Smokeyyank

Any story behind why? Just checking out napa. For the price might as well go blingy adjustable. Roughly $470ish for all new fronts and rear lower. I priced moogs out on RA and was about $210ish.

Not for the MJ but since this is a decent upgrade for them I want to ask. What are the best stock WJ control arms? Reason I'm asking is I'm building up my WJ and need to replace them. I've always had good luck with Moog and think they make decent stuff. Fast forward to today and I'm seeing that anything with "RK" in the part number means it's lower quality. From what I can tell on Moogs website the "RK" is the only series for the WJ control arms. Thoughts?

Nope no codes. It's sponatious when it goes goofy.

So I was looking for the IAC and am I missing something because I can't find it. I was reading some more and it was mentioned that 07 does not have an IAC? My only thought is it might be in the throttle assembly pictured below.

Long arms for sure. Budget is next. How much you want to spend? You swapping axles or keeping what you have? What size rubbers? There isnt a "best" kit but you can price together what your version of best is. Stinkyfab 3 link or ironman4x4 4 link are some awesome set ups. Coils and leafs will depend on budget. Get fancy and go deavers/alcan or Bastard pack the rear or add some 53 or 62 chevy springs. Coils Iro, clayton a other I can't remember.

Why that high.......

I don't know what you all think is so wrong with an aluminum housing......it's lighter duh! And a 44 is so much stronger. Being said with complete sarcasm.........

I won't be able to look at it until this weekend. I'm in the mountains and shes back in Denver.

Spal is just the company that makes the electric fans. They aren't cheap but they work. If your not going to fab a fan shroud..... http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/dirtbound-fan-shroud-upgrade-10-fan.html

You can "upgrade" your aux fan to the 10 bade fan on the 97+ and add in a manual override. I did that on my XJ and was a nice option on the trial. Since the aux fan kicks on at 220 or something silly it was nice to have the option to flick it on when there wasn't a lot of airflow. Personally I wouldn't delete the mechanical fan, they are insurance if your aux fan kicks the bucket. You can put the ZJ fan clutch on there but it's loud. From hanging around the NAXJA guys it's either going spal or keeping the stockish setup.

Yep same key. I'll start with giving the IAC a good clean and see if that helps. Thanks for the info.

My wifes 07 KJ is having an issue starting. When you start it will immediately die. Doesn't do consintently or have any bearing on being hot or cold. Was reading and thinking it could be the IAC. Wondering if anyone else might now what could be the issue?

Wire wheel will scratch them. Since You're dealing with oxidization you need to give them a solid deep clean and polish. Or just say f it and paint them or leave them. If you want to clean them up it will take some time. I recommened this stuff. Pricey but works amazing. https://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-plum-whee-cleaner/

Brake booster and master cylinder would work, but rest no, because as stated entirely different.

Still not worth it IMHO. There's more than just pulling stuff on and swapping it over. WJ swaps on the D30 aren't even close to bolt on. You'll still need to source the better calipers that where on the later models 02-04 (akebono). Re drill brake rotors for the correct pattern. Track bar will need to be re positioned along with sway bar links.

Nope there where a few of the V8's that had the selctrac option. I'm currently trying to find one for my WJ. They aren't as available as a 247 but they are out there. I get it, I'm not saying a WJ is the best drivetrain out there but from talking with people the 545rfe isn't that bad. It's definitely not something I would try to swap into anything.

If you want to do a WJ swap you'll need a new D30 (unless you already swapped to a non cad) as the CAD axle is useless for that swap. The WJ D30 will be longer as runs CVs instead of u joints and I'm pretty sure is low pinion. Rear axle isn't great on them. Tranny IMHO is fine, 545rfe, its the 4.0 with the 42re that's garbage. But not like it would bolt up to a MJ. If its has the 242HD that is worth something but if not nothing special about the tcase.

