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I think you both are tired lol. Flipping a fan blade assembly will not change the direction of the air flow. You should be able to simply reverse polarity on the fan motor. Unless you can change the pitch of the blades like a helicopter.

The WJ knuckles bolt on to the JK axles which means that the JK knuckles bolt to TJ/XJ/YJ axles! I am starting to suspect that Vanco runs a RHD and LHD JK knuckle with Ford rotors and calipers. The lower ball joint should be replaced with the WJ/JK one for proper clearance but many don’t. I’ve been trying to crack the recipe for a “bolt-on” big brake kit for 90+ D30’s for a while now.

The JK uses a 30 spline outer even in the d30. So WJ knuckles and brakes with JK unit bearings and stub shafts? Interesting concept. I believe JK knuckles are also an option and if they are then that opens up the possibility of Reid knuckles... Someone please try this combo and post up the results!

You mean for the brakes? Is your rear load valve still in tact and functional?

I’m thinking of trying something similar. Installing a 10” pusher in the hot side of the radiator.

Do you have it mounted to your condenser?

IIRC the underlying issue is centering the U joints

What size pusher did you run? Looking for something I could put in front of my condenser

I agree with the ZJ brakes barely being adequate. We tried to do that brake system write up to help avoid some of the issues that @JustEmptyEveryPocket experienced, namely, no real improvement over stock. Hands down the best upgrades are hydroboost and multi-piston calipers with larger disks. Every Jeep I get I invest in steering and brakes first and go from there.

And the front fenders are super abundant and easy to find. I went JCR and love them.

Personally I would use a good adapter for the bubble flares to inverted flare. That tool I linked doesn’t do bubble flares but it does oem quality inverted ones. The good tool that does both is about $200

If you go to rear disks then the adjusting valve isn’t going to give the correct pressure for disks. Remove the load sensing valve and delete the distribution block. Run a new copper line back to the soft axle line. Replace the distribution block with and adjustable valve (eg wilwood) and the bracket that mounts to the MC studs in the booster and provided a solid mount for the prop valve. You need a passenger side drop bracket since there is no room for the prop valve to be in the drivers side of the MC without removing the washer bottle (or updating to the 97+ bottle). The pic of the bracket and mounting is in my build thread. Alternatively, you could use a ZJ prop valve. The distribution of pressure for disks is pretty close to 50/50. You will likely want less than 50% in the rear though depending on whether or not the truck has anything in the bed. Difference in front and rear piston sizes in the calipers makes a difference as well. An adjustable valve makes it easy to adjust properly.

@EUREKA That does look similar. I believe dirt bound off-road makes a triple 10 shroud that you can install your own fans on. Perhaps their shroud and some tried and true Spal fans and quality controller that can handle the load should work well. I am a bit dubious in the FF dynamics fan output claim. I have a feeling they are estimating the current draw and cfm at 14.5v or so under ideal circumstances.

Well it’s a bolt on kit and gives the advantage of disks. No real stopping power improvements over well functioning drums though. I would do it for the convenience though. The front takes most of the braking load and is where I would invest first if I had to choose just one though. If you switch to rear disks I’d recommend running a new line to the rear and just removing the load sending valve and old distribution block. Install a Wilwood adjustable prop valve with passenger side drop bracket. That way you can dial in your brakes and make adjustments for future updates. Just my $.02

Just wanted to post here about my experience with the FF Dynamics triple 10 fan kit. I’ve had the kit for 2 years. The fans work well but are a bit on the noisy side. They are sealed and have a lifetime warranty. Their specs show better than most spal fans. Current draw is supposed to be 5a each but that doesn’t tell you at what voltage. They include an “adjustable” fan controller that has some serious shortcomings though. First of all, it only handles 30a and these fans pull right at that on startup. Second, the controller only has a single on/off temp. So when temp is close to the startup temp it will cycle on/off frequently and really puts a heavy load on the electrical. My controller fuse holder (which is only 14awg) melted A few months back and now the whole controller is shot. I’ll be replacing it with a painless 60a controller with a 10degree sweep between on and off positions. The FF dynamics controller is junk and there customer support seems to never really understand the issue so it will likely continue. Perhaps this belongs in the pub section but hopefully I can save someone the trouble of buying and using that controller.

