug as you tightened down the nut and you would also have to remove the metal tubes in the bushings if you wanted them to fit on the bar and rear mounts.

I will address my parts catalog and get back to this one here in a bit.

Like when you do the @ someone you actually have to select their name from the drop down menu otherwise they will never know they were mentioned in a topic. Example: @jdog name selected @jdog name not selected

Yes the parts catalog shows that it routes to the main vac harness(behind the TB, looks like it is missing) to the air cleaner. The front routes to the bottom of the TB. 86 is an interesting animal for the 2.5L. 87-90 are flopped. The front routes to the air box while the back goes to the bottom of the TB.

I wonder why this didn't work for you when you @ me? Maybe you didn't select. Anyways. One of two things, it should still go to the bas of the TB or it routes to the air box. I think it routes to the air box, there should be a diagram on the firewall that shows hose routing for the engine. I will check my parts book and see.

Pop off the little tray or the 4wd plate depending on which and there will be a screw there. Once removed the console will be free.

Wow. Mustve sold that fast. Wouldn't surprise me.

The early Second Gen Hemi's don't seem to have many engine problems, its the later ones that do with the lifters and the cams. Otherwise before the Fiat buyout and before Chrysler LCC the mid millennium had some good Ram trucks.

Nice score but for some reason this bothers me. I don't know if it is the picture, but it looks like the original link is beefier and longer than new.

I won. Got all the broken bolts drilled out. Was able to beat two with a big flat head and remove them from the threads with little metal was left. The last bugger had been broken for so long that I had to fight and rethread that one in the end and use a bigger bolt which is fine. Now if I ever got a hitch to go along nicely with my wiring kit, I could with peace of mind, mount it and tow. Also broke four drill bits in the process.

No. That code would've been used in 2003. Kind sucks that our MJ's never saw an anniversary milestone while in production. Almost with 93 for the 50th.

Looks like you got a full length factory running boards. Nice. Someone will provide you with a build date and sheet.

I know on the manual windows it is a rubber tube. I would imagine that the felt is similar to an electrical motor that has self lubricating pads inside to keep the shaft and other parts lubricated.

Yes. It is a perfect match.

Did you lube the snake for the regulator? Also I have been reading this for a while. Well done. I feel your pain on all the wiring behind the D-side kick panel. These just so much going on over there you could easily get lost in that mess.

Man, it kills me to not be doing this. Thank you jdog! Do we expect to see a build thread sometime soon?

Yeahhhhh I have never seen an American Renault in my life and probably never will. When the U.S. did cash for clunkers, people probably got rid of them as soon as they could. Much like how we can't find many Renix era Jeeps any more.

Damn. Still wish I had my original Renix coil.

None of us Renix guys have probably never ever seen anything plugged in there. We do know(Those who know who they are) that if you plug in the underhood light power plug, the entire system will turn on but not crank or start but would keep everything running when you turn off the truck.

No....sadly I can not get up there due to this damn virus so I can't even attend to the XJ until this thing blows over. I sent a new glass up there already and is at my girlfriends house ready to be installed.

I need a set of these. Wouldve never thought to 3d print those. Nonetheless great work!

Not Nutmeg sadly. It is very very tempting though.

Hella has a wiring kit included with their lights. All you’ll need to do is just wire in the factory switch at the headlight harness.

Jdog is right. I planned on snagging one of those keyless entry pieces to put a little module in for future keyless entry.