If I where doing it I would -Replace control arms with WJ ones as you said -Replace the tie rod with a ZJ or soild one. -Replace all tre's with MOOG or something comparable. -New Coil isolator pads (as suggested) -Depending on how much of a rake you have you might need to put some taller coils or ACOS up front. You can add in upcountry coils for a little lift. OME will give you the best ride but are more $. -I'd add in BPE's -Decent set of shocks, Bilstiens will give you the best ride but are $ -Replace sway bar bushing and links. Quick discos or stock. -You can also upgrade your front sway bar to a thicker one. I know what they do but don't have any experience with it on a MJ so can;t say if it's worth while. -Upgrade the track bar or replace it. -Remove and repack the rear leafs and replace the bushings. -Make sure your u joints are good. -I'm a fan of replacing brakelines to stainless ones. Not necessary but I've always noticed improved brake feel when doing.

Not really just a "bolt up" deal but can be done easily enough if you got the tools, space and time. Yes the year matters and you might want to Frankenstein it to take advantage of the better parts during certain years. You don't have to but if youre going to do the swap might as well do it right. What tranny do you have? Auto or manny? Axles go with 97-99 it should be a front HPD30 non CAD with the bigger ujoints. If you by some chance have a D44 rear already (MJ gurus will know more about factory options than I do) keep it if not, you can upgrade it to a 8.25 is on the same years XJ 97-99 and is a great axle. You can also pull a 8.25 from a KJ and it will have disc. You'll need to reweld the perches though as MJs are sua and XJs are soa. ear will depend on if it was manual or auto. IIRC Auto should be 3.55 and manual is 3.05. Tcase you can either find a 231 or 242. 242 is nice if you see a lot of snow driving because it offers part time 4wd. If not 231 it a great case. There's a whole other topic on the "best" 231/242 I won't dive into but you can Google it. Drive shafts aren't a big deal. Just pull from whatever you get your tcase or axles from. Its probably best to goto a drive shaft place to have balanced and stretched if needed. You'll also need cross members, linkage, center console/shift area, plenty of beer and some extra hands.

I'm interested but would hinge on cost right now. Sorry if I missed it later back. In the process of building up my WJ but want some stiffners to go on the MJ. Id be on board if it helps getting a few more orders to get in going. Mines swb.

Rancho makes great stuff for soccer dads cruising to Starbucks in their JK. Not saying they make complete junk but I wouldnt give them a dime. Look at iron rock, ironman4x4, Stinkyfab, tNt, dirtbound to name a few. All good shops that and make quality products. Yeah it cost more but they are dudes dedicated to the unibody platform. They wheels what they build. I've never bought anything from Rustys a few guys I know run their stuff and like it but most of what the intrawebs and bumping into to people has told me is they make junk. I did call them when I was building an XJ a few years ago and customer service was sub par. Called up Iron rock guys knew their $#!& and Ive never had an issue with anything of thiers. If price is really your deciding factor than I would junkyard lift it. You can easily get 3" from OEM parts from other vehicles. Upcountry coils and a spacer will get your 3 up front. Bastard pack leafs in the back or chevy shackles IIRC, get a good track bar ZJ tie rod as you got and you'll be good.

I run General Grabbers, mi MJ is 100% on road and I really like those tires. Smooth on road and the few times I've found a dirt pile they've done fine. I found mine on eBay through discount tire direct. They had a promo for $100 off $400 or something. So i got mine really cheap. I suggest waiting until a holiday and you can find a good deal.

IIRC there was some XJ's that used a thicker sway bar. I do not think you can use a ZJ or WJ one because of mounting points. At least the WJ I imagine will be different because the geometry is entirely different. just wondering why you want to get an upgraded sway bar?

I'd look for something other than Rustys or RC. Much better vendors out there for the same cost. A lot of your rubbing issues will be based on your backspacing. The WJ arms do have a "notch" to help alleviate it. I'd vote for WJ arms over any fixed, they're cheaper and will accomplish the same thing. Really only Long arms or adjustables are a true upgrade.

Krustyballer on here is making up frame stiffners. Id suggest waiting for his to relase rather than getting the others. I havent done anything yet but apparently there's a major fitment issues with the others that are out there. Anywho.... Every axle will have its weak point and you're just selecting where you want tour fuse to be. Example, D30 you'll probably snap a ujoint before grenading the r/p. 37 s just become the tetter point for moving up to tons.