Smokeyyank

Pass......steering is a fickle mistress and RC isn't going to be the standout company worth spending money on. What are you running on your current set up? Most times a ZJ or solid tie rod is enough.

Welcome and good find! For the harness you got 2 routes. Upgrade to a 97 xj+; advantages are better connectors, obd II, and parts more readily available. Disadvantage it's a lot of work. Or Swap in another renix era harness. Advantages; not as involved as a 97+. Disadvantage you're still going through a decent amount if work for little gain, connectors could be a problem. Axle if you're already planning to swap I'd find a non CAD d30. Plus the 96+ have bigger u joints. No, not only is CC an awesome forum full of tons of knowledge but there are plenty of write ups on swapping to a 4wd and so on. Anyone with some basic mechanical aptitude can easily wrench on a 4.0.

I'm running the mammoth wheels that pete just mentioned on my WJ. I like them and was able to pick them up for $100 a piece on sale. These are the charcoal

I had it done on mine when I replaced the windshield a few months ago. Not a lot to it but I'm assuming you're going to have to put new glass in. Not sure about doing it with out that part.

IIRC a 86 is going to be a lot of work. Not simply pulling and dropping a driveline. You'll have to swap the harness and not sure about motor mounts. In any case you can swap something else in there will just vary on how much work it will take.

Proper Prep and a clean area to work in are HUGE! Honestly if you want it look semi decent it takes a lot of work. It will make or break your results. The paint is only going to be as good as the surface you spray it on. So if you outside and stuffs blowing everywhere it will be impossible to get a good paint job. You don't need to have a fancy booth but a sealed off work area and limited positive airflow are key. Also you'll need to be mindful of the temp and humidity. Basics are going to be...... Repairing/replacing any old rust. If you're going to be welding in patch panels take your time because you can warp the metal. Sand off all the old clear coat. You don't need to bring it to bare metal(except wherever you're welding) but need to get rid of the clear along with any old decals or old glue. Once you got the bones right you're gonna need to put filler in the necessary spots. For the any patches you'll need a heavier filling bondo. Try to keep it around 1/8th of an in no more than a 1/4. Any small areas a skim coat is sufficient. Then it's just sand, fill repeat until its smooth and level. So assuming you got all the rust areas fixed, dings gone and a smooth surface you're going to mask anywhere you don't want paint. Remove the parts the you can to make life easier. Getting some good masking tape makes a world of difference. Once its masked you're ready to shoot primer. First should be a good fill primer. Probably 1-2 coats. Then block sanding everything to nice and smooth. If you notice any areas that are wavy or need some more body filler touch those up any repeat with primer sand again until smooth. Once you have a good base of filler primer and have block sanded move on to a thinner finish primer. Again spray a coat block sand. You'll need to be moving up in grit. Make sure to keep the surface clean and not letting dust sit around. Now you're ready to paint. Make sure to put and inline dryer and proper pressure regulator. Temp, humidity, paint and tons of other little variables go into how you'll mix it. Once it's in the gun focus on spraying in long, light coats. Try to limit your wrist movement and focus on just moving your arm. Once you have 2 coats down. Move on to wet sanding with a block moving to a higher grit 800-1000ish. Spray 2-3 more light coats wet/block sand again moving up again. Finish up around 2k grit. Once your paint is down and its smooth final part is clear. Same as above for paint but clear isn't as forgiving for runs. Spray and wet sand. 2-3 coats is all you'll need. Wax it up and enjoy the shine! If you want to cut steps it's the block sanding. That really adds the depth and smoothness to the finish. The rest you really can't cut corners or simplify unless you go with a 1 stage paint.

Fiat........ https://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/chrysler/2019/08/10/jeep-death-wobble-fix/1969368001/

Agree. HO is more work but done right is a killer setup for a daily.

Good find! Will be excited to see what you do with them

I saw those the other day. Really tempted to jump on those.

HAHAHA! Yep. But kidding aside that is ugly AF.

100% BS. Just having some fun.

DIY supercharger!

So much this. I learned if there is someone that I absolute hate and want to spam the crap out of put their info in and let the madness ensue.

Uship is a joke. All they are is a broker and charge a fortune plus when they damage things is next to impossible to hold anyone accountable. When I shipped my X5 from AZ to CO I used a local guy that ran a route that went form CO, NV, CA and AZ. You can post a want ad on CL and go that route. Other idea is calling to a bigger car dealer in the area and ask them if they know any that hauls vehicles. Since most of those dealers are transporting vehicles to and from auction they are bound to have some connections. They are probably going to take a cut i.e charging you $550 but the cost of shipping is $450 type deal.

It's probably the same people that thought Donk was cool......

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c2396&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c5641&zip=80127&distance=50000&searchChanged=true&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=244679183

That is an amazing MJ.......

That place is pretty sweet. Been a looonnnggg time since I've been there.

I eventually need to get the lunchbox in and new ironman diff cover on. Once I save my pennies, I'll get a front winch bumper so I can mount the winch I have. Otherwise just tinkering with things here and there.

Well it's been a while....not a whole lot to report other than I finally got a free weekend to work on somethings. One of the things I've been wanting to do was freshen up the headlights. They've been rough and at night can't see $h*t especially in the mountains where there is already limited light. Process was pretty easy and I like the results.

Huh, interesting. I will try this out and see.

Looking for more of this style.

Alright, so I'm trying to figure out how to add a patina finish to some metal artwork I have. It's a world map that is cut out of steel. I tried using the metal master kit and it's not working how id like. I've googled what to do and keep coming up with more questions. So see if any of you all might have a better idea since this place has a plethora of knowledge. I can post some pics later. Https://www.homedepot.com/p/Modern-Masters-Metal-Effects-Blue-Patina-Paint-Oxidizing-Finish-Kit-204337/206483617?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D24|Multi|NA|PLA|All_Paint_Smart|71700000048001153|58700004793621602|92700041080546059&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0eieNh8SF1hHZE6RqLYNUJ1qwlYDsequ80eyD3NjZxRPmBQNgnKoctQaArnQEALw_wcB

HAHAHHA Jeep people never cease to amaze me......especially those unibody folk. We get $h*t done. Back to the issue. You can check fuel pressure on the Schrader valve to easily check a fuel issue. Obviously have a towel handy so you're not spraying gas everywhere. On my wifes KJ it had similar symptoms before it crapped out. Otherwise heat soak could be the culprit.