Smokeyyank

Good choice ditching the turdy5. I was just looking at the gear calc. With 5.13's you'll be around 2700rpm trying to hit 65. 4.88's you'll be about 2500rpm. Obviously 5.13's are going to get you the low end grunt but you'll be howling on the highway. Another idea http://www.northwestfab.com/NWF-BlackBox-Underdrive_c_7.html More money but you can run less gear in the axles and get a nice crawl ratio.

Guessing you're sticking with stock axles? If so what rear are you running? First check out grimmjeeper gear calculator. It will give you a good idea of rpms at speed, etc. 5.13s will give you the most umph by at the sacrafice of highway speed. Also you're putting a lot of strain on the r&p with that deep of gear and tire size. It can be done though. Just no mashing the skinny pedal. Since you're missing 2 cylinders 5.13 s might be the best for 35 s. 33s 4.88 s would work great.

OEM is about 7 and if you want to maintain on roadability then staying close to that will be ideal. A little more definitely helps. Additional castor beyond factory spec can help with wandering issues with larger tires and helps steering return to "center", but too much can results in heavier steering. If you're not running any type of assist I'd go for 8-10*

Gotcha, well if you are going to swap in some motor mounts I'd look at Stinkyfab.

So you're saying you snapped the bracket at the unibody that actually attaches to it? I don't know of anyone that makes HD frame mounts. Only motor mounts and engine plates.

Not my info but just something I have bookmarked about link set ups from people waaaayyyy smarter than me. Upper Links: The upper link in a 3 link suspension can be difficult. Regarding length, there are some old and new rules of thumb. In the past, it was recommended to make the length 75% of the lower link length. Yes, this will keep your suspension geometry consistent during travel, but it can also cause the pinion angle to aim downward as the suspension droops. Instead, making the upper link the same length as the lowers (or even slightly longer) will allow the pinion to roll up along with the droop. Overall, equal length keeps the driveshaft alive and is especially useful for rigs with short wheelbases and/or driveshafts, or for low-pinion front applications. It doesn't really matter if the upper arm is a little longer than the lower arms. I don't see it being 8" longer just because of the mounting place on the axle. The frame side mount should be further forward than the lower mounts, pretty easy to do if the upper mount is inside the frame. Put the arms where they fit the best, if they're as level as possible it will be fine. If you want to see how much pinion rotation you'll have with different arm lengths and placement, just draw it on the garage floor with chalk and use a couple pieces of string or something to draw arcs of movement with chalk, then mark vertical axle travel in inches and draw a line to the arc and you'll be able to see exactly what pinion rotation you'll have throughout you travel with a particular setup. After you do that, you'll find that it doesn't matter much, but you'll feel better, and feel smarter.

Yep, will only run the OEM 195 temp.

Right on, DIY as in....?

Never said they didn't work. They do work and work well. Issue is losing clearance.

Damn jeeps. Damn kids. Just when you think your on track..... I haven't built mine yet...clearly, but I do like to dream about the "if I was doing it tomorrow what would I do". At first when I got my MJ I was like let's cut this b*@ch up make a sweet truggy, got a bunch of parts to start building then I started to kind of like just driving it as is. 4 links rear are awesome and if you wheel it should be a nice choice. I've decided I'll never wheel my MJ, they are just too unique and mines in decent enough shape that I'd rather just have a restomod pavement pounder. I'll be keeping leafs but if you can link it go for it! Before my wife decided she was better at spending my money than I was I had this beast. I'll admit I cheated and bought it with most everything done, especially the body work, but the price was so good I just couldn't justify restoring the other one I had.

Work properly......Long arm that sucka. 5" on short arms is pushing it. You can put on control arm drop brackets but kind of defeats the purpose of lifting it. You plannig on running adjustable uppers? I'd also ditch cRustys they make junk. And the JK arms need to be rear uppers.

Titties..... Ill be interested to hear what you think of the iron man 4 link. I think there's and Stinkyfab are bad @$$. Only thing I wasnt huge on the iron man was the amount of bolts for the the tranny pan.

Nice work man. At first I saw the MJ and was like WTF, but you've been doing some quality stuff. Keep it coming, thing is gonna look sweet.

Yes. Only major difference is mounting, TJ's are coils we are leafs.

For the amount you'll spend on a semi decent OTK or 1 ton you're better off spending more and going with a WJ swap if you want a true upgrade. Really all you are doing with most of the "kits" is polishing a turd. Stock geometry on XJ/MJ's sucks along with the brakes. You're not going to reap a lot of benefits and really you're best bet if you don't want to shell out cash is going with a solid tie rod with fresh TRE's and moving on. As for the Hiems or TRE question. If you are driving on the street TRE's will be better. Hiems are nice but they ride like crap. Only hiems worth a $#!& are these. They are stupid expensive but amazingly good. https://www.emfrodends.com/ The stinkyfab tierod is awesome. Aluminum but that thing takes a beating and bounces right back.

Only up to 95 IIRC and you need to get them from a 2 door.

Solid tie rod along with stock goemetry is what If go with. WJ swap is really the only legit upgrade to improve tour geometry and gives you better brakes but its not cheap.

Ill admit I'd rock it. Definitely seen worst hack jobs.

Short answer, no they aren't. Stick with trying to find 97-99. Those are going to be the best take off axles.

If you're going through the hassle of swapping Id look for 97-99 axles. Dana 35 isnt even a useful boat anchor. The D30 will have the bigger u joints and the 8.25 is a great axle. You can swaps on to disc or you can find one out of a KJ.

Cool, good luck with it!

All I say after I tried to install a new back window is pay someone to do. I'm willing to do just about anything on anything, but after trying it once and fn it up I'll pay the $50-70 bucks for someone else to come out a do it right. If you haven't done a window before it's kind of a PITA.