Oh yeah, that’s the steering shaft support bushing. I was thinking steering column in the cab. Looks similar to a YJ and CJ one. Wonder if they interchange

Look for GM steering column parts. I found a kit for my 88YJ somewhere on a GM column repair store online.

None of the flares on the distribution block are “bubble flares” they are ”double” flares. See pic for reference. Tough to get get double flares straight with the bar style flare tool. Here is a simple flaring tool I’ve used and makes great leak free double flares in 3/16 every time: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900318 There’s also a really nice kit with fittings from SURR that I use every time I have a big brake line job. Comes with tons of quality fittings and good quality copper nickel tubing.

https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitaxleflange This is a nice reference to the different axle flanges.

That kit is listed for the 97+ TJ D35 since it uses the TJ style parking brake cables but the flange is the Chrysler 8.25/D35/TJD44. Should be a very straightforward parking brake connection from our MJ’s. You’ll probably also need that spacer for the axle bearing.

The 89 and older Dana 30 MJ and XJ knuckles are desirable and worth salvaging. Crown and APTY used to manufacture them and Vanco was using them to build their “kits”. When they stopped producing them (I really wonder why) Vanco switch ti modifying the later style 90+ knuckles to accept bolt on calipers. Vanco now uses their own knuckles and pieces them together with various oem calipers and Ford rotors. I am quite curious what knuckles they are using. I recall reading on a dodge forum the interchangeability or knuckles between some dodge truck and Jeep Dana 30/44’s. The idea was to be able to get a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern using the dodge unit bearing. I was researching that as a companion to doing a rodeo/passport Dana 44 rear to match lug patterns. If the right knuckle could be found then brakes and wheel patterns could both be easily modified with off the shelf components. To further go down the rabbit hole, JK d30 knuckles have been swapped with WJ knuckles and vice versa. And since we know WJ knuckles will swap onto our d30’s... the possibilities are very intriguing. Reid also used to make an old spindle style D44 knuckle that bolted right on to the d30 inner c and would allow you to run spindles and hubs with almost any bolt pattern.

The ZJ one can be had in the 136a range at max rpm with the stock pulley but swapping on our 4.0 pulley will net a bit more idle amps which is crucial. They are all GM hairpin style alternators and there are large and small case options. I finally went with a Singer 240a alternator which requires the same slight clearancing if the alternator bracket. Used an external adjustable regulator set to 14.2 v and eliminated the ecu regulator. Works great!

If your up for modifying the ZJ style backing plate then consider doing the Wilwood kit linked in the brake thread. It’s made to fit the 90+ D35 just like the ZJ and comes standard with duel piston calipers and 12” rotors. You can move on up to even 6 piston calipers with that backing plate. I don’t have the part numbers for the other caliper options but there is another member here who does. I think he posted into build thread with that info.

Let’s clarify a few things here. The kit that fits 90/91+ d44/d35 and 8.25 will NOT bolt on to original XJ/MJ D44s. It can be modified to fit but it’s basically just a set of d35 ZJ backing plates with Exploder or ZJ rotors. Treadles does make a kit that is supposed to be bolt on for earlier model D35’s and D44s. Non c-clip d35s (89 and earlier) and XJ and MJ D44’s have the same mounting flange pattern. TJ d44’s and 90+ D35s as well as 8.25’s share the same flange pattern. The ZJ backing plate has to be slightly enlarged for the tj d44 and the xj 8.25. Easily done with a dremel. Also as @Garvin mentioned, you’ll need a press and might as well replace the axle bearings and seals while your in there. Just remember, your really not gaining any additional braking power when going to an exploder/ZJ caliper and rotor setup. I’d look into doing at least a dual piston caliper with 12” rotor for all the work it entails. The ZJ rear disk setup is an easier swap on the newer d35/tj d44 and xj 8.25. Here is some info on the variations of the teraflex kit: