Jump to content

Smokeyyank

Members
  • Posts

    1426
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Smokeyyank

  1. Damn jeeps. Damn kids. Just when you think your on track..... I haven't built mine yet...clearly, but I do like to dream about the "if I was doing it tomorrow what would I do". At first when I got my MJ I was like let's cut this b*@ch up make a sweet truggy, got a bunch of parts to start building then I started to kind of like just driving it as is. 4 links rear are awesome and if you wheel it should be a nice choice. I've decided I'll never wheel my MJ, they are just too unique and mines in decent enough shape that I'd rather just have a restomod pavement pounder. I'll be keeping leafs but if you can link it go for it! Before my wife decided she was better at spending my money than I was I had this beast. I'll admit I cheated and bought it with most everything done, especially the body work, but the price was so good I just couldn't justify restoring the other one I had.
  2. Work properly......Long arm that sucka. 5" on short arms is pushing it. You can put on control arm drop brackets but kind of defeats the purpose of lifting it. You plannig on running adjustable uppers? I'd also ditch cRustys they make junk. And the JK arms need to be rear uppers.
  3. Titties..... Ill be interested to hear what you think of the iron man 4 link. I think there's and Stinkyfab are bad @$$. Only thing I wasnt huge on the iron man was the amount of bolts for the the tranny pan.
  4. Nice work man. At first I saw the MJ and was like WTF, but you've been doing some quality stuff. Keep it coming, thing is gonna look sweet.
  5. Yes. Only major difference is mounting, TJ's are coils we are leafs.
  6. For the amount you'll spend on a semi decent OTK or 1 ton you're better off spending more and going with a WJ swap if you want a true upgrade. Really all you are doing with most of the "kits" is polishing a turd. Stock geometry on XJ/MJ's sucks along with the brakes. You're not going to reap a lot of benefits and really you're best bet if you don't want to shell out cash is going with a solid tie rod with fresh TRE's and moving on. As for the Hiems or TRE question. If you are driving on the street TRE's will be better. Hiems are nice but they ride like crap. Only hiems worth a $#!& are these. They are stupid expensive but amazingly good. https://www.emfrodends.com/ The stinkyfab tierod is awesome. Aluminum but that thing takes a beating and bounces right back.
  7. Only up to 95 IIRC and you need to get them from a 2 door.
  8. Solid tie rod along with stock goemetry is what If go with. WJ swap is really the only legit upgrade to improve tour geometry and gives you better brakes but its not cheap.
  9. Ill admit I'd rock it. Definitely seen worst hack jobs.
  10. Short answer, no they aren't. Stick with trying to find 97-99. Those are going to be the best take off axles.
  11. If you're going through the hassle of swapping Id look for 97-99 axles. Dana 35 isnt even a useful boat anchor. The D30 will have the bigger u joints and the 8.25 is a great axle. You can swaps on to disc or you can find one out of a KJ.
  12. Cool, good luck with it!
  13. All I say after I tried to install a new back window is pay someone to do. I'm willing to do just about anything on anything, but after trying it once and fn it up I'll pay the $50-70 bucks for someone else to come out a do it right. If you haven't done a window before it's kind of a PITA.
  14. Yeah here random dying issue turned into a permanent one. I'm hoping I can take care of it from the top but will see what happens. Will probably fix it and get it ready to sell. She's pushing 175k on it and I'd rather not deal with a head gasket if it decides to go. Good luck on helping him out. Hopefully he actually tries to trouble shoot it and not fire the parts cannon.
  15. If he's getting fuel pressure to the injectors it's not the pump. My wifes KJ just crapped the bed because the fuel pump went out. I can't hear it prime and I got 0 pressure at the schrader valve. Has he tried to start it in neutral? Possible neutral safety switch. Is he getting a spark? Last thing is does he have a key with the chip in it? I know sometimes if those go bad it won't let you start them. Like on the KJ.
  16. Nice! What are the plans? Doing a true resto or resto mod or.....?
  17. It's not rocket science to cut them and really no need to have it "professionally" done. There are tons of right ups for doing it. Really will just depend on how good you want it to look after its done. IMHO here's the best write up for keeping a stockish looking rig. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/trim.html Otherwise some tape to figure out the lines you want and a cutting wheel. Boom done.
  18. I just put a new windshield on mine. They are the same you don't have to use a rubber seal. Those are only on the 94+ IIRC XJs. I swapped mine to rubber because I think it looks a little cleaner.
  19. Guess it's about time I added mine 88 Jeep MJ 4.0 3 pedal ax5 231 D30/ D35 Shortbed Located up in Gypsum CO Running, driving, kick @$$ truck. Eventually will be a resto mod pavement pounder.
  20. Nice! Someday I'll restomod mine.....someday
  21. Agreed, thing is bad @$$.
  22. Cool design but no way I'm paying $700. Let's be honest this is for the " quadratec" starter pack crew
  23. I like the star rating system. Feel like I'd be watching the movie for a friends 2 second clip.......
  24. Those fn headlights are ugly AF. WHYYYYYY
×
×
  • Create New...