Smokeyyank

I would just swap one in and keep on going. Most people have issues with the rebuilds on them versus swapping them out. Fluid and filter is a good start. You can also check the relays to make sure it's not one of those.

I can appreciate that. Was just throwing it out for those looking at something not "factory".

No need to reinvent the wheel....... http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/BWE-Comp-Mount_p_14.html

Rear window are non existent. No one makes the sliders any more and you're at the mercy of JY or second hand.

It's going to be impossible to fix right......you're better just selling it for cheap and moving on.... All joking aside killer find. I know the Dakota swap is an option but I honestly don't know enough about it to give you a great answer.

It would t be the worst idea to put front stiffeners all the way around to plating more of the unibody. Obviously will have to work around the crok kit but will be the best route.

Probably because music these days sucks @$$.......They've changed their sound but I love the self titled album. Gotta love those old crusty bastards still jamming anot not charging a fortune to see them or by a crappy shirt for $50 bucks.

Dig the ST I'm not crazy, institutionYou're the one who's crazy, institutionYou're driving me crazy, institution

That is what ended up killing my XJ..... You can put this on https://www.c-rok4x4.com/c-rok-online-store/C-ROK-Cherokee-XJ-Front-Frame-Stiffiners-p38115469

I'll share my insight on becoming a paper jockey. I started as a delivery driver in healthcare back in my early 20's. I can say when I was younger I liked being able to get out in the truck but more likely to get injured and dealing with weather and traffic sucks. I had to transition to a desk job mid way through college because of my school schedule. Truthfully wasn't that bad. I was able to take my breaks and lunches and always used them to just go walk; even in bad weather. Now I've been in a desk job for 14 years. Depending on where you are at within your career path will dictate how much "free time" you get to be up and about. Since I'm in upper management now I rarely get to go out from my office but in large part because I enjoy what I do and where I work. I still can do as want with in reason, but most days I'm eating lunch in my office and occasionally I will go take a walk around the parking lot. My advice would be....... 1- Find a company that has a good culture YOU enjoy. Took me years to figure this out and is a MAJOR factor for enjoying being at your desk. Not saying you need to have ping pong in the break room and catered lunch daily, but since you're spending most of your day plugging away on a computer sitting on your @$$ make it enjoyable as much as you can. Seriously search for a company not a job. Glassdoor is a great resource. 2- Music is a saving grace. First thing I do when I get in is open Pandora. It keeps me sane and helps the day go by. 3- Not all manual labor jobs transition to a desk job in the same way so explore your options within what you like. I was a delivery driver to start and went to verify insurance when I transitioned. Same industry but WAY different. At first it really did suck but I found a niche within my company and ended up enjoying it. 4-Depending where you are in life, kids, wife, etc. Benefits are something to consider and small companies most times have crap benefits. I've worked for a ton of different places and people by far one of the worst was small company and for nothing else than I didn't have benefits (plus the owner ended up being one of the biggest dbags ever). Yes they where flexible, great place to work and I could work from home and have beer at lunch. I made more than the big corporate job I left, but once I factored in benefits I actually made less. Not knocking small companies by any means but something to consider. When I took that job I didn't have a kid when I did have a kid it was eye opening just how bad our "benefits" were.

Zj or aftermarket solid tierod would be fine. No need to do anything else really. WJ setup will be the best all around upgrade but depends on your budget.

Pass......steering is a fickle mistress and RC isn't going to be the standout company worth spending money on. What are you running on your current set up? Most times a ZJ or solid tie rod is enough.

Welcome and good find! For the harness you got 2 routes. Upgrade to a 97 xj+; advantages are better connectors, obd II, and parts more readily available. Disadvantage it's a lot of work. Or Swap in another renix era harness. Advantages; not as involved as a 97+. Disadvantage you're still going through a decent amount if work for little gain, connectors could be a problem. Axle if you're already planning to swap I'd find a non CAD d30. Plus the 96+ have bigger u joints. No, not only is CC an awesome forum full of tons of knowledge but there are plenty of write ups on swapping to a 4wd and so on. Anyone with some basic mechanical aptitude can easily wrench on a 4.0.

I'm running the mammoth wheels that pete just mentioned on my WJ. I like them and was able to pick them up for $100 a piece on sale. These are the charcoal

I had it done on mine when I replaced the windshield a few months ago. Not a lot to it but I'm assuming you're going to have to put new glass in. Not sure about doing it with out that part.

IIRC a 86 is going to be a lot of work. Not simply pulling and dropping a driveline. You'll have to swap the harness and not sure about motor mounts. In any case you can swap something else in there will just vary on how much work it will take.

Proper Prep and a clean area to work in are HUGE! Honestly if you want it look semi decent it takes a lot of work. It will make or break your results. The paint is only going to be as good as the surface you spray it on. So if you outside and stuffs blowing everywhere it will be impossible to get a good paint job. You don't need to have a fancy booth but a sealed off work area and limited positive airflow are key. Also you'll need to be mindful of the temp and humidity. Basics are going to be...... Repairing/replacing any old rust. If you're going to be welding in patch panels take your time because you can warp the metal. Sand off all the old clear coat. You don't need to bring it to bare metal(except wherever you're welding) but need to get rid of the clear along with any old decals or old glue. Once you got the bones right you're gonna need to put filler in the necessary spots. For the any patches you'll need a heavier filling bondo. Try to keep it around 1/8th of an in no more than a 1/4. Any small areas a skim coat is sufficient. Then it's just sand, fill repeat until its smooth and level. So assuming you got all the rust areas fixed, dings gone and a smooth surface you're going to mask anywhere you don't want paint. Remove the parts the you can to make life easier. Getting some good masking tape makes a world of difference. Once its masked you're ready to shoot primer. First should be a good fill primer. Probably 1-2 coats. Then block sanding everything to nice and smooth. If you notice any areas that are wavy or need some more body filler touch those up any repeat with primer sand again until smooth. Once you have a good base of filler primer and have block sanded move on to a thinner finish primer. Again spray a coat block sand. You'll need to be moving up in grit. Make sure to keep the surface clean and not letting dust sit around. Now you're ready to paint. Make sure to put and inline dryer and proper pressure regulator. Temp, humidity, paint and tons of other little variables go into how you'll mix it. Once it's in the gun focus on spraying in long, light coats. Try to limit your wrist movement and focus on just moving your arm. Once you have 2 coats down. Move on to wet sanding with a block moving to a higher grit 800-1000ish. Spray 2-3 more light coats wet/block sand again moving up again. Finish up around 2k grit. Once your paint is down and its smooth final part is clear. Same as above for paint but clear isn't as forgiving for runs. Spray and wet sand. 2-3 coats is all you'll need. Wax it up and enjoy the shine! If you want to cut steps it's the block sanding. That really adds the depth and smoothness to the finish. The rest you really can't cut corners or simplify unless you go with a 1 stage paint.

Fiat........ https://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/chrysler/2019/08/10/jeep-death-wobble-fix/1969368001/

Agree. HO is more work but done right is a killer setup for a daily.

Good find! Will be excited to see what you do with them

I saw those the other day. Really tempted to jump on those.

HAHAHA! Yep. But kidding aside that is ugly AF.

100% BS. Just having some fun.

DIY supercharger!

So much this. I learned if there is someone that I absolute hate and want to spam the crap out of put their info in and let the madness ensue.