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I’m thinking somewhere along the lines of a 285/75/17’s which are about a true 34x11.5

I did see that picture. Not sure what size tires those are but I’d guess in the 35ish range. That’s JCR’s rig before they built it up iirc. Looks to me like there’s about 3-4” of uptravel left there. I’d like to get 5-6” of uptravel ideally. I’m going for it. Going to grab those notch flares and some 4.56 gears. Don’t want to overgear too much for that LS. Planning to run 17’s so there are a lot of incremental tire size options between 33.5-35” to fit

Well I guess I’ll be the guinea pig

If you can afford the down time, checkout Marlin Crawler for a rebuild. They are the only ones out there actually upgrading the ax15 if requested.

Looking for some input on my latest build. I’m running the 3” BDS lift. Seriously considering running Notch M Max flares and 35’s. Anyone else have a similar setup for reference? Will be running aftermarket wheels with appropriate backspacing, bump stops, gearing, brakes, steering etc.

The radiator tranny ports also help bring up the fluid temps for the tranny. More like a temp regulator than a cooler. The PS system can benefit from a cooler but it should be an external unit. An external cooler also adds fluid capacity as mentioned above.

I’ve run psc, redhead, Durango and stock boxes. For 33’s on my MJ I had a stock box rebuilt by PSC. About the same quality as redhead gears. Also ran a psc stock style pump. Worked great for onroad with occasional wheeling. I like plenty of steering feedback though. If you want more effortless steering, go with the psc big bore or a redneck ram setup. For tight and precise steering though, the number one improvement was to run the ironman track bar and steering brace setup. Once that was dialed in just right, it’s as close to rack and pinion steering as I’ve ever felt in a Jeep. And that was 6” of lift on 33’s.

The factory control arms are an “elegant” design. Able to flex and be light weight. But at 3” and with larger tires tire clearance and CA angles become somewhat of an issue. IMO the WJ arms don’t flex as well as they simply were not designed the same. I’d go with just some adjustable control arms with good joints so you can get your alignment back in spec. Many good options: Core, Metal Cloak and Currie (RockJock) all come to mind. But, if you could get away with adjusting your wheel stops or possibly even running a high quality wheel spacer to clear those 31’s on stock control arms, that may also be a viable solution. WJ arms do have their applications though

Looking for a pair of oem fenders and grill from a 97-01 XJ. Will also take washer bottle, splash shields and fender braces. LMK what you have.

Here is my take on it though I may be off . The charcoal “activation” creates tiny pores to increase surface area. VOC’s get trapped inside those tiny pockets. The engine then pulls fresh air through the replaceable filter on the bottom and extracts the VOC’s out of the charcoal and into the intake manifold. So the way I see it, the charcoal is not actually serving as a filter, more like a reservoir for VOC’s. If the activated charcoal was actually performing a filter function, then it would need to be replaced very frequently. But by design, the only replaceable item is the bottom air filter. Now if the charcoal inside becomes dirty and clogs the pores of the charcoal (perhaps from a dirty air filter or muddy water intrusion) then it wouldn’t work correctly anymore. But if maintained properly by replacing the filter and ensuring engine vacuum is always present, I can’t see why it wouldn’t last as long as the vehicle. Again, my theory is based on the idea that the activated charcoal is serving more as a collecting medium vs a filtration system.

Fun little project. These head units look clean in TJ’s

Awesome! Thanks

Does your canister not have the replaceable filter on the bottom? I’ve replaced several in the 4.0 canisters but maybe they’re different.

A few small updates. Sourced some original grizzly wheels and am going to repaint the whole rig and get the hardtop back to original color. New carpet on the way also. This thing is just cherry. Starts up every time, runs so smoothly and quietly, zero steering or suspension issues and zero rust underneath. Just swapped in some new infinity speakers the other day in the factory locations and have been slowly removing some aftermarket navigation system that was added in Japan. Pic for what I expect the end result will be. Also shot a picture of the build label. Anyone here able to decode it? @fiatslug87 @eaglescout526

You can use the Chevy pattern with Waggy parts. That will give you 6x5.5. You can run the Wilwood D52’s: https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/BrakeKitListFront?mincatdesc=D52 Front Caliper Kit I ran those calipers on hydroboost with Waggy rotors and warn hubs. The braking power was exceptional and effortless. Awesome for wheeling.

Let the shipper know. They will probably want it back. Probably got mixed up with someone else’s order

I second the Chevy 6 bolt. Same pattern as Waggy. Lots of brake options as mentioned including Wilwood setups. Plenty of hub options as well.

So do you want a taller, lower or more angled seat? I like as much knee support as possible but find that typically comes from raising the front of the seat a bit to provide thigh support. But if you want to keep your leg straight without bending the knee you’ll need to sit lower and further back. Once you know what kind of ergonomics you need, the appropriate mod will reveal itself

It does . The medium sized “game board” box iirc. Flat rate boxes have been our friends here for many years now.

Here is what I could find. Not much but hopefully the other angles will help. I live the turbine wheels but which there were also some good quality caps to go along. All the ones I could find were in rough shape.

Didn’t notice the PM but I just saw this post. I’m not making any at the moment, took down the thread as well. I may again in the future but couldn’t say when

Here is a NOS turbine. I think I have a few other pics as well I’ll try to dig up.

Here you go:

Been down this road before myself. You’ll need a competent exhaust shop. No need for mandrel bends. Just have them run a 2.25 or 2.5 all the way and use all the oem hangers ancluding the one on the crossmember. Grab a stainless spun magnaflownuniversal cat with heat shield and whatever muffler you prefer. I hated the fuel smell running catless. It was exhausting . I’ve also had a few strokers. Always been a letdown for me too. The 4.0 is a good jeep engine that I’ve learned to appreciate mostly in its stock form.

Will do!