Smokeyyank

Uship is a joke. All they are is a broker and charge a fortune plus when they damage things is next to impossible to hold anyone accountable. When I shipped my X5 from AZ to CO I used a local guy that ran a route that went form CO, NV, CA and AZ. You can post a want ad on CL and go that route. Other idea is calling to a bigger car dealer in the area and ask them if they know any that hauls vehicles. Since most of those dealers are transporting vehicles to and from auction they are bound to have some connections. They are probably going to take a cut i.e charging you $550 but the cost of shipping is $450 type deal.

It's probably the same people that thought Donk was cool......

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c2396&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c5641&zip=80127&distance=50000&searchChanged=true&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=244679183

That is an amazing MJ.......

That place is pretty sweet. Been a looonnnggg time since I've been there.

I eventually need to get the lunchbox in and new ironman diff cover on. Once I save my pennies, I'll get a front winch bumper so I can mount the winch I have. Otherwise just tinkering with things here and there.

Well it's been a while....not a whole lot to report other than I finally got a free weekend to work on somethings. One of the things I've been wanting to do was freshen up the headlights. They've been rough and at night can't see $h*t especially in the mountains where there is already limited light. Process was pretty easy and I like the results.

Huh, interesting. I will try this out and see.

Looking for more of this style.

Alright, so I'm trying to figure out how to add a patina finish to some metal artwork I have. It's a world map that is cut out of steel. I tried using the metal master kit and it's not working how id like. I've googled what to do and keep coming up with more questions. So see if any of you all might have a better idea since this place has a plethora of knowledge. I can post some pics later. Https://www.homedepot.com/p/Modern-Masters-Metal-Effects-Blue-Patina-Paint-Oxidizing-Finish-Kit-204337/206483617?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D24|Multi|NA|PLA|All_Paint_Smart|71700000048001153|58700004793621602|92700041080546059&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0eieNh8SF1hHZE6RqLYNUJ1qwlYDsequ80eyD3NjZxRPmBQNgnKoctQaArnQEALw_wcB

HAHAHHA Jeep people never cease to amaze me......especially those unibody folk. We get $h*t done. Back to the issue. You can check fuel pressure on the Schrader valve to easily check a fuel issue. Obviously have a towel handy so you're not spraying gas everywhere. On my wifes KJ it had similar symptoms before it crapped out. Otherwise heat soak could be the culprit.

You must not like your friend...I sold my fully rebuilt and complete 4.0HO with 25k on it for $1,200. You can pick up a fully rebuilt long block for less than 2k. As for the swaps. You can look in epic a few have used the TDI diesels with success. I've thought about what I would do once the 4.0 is ready to go in my manche. Sometimes I think LS swap, others 4.0HO swap, other diesel. I'd say what ever your budget for add on another 10% of cost and 100 hours of time because well $h*t happens especially with swaps.

I love LJs. I heavily debated getting one but they are pricey. Can't help you with pics or mods but the few I've seen done right either have a little lift, winch and 32s or full on long arms with a bunch of other goodies. Guess it would really depend on what you want it to do?

Decent comanches out here are upwards of 3k+ probably closer to 4. There's is a guy on FB marketplace with a 91 eliminator 2wd hes asking 5 for it. Its clean and from texas. Just to give you a general idea. I look daily just because and whenever there's a decent, not great just decent deal it's gone in a day. As for exploring get an XJ or WJ depending on the size of your family. I've owned all of them. XJ was my favorite to wheel MJ is my favorite to drive. WJ is the best of both. Comfy and drives great and does decent offroad. Its built for more road duty and not as flexy as I'd like but hasn't had issues with what I do. Its also my daily because can't fit a car seat in the MJ. Otherwise I always drive the MJ.

I'd go the LS route. I know it's not what you are wanting to do, but there's a reason it's so popular. Cheap, tons of power and has been documented for swaps. Are you looking for the destroked 350-->327 or you taking about the actual 327?

IMHO best part is dumb and dumber being filmed there. When ever we go to Estes it's a must to stop at the Stanley and grab a beer at the bar.

Personally, I wouldn't go with cRusty's. I know a few of the NAXJA peps have used the CRok kit with success. They used to have a monster reinforcement kit that was amazing but pretty sure they stopped making it.

No don't cut the stiffener to make your stock bumper work. Completely defeats the purpose of the stiffener. You're going to have to fab a little to retain the stock bumper and the additional width of the stiffener. The stiffener is going on the outside of the unibody so you should not have to mess with the radiator support. you can also just add this https://www.c-rok4x4.com/c-rok-online-store/C-ROK-Cherokee-XJ-Durango-Reinforcing-Frame-Kit-p38115458

No, the whole purpose of doing the WJ pump is to get more flow for a bigger box, if your on a stock box it's really a moot point. If you want a little more umph when at lower speeds just go with the smaller under drive pulley. If you're planning to run a ram assist I'm guessing you're going 35s+. A stock box is only good for so much and if you're swapping tons, (guessing because of your sig) I would get a bigger box along with pump. It's a noticeable size difference between the stock box and the durango one.

WJ does pump more fluid but you need to upgrade the steering gear to the Durango box as well. It's awesome upgrade, ran it on my XJ locked on 33's and it made a world of difference. It's fairly bolt on but you need to do a few things. -Need a bigger spacer on the gear as it will hit the unibody. -Need to tweek some of the brackets on the pump, tapping one or something (can't remember what I had to do but it's wasn't that difficult) -Keep the MJ pump fitting, the WJ fitting will not work properly.

Don't revalve a stock XJ pump. Either WJ pump or an underdrive pulley. I'd also look at running a cooler and a in line filter.

Will really depend on what you want to go do and your budget. Also your tolerance of people. I hate people and crowds. So when I want to get away I want to get away. Check out travelzoo you can find some decent vacation packages there. Obviously going certain places during off season is better. VRBO's are also a nice option to save some cash. Obviously I'm impartial to CO, I love it here and with the exception of Denver becoming a nightmare to get a round. It's ton of fun and there's a bunch of options around. Children's museum, Zoo(s) [Cheyenne mountain zoo, Keensburg animal sanctuary and the Denver Zoo], Denver Aquarium, Elitches, obviously gobs to do up in the hills. I can keep going..... Hawaii is going to cost a small fortune, seriously it's stupid expensive, and unless you can go to a smaller less tourist place it's not really that pleasant for the amount of cash you have to drop to just be there. Nebraska is FN boring IMHO. My wife is dragging me to Omaha for labor day weekend to go see friends and we can do everything there in a weekend. They have a Zoo........and I guess trees, a week is a long time there. Best trip I've ever went on was an Alaskan cruise. We stopped in Victoria and I'd love to go back to BC. Alaska was amazing I'd do that trip a 100 times and not get bored.

4.0 has the 42re. Sometimes the dipstick list what to use but yes it is the ATF+4. As a side note. I would do a service and replace the filter on it if you haven't. Those aren't the greatest trannies and life expectancy is really hit and miss. My dad's WJ crapped out at 150k, my wifes KJ has 180 and is still going but the tranny is really sluggish. Around 130k we serviced it because it had the shudder problem (felt like you where driving over cattle guards) but the shift points drive me insane. Another thought is putting one of these in. They help with a lot of the shift issues. http://www.electricaladvantage.net/42re44reshiftcorrectionkit99up.aspx

You should be able to put a reman head on without touching to bottom end. I wouldn't quote me on that one though. In the end it's all personal preference really. I would just look at it as you are already going through the work, time and money to do it and if it's a difference of a few hundred bucks to be done and done right. I hate doing double work. So if I'm already going through the trouble of doing something most times I just opt to do it once and right, but I get sometimes it's not in the cards.

At a minimum you should get the heads and block machined. I wouldn't try and DIY that part. Especially if you don't have any of the proper tools. Not worth the chance of messing it up. For the heads I would just let the shop do it all and give you a "drop in ready" unit. Whether that's a core exchange or rebuilding your current one.