Smokeyyank

This

Some rocky mountain oysters?! I'll look on the FB page and see what could use some help. Need to see if the wife will give me a pass first. Most of this week I'm tied up with football stuff and sometimes she likes me to come home.

I'll see if I can roll on down.

Looks like an awesome trip right there! I know some CO NAXJA guys are running the rimrocker towards the end of July. I really need to get a legit Jeep to wheel again.....

http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/231-HD-Shift-Linkage-Auto-Trans-V20_p_25.html

WJ conversion at least for the MJ when I get there will be about 1.5-2k. I'm going with the Stinkyfab kit and will source some of my own parts. There is modification to the sway bar mounts and track bar that need to be done. In no way is it just a bolt up kit. I know some people will just swap knuckles but it's not taking full advantage of the set up. There complete kit is almost $1900, but that is EVERYTHING and new http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/ Basic kit is less, but you need to source your own parts http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-basic-wj-high-steer-big-brake-kit-xj/ Obviously I know there are ways to do it cheaper, but I think they have the most complete kit and make awesome parts.

Did more digging because I want to know. Basically the only option is a WJ swap but it takes some creativity to get everything matched up. Big fan of the WJ swap but $$$

Hobofrieght all the way! Other than my dad sliding down hill in ice and knocking the XJ off the stands they held up just fine. I also got the big mamba jambas

Only issue with the WJ swap is leafs........I don't think the drag link will properly clear the leafs for SOA.

Don't go RC, much better lifts for the money. Zone makes a decent lift. IRO has always made decent stuff. OME is a great lift but more expensive. Really, there are lots of options and will just depend on what you want to do. If you want height and ride comfort OME is the best route. If you're planning to wheel it hard then it's going to be best to build your lift and possibly consider long arms. Personally, I'd start accumulating parts and do it right once then ten times half assed. The 4wd conversion is a good amount of work and to put parts on now you'll just be pulling them off later. You're going to need new axles and not D35s, things are only good for boat anchors. Best bet will be to source 97-99 XJ axles. You'll get a HP30 front with bigger u joints, non cad and high pinon, rear will be a 8.25 with 29 spline. More than enough axle to run 33's. If you plan on going 35's you should consider something else. While you can get away with a D30 and 8.25, might as well build a proper axle and not worry about breakage with 35's. If you're looking for just a budget lift temporarily here's what I'd do Front -ZJ upcountry coils net about 1-1.5" lift -Coil spacer get about .75" -Could also consider ACOS, I just put them on the level out my front but the great thing is they can be used to fine tune your set up once you have a proper lift. Rear -AAL That should get you enough to run a 30ish tire even though I say stick with a 29" max. Then you're also going to look at all the other parts to go with bigger tires; steering, braking, etc.

Its a 4 banger...so yeah not going to be a torque monster. Did the issue just start? What about time size or anything else that might be an issue.

There is this kit, but personally I think RR makes junk http://www.rocky-road.com/yj-high-steer.html Also this kit https://www.mountainoffroad.com/steering-correction-kit-87-95-yj.html You can also look at reid knuckles but for the cost axle swap might be the best option.

Basically everything. Then depending on the rear you might have to consider a SYE or tcase drop. With more lift comes more $. If you are worried about the front sagging with weight and are compensating with taller coils you can get ACOS to dial it in. I used it on mine to level out the front Before After

The advantage of going with a 96+ is OBDII. Prior to that you had OBDI, nothing else. It's a debate on whether OBDI is an upgrade over Renix. Personally, I think it is not, but that's just me. If I was to do the swap to a HO I'd find a 99. Last year of distributor and has the better intake manifold.

I'd just get axles from a 97-99 XJ. D44 isn't straight forward at all. Need a lot of stuff to do it right. At least with the XJ axle you'll get bigger u joints, CAD delete and will be a HP.

If you can pick it up cheap and there's not a lot of rust could be a good find. As for the driveline I'd scrap it and put something in that's worth a crap. It will be an undertaking for sure, but Gladiators are frickin awesome.

If rust is limited for $1,000 that's a pretty good deal. If you want turn it into a tow rig I'd look at swapping out the driveline. The 360 is decent, have one in a CJ, good torque but it's still carbed and at elevation it's a pain. It probably has a T89 or t18 so either 3 or 4 speed manny. The 4 is just a granny gear for 1st. I'd drop in a 350 with TBI vs going with after market EFI's. TBI is tried and true and can be picked up cheaper than the EFI's systems. In any case you can still keep the 360 and swap on a TBI. Just need a manifold adapter plate.

Thanks, big change from when Yella had it...

Put ACOS on the MJ to level out the front. Added about 2" also swapped over some quick discos, BPE and shocks form my recently departed XJ. How it was How it is now.

Rent from somewhere other than DIA, they rape and pilage your there. We do have a fancy new train from the Airport that will drop you off at all sorts of places. Hotwire has done me solid a few times for car rentals. Shouldn't have football that weekend so might be down for a beer or something. I'll PM you my #. Don't hang out with Yella, that guy's a jerk!

Gotta agree, it sticks too far out IMHO. Not just saying yours specifically, almost all those types bumpers in general I think look terrible.

As said, I wouldn't go with waggy. No real advantage in my opinion. Really, if you're going to swap axels at some HPD44/9 or tons are your best bets. You can also get JK axles, where I'm at people think they are gold plated so no sense in even considering.

Use this for gears... http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html The chart above while helpful isn't the best. It doesn't account for tcase or tranny so you can calculate your final crawl ratio. I ran 33s and 4.11's on my XJ, according to the chart above it's in the green. Well it was wrong, since I had a AW4 should have been at 4.56. 4.11's where ok, but I would have rather ran 31's for the 4.11's. Next go around with the MJ will be 4.56 and 33's, slight overkill since it's manual, but since I'm at elevation I need some more umph getting up the hill. I have not saw it mentioned but I would also swap out your front axle for a D30 that is non CAD, especially if you're going to run 35's . If you want to do it right you're going to need a lot more than lift and gears. Steering and braking should get upgraded to if you wanna play with the big rubbers. D30's are decent axles but their geometery sucks and in single piston calipers and you start to notice the limits of a D30 on 35's. My advice, learn to wheel on smaller tires and the ins and out of your rig. Then move up to either a d44/9 combo or go tons if you wan to go 35"+. Dollar for dollar it's silly to build a D30 to run 35's compared to a stronger axle.

It's probably underneath. A few others guys I've seen have make a tool to access the clutch through the bumper. I believe it can only work Warn and not smittys but I'm not 100%.

I was looking at doing something similar for the MJ, but I wanted a hidden winch bumper. I like the boostwerks design http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/BWE-Comp-Mount_p_14.html Here's my NAXJA thread about it http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1147107 Some decent ideas in there. I haven't done a damn thing besides buy the winch, but the biggest thing I got some far was being able to remove the bumper without needing to unbolt the steering.