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The Mopar cam felt a lot like stock HO cam. About the same curve with maybe a touch more. Both comp cams added a good amount of torque under the curve between 1500-2000 rpm but fell flat on their faces at about 4500rpm. Haven’t tried Lunati, Crane or Isky. You could also do a custom grind with most of those manufacturers. Here is how I built my latest 4.0: 250k 96 block (first year for NVH enhancements) bored .060 decked for zero clearance (pistons actually .003 out of the hole. rotating assembly balanced KB hypereutectic pistons arp rod, main and head bolts Cometic .040 MLS head gasket Edelbrock aluminum head 63mm throttle body (63mm is the actual opening size on the HO and 99+ intakes 505 stage 1.5 cam adjustable roller rocker Molly pushrods Hylift-Johnson type S lifters melling high volume oil pump 505 Teflon cam bearings king main and rod bearings 99 intake ford purple 24lb 6 hole injectors JBA exhaust with TJ downpipe (wraps in front of the oil pan) Compression is just about 10:1 but with quench at .037 I get no issues running 87 though I mostly run 91. I don’t have access to a dyno here but this rig definitely outperforms my last stroker build in my YJ. I will say though that the aw4 really is a power leech. My next project if time and funds allow us to get the ecu socketed and tune it. I ran a Holley stand alone efi on the YJ but haven’t gotten around to doing that in the mj. And one last note: after having dealt extensively with Clifford, Hesco and 505 Performance, I really don’t recommend any of them. Some of their products are decent but between misrepresenting products, overpricing off the shelf components and terrible customer service I’ve come to group them all into my “don’t contact them unless there is no one else” category. Russ Pottenger does amazing work however and his pricing and skills can’t be beat. Clegg actually gave me really good customer service as did Hylift-Johnson and of course Summit Racing as always. Comp cams would also hardly ever answer the phone or a tech question but I just bought through summit instead once I knew what I needed. Edelbrock was very helpful and the guys @ efi systems pro (all things Holley efi) were also super good to work with.

I’ve run a few different cams. The latest cam I’m running is a 505 performance cam (not a fan of the customer service but the cam is nice). Keeps plenty of torque down low but keeps a surprisingly flat response and doesn’t die off at higher rpm. Granted, I built up my 4.0 quite a bit. Also ran the comp 235 and 232 along with the Mopar purple cam.

Nice find! Crazy how few HO's there are out there. No wonder the tech section is full of Renix era MJ's

This is the VIN recorded as the MJ my new leaf springs came from. Said it was a 91. What's left of it is located at J&W Jeep in California.

Good question . I’m about to pick this project back up. Will keep everyone posted

Yep, they are small slots at the base of the window facing the bed.

Good to know. Keep us posted

I don’t recommend the fords for your setup, that’s just for my engine which is built quite different. They would be like 30+lbs on you 49psi obd2 setup. Run stock injectors or use this as a guide: http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/custom3.html You need approximately a 20.4lb injector @ 3 bar (43.5 psi) to get that 23lb stock injector size (assuming the 98 ecu is used) 3 bar is what most injector flow rates are measured at. 43.5/49=.88 so if your trying to get the 23 lbs stock injectors then you’ll need something rated about 20.4 (I’d shoot for a 21lb injector at 3 bar). You’ll be slightly overfueled but can always trim that in the ecu.

The images you attached have an .heic extension. Make sure they are regular jpegs. There are 4 drain holes on the rear window frame. Are they all open so they can drain?

Not sure what specifically your asking form but even the control arm brackets are different on an MJ. The “bolt on” parts are the hood, fenders, doors etc. A lot of interior pieces are different. Kick panels, center console insert, floor bracing, interior trim etc. Lots of differences but practically anything can be fabbed and modified to fit

@Pete M can we add this to the DIY section? Great info and awesome pics

Good info . The ones in the link you posted will get you overfueled though. You can use ev6 injectors also with adapters. I run Ford purple injectors which are ev6 6 hole injectors and 24lbs @ 39psi.

If your running the return less system than I’m assuming fpr in the tank and 49psi at the rail. These are the wrong injectors for you. You will be overfueled. Not that the ecu can’t eve learn the new injectors but the injector pulse width will need to be a good amount below spec. You need injectors that flow about 21ish lbs @49psi for a stock engine.

If your going to be replacing the heater core and still have AC, I’d replace the evaporator at the same time while you have it torn apart. The job is all relative. If you done a dash removal before, it’s a pretty quick job. If you’ve never tackled it you may spend most of your time looking what what bolt/screw needs to come out next. Plan a solid day for the swap if you have all your parts and tools.

That’s pretty much what I just said. Except closed cell foam is worse than jute for trapping water.

As far as I know, the 97+ doors have to be swapped to run the newer seals. If the floors have been replaced and don’t have any leaks then many use a seam sealer and/or por15. Personally I wouldn’t use bedliner unless that will be the final surface (no carpet).

In other words, fix your leaks first lol. Minuit and I will both give you a ton of info on the subject (probably tmi). I do have to disagree with chucking the jute backing though. Although closed cell foam will not absorb moisture it also doesn’t “breathe” at all. So basically, it traps moisture under the carpet much more than the more absorbent jute backing which, although it absorbs moisture, also acts as a bit of a wick over time. Noico does work fine as well for dampening panels. There are several aspects to creating a quieter cab. In regards to wind noise, I doubt you are wanting to redesign the cab of your truck. The 97+ doors have a updated sealing design that is indeed quieter. The issue is gaps as Minuit pointed out. Gaps (particularly mismatched gaps) cause turbulence which creates wind noise. Make sure you have all your seals in place. Of particular note is the oem A pillar wind guard which does help quiet down wind noise a decent amount. If you want to go beyond that, build a cab within a cab. Isolate, dampen and absorb. Basic principles of all acoustic treatment.

I’d still recommend getting closer to the right injector size but need to know your fuel system first. If you run the obd2 fuel setup your ecu will have quite a fuel trim. @Cummins48 interested in the crank sensors you have. Would like to advance timing on my HO motor before socketing the ecu.

Your going to an obd2 setup which runs a return less fuel rail with a fpr in the tank set to 49psi. Are you going to go with that system or work with an HO style stock system? If you install those injectors with the higher fuel rail pressure your injectors will be quite oversized. Any obd2 swap is complex but quite doable (but I wouldn’t call it a simple swap). Just let us know what you will be running for fuel system (fuel rail, fpr/sender)

I used dynamat on the floor and installed acc carpet with mass backing. If you can be more specific of what noise you are trying to eliminate that would be helpful. Are your referring to road noise, engine noise, wind noise, improving sound for your speakers? All have different solutions. You can make your MJ quiet as a new Mercedes but it will take plenty of work. Here are a few basic ideas: Get rid of any rattles in the cab first. Listen carefully and try to track down any loose panels or components. Make sure there are no open holes in your firewall that lead into the cab. Make sure your window seals and door seals are nice and tight. Grease your chasis and suspension components to get rid of squeaks. Check you bushing and also check for any missing body plugs that lead to the cab. Check for exhaust leaks. Once all those things are eliminated then you can move in to treating the cab

So are you running the return less fuel system with the fpr in the tank? Or are you running an external fpr? If so, what pressure are you setting it to? Your harness should be for ev6 connectors not ev1. I’d grab an HP tuner and license and start tuning that engine my self or grab Chris from christuned to get it tuned for you remotely. That will make for the most efficient running engine

What is this going on and what year electronics are you running?

Looks like a nice little project truck. Looks like someone has done a 97+ front clip. Has a sliding rear window which a nice option. Other than that, the speaker mounting in the b panels is sloppy as is the fender trimming. As Pete mentioned, pull the carpet to check for rust.