ghetdjc320

I dug up some info in an email I had from Alcan. $938 for a pair and the bushings are included. 6 week build time. Number to call to order I was given is 970-241-2655. That was for a 3” lift spring in 2022

Great looking rig. Congrats!

I’ve also used this one on my last MJ: https://jbaspeedshop.com/i-22726026-91-95-jeep-wrangler-mid-pipe.html They can be found for a good deal if you shop around. Excellent quality

Post them up in that thread I started if you don’t mind and we should be able to get them ID’d.

Thats great to know! I'll have to get by there before I take off again. As you come across different connectors, would you mind taking a picture of them so we can ID them?

I was really considering a 97+ interior swap originally just for the gauges and audio options. They make a nice double din dash kit to run a decent carplay/android head unit. And the dakota digital HDX setup for the 97+ XJ/TJ is awesome. Thinking about that setup for my current TJ. Ultimately I preferred the style of the original dash and once I found such a pristine black dash I was committed. Intellitronix makes a cluster for the TJ/XJ dash and even has the LS swap sensor adapters. Very cost effective and quiality gauges.

Interestingly enough, even though all the big manufacturers no doubt spec’d connectors for their parts and probably even gave them their own part numbers, I don’t think many of them actually produced them in-house. Delphi (aptive) made most of GM products. So far I’ve found Delphi, Molex, Sumitomo and Yazaki connectors throughout the MJ/XJ components. What I’m aiming to compile is the actual manufacturers part numbers so we don’t have to rely on some GM, AMC or ChryCo part numbers. Another interesting one to find are the power window/lock pin connectors. Those almost look like they use the same potting material in the Mopar HO PCMs. I’ve seen ford use those though. Wonder if those may have been an in-house manufacturing attempt

This one stumped me for a while: power mirror switch plug. Turns out it’s a Yazaki PA .120 series from Japan (makes sense as several parts on the MJ were made in Japan). Looks suspiciously close to a TE 7 pin but it’s slightly different.

This is the connector I’m referring to. Do you know the part number for the female plug by chance?

Do you have a manufacturer and part number for that one? The HO cluster connector is the one I’m referring to. Here is the temp sensor connector I haven’t been able to locate.

Whatever you have data on would be great! Headlamp connector i have somewhere and will post them up. The tricky ones are the various JDM spec connectors such as mirror switch, gauges, hvac control deck connector, overhead console and that infamous temp sensor connector for the gauge sender (this one I’m still looking for).

Let us know how it turns out

As I'm going through my build using a custom harness, I'm having to identify several connectors that have been a bit difficult to find. I was thinking of compiling the manufacturers and part numbers into a single thread in the DIY section for quick reference. I figured this info would be useful as original wiring harnesses in good condition are getting harder to come by. A reference chart could be useful for both restoration and modification. If you come across a specific connector, post it up and I'll add it to the master list. Please provide the connector location or what it plugs into, the manufacturer and the model number. A picture would also be great. If you need some help identifying a specific connector for replacement this might be a good resource also.

I think we should start a thread with all the known electrical connectors and part numbers as they can be tricky to find. I’ve been tracking down everything I can find and the one that stumped me was the power mirror switch connector. It, along with various other electrical parts were made in Japan and don’t use the standard Delphi/Aptiv/TE connectors. Fortunately I had a connection from working on Japanese watercraft that came through and found this most obscure of connectors. It is a Yazaki PA series with .120 pins. This is the 7 position connector that connects to the board connector for the mirror switch.

BORA custom wheel adapters just came in. Super awesome product. They offer lifetime warranty and inscribe your invoice number into the back of each unit. The rears are only 19mm thick and the fronts are 27mm thick. There are custom made for this Jeep with the JT M14 lug studs and the specific KJ (71.50mm) and JT wheel (71.54mm) hub bore. These are both hub and lug centric for a smooth solid ride.

Good to know. So it sounds like the f150 brake light should fit against the body in my application so long as I open up the appropriate holes for it. Here is what I’m thinking of running: https://www.morimotohid.com/Ford-F-150-15-Morimoto-X3B-LED-Brake-Light?quantity=1

Alcan is top quality stuff. They make the leaf pack based on how you use the truck not just how high you want it to sit

The 97+ NP 242 4wd indicator switch is a 4 pin unit which provide a separate continuity for the “full-time” and “part-time” 4wd positions. I identified the connector as a Delphi 12065298.

Stripped down the NP242 getting ready for a build. This thing was nasty inside. Once I had it all stripped down i used it to mock up where it was going to mount to check for clearance. Much easier to maneuver an empty shell. Put all the old hardware in the tumbler.

General spring makes a replacement spring that is good for about a 2" rear lift and they really don't ever settle/sag. Deaver or Alcan will make you a custom pack if you want. Otherwise your stuck with Rusty's or Hell's creek. Bastard packs are another decent option depending on the application.

If water can make it down in the seam than so can por15 . Jack up the truck so the rusty seam in the cowl sits just a bit lower. Seal off the cowl drain and thin out some por15 (5% dilution with paint reducer). The thin dilution will run down into any place water was accessing. After drying, I'd follow that up with another coat or two of non-diluted por15. If you can reach back in there with a paint brush on an extension that would work too. Also, a thin caulk/paint scraping blade on an oscillating tool works wonders at removing the factory seam sealer and really exposing any rusty areas hidden below.

Thanks for the info! I've been looking at the Morimoto 3rd brake light options. If you would have used the BPD adapter, would you have to have cut some larger holes for the back of the 3rd brake light? Do you think the contour matches the MJ cab in that area?

The connector for the 97+ front clip wiring arrived. Very cool that it’s all ready to go. Just need to ID the wiring. The painless kit is quite easy to use overall and a pretty good option for the MJ. There are a few tricky items to sort out wiring on such as the wiper system, ac request and some of the lighting but it’s not overly complex. Integrating factory door locks, power windows, air locker system, audio system, heated seats, overhead console, dash cam etc. is where the complexity really comes into play.

More parts. NP242 SYE from Tom Woods along with an oem 6 pinion planetary and front and rear 1310 pinion yokes with u bolts