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Sweet!

No worries! I just happened to be in a position to reply but there is a wealth of knowledge here from all users. For your pinion angle, it does depend on the style of driveshaft you have. Here is an example and explanation: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles In summary, if you have a stock driveshaft, you pinion angle should be parallel to the transfer case output shaft or 1-3 degrees above that. The reason for the 1-3 degrees above parallel is to compensate for axle rotation and/or weight in the bed. This helps maintain that parallel angle as the pinion moves.

Those are super nice. I’ve seen them on JeepSpeed rigs running season after season. Any ballpark idea what the pricing is on a custom set?

It’s a reprogramming kit that adjusts shift points as well as provides for a true 1st gear hood when in 1-2. Downshifts much quicker and doesn’t hunt through gears as much. The single kit comes with a couple of different installation options depending on how agressive or smooth you want your shifts to be. NAXJA also has some good write ups on the kit.

The 4 leaf pack netted me about 2.5” of lift compared to original 4 leaf 4x4 springs that were still in pretty decent shape. Keep in mind that the factory rake was about 1.75” on most MJ’s. There is a bit of room for “leveling” a little if you want to go that route. You could run a 3-3.5” front spring and the 4 leaf General Spring rears and always play around with longer shackles and or coil spacers to get the stance you like.

That’s a good start. Unfortunately, there isn’t just a “kit” that will accomplish everything your looking for but here are some of the pieces if you would like to go this route. I’ll post some links that may be helpful: Steering brace setup; https://ironman4x4fab.com/collections/on-sale/products/xj-steering-box-brace Note: you will need the sway bar drop brackets if your running an original style sway bar. You can also get the spacer if you like to reinforce the stock mounting points. Track bar setup: https://ironman4x4fab.com/collections/comanche-mj/products/xj-track-bar-system Note: just get the regular style bracket if you staying with 3-4.5” lift 28mm oem sway bar: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/ Note: make sure your current setup isn’t already the 28mm bar. Also, you will need the 28mm bushings as well. Available at any auto parts store. Just search for a 94 XJ and ask for the 28mm ones. This link is for a NOS original Mopar sway bar. The price is unbeatable. Rear axle bracketry for spring under: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/DEAV-WIYP.html Note: this is for a 3” axle tube so about 5/32” of welding to fill the gap on each side will be required. You will also need some shock tabs: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/SBRKT-CUR.html These are what I’ve been running on multiple Jeeps now and they are nice. Optional 4 link: https://ironman4x4fab.com/collections/suspension/products/xj-front-4-link-system Note: there are plenty of other options out there but few with this level of build quality for any less. This will replace all the mounting points from your existing 4 link setup. Youll need to source a regular pitman arm from an XJ or MJ. Here are some springs that will net you about 3” of lift in the rear: https://www.generalspringkc.com/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-rear-leaf-spring-5-3-2-leaf-1700-lbs-capacity/ Note that the lead time on these is out a few months right now. Other options include, hells creek: http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/springs/Springs.aspx in addition to custom springs from Alcan and National (approx 600-800/pr last I checked but these are custom built for you). Finally, you could just get a hood used set and add a leaf into the pack. Some have great results with this setup. Unfortunately the aftermarket hasn’t really jumped into producing rear lift springs for an MJ.

Good to factor in the parasitic loss in the auto tranny also as well as the increased rolling mass of those 32’s. I still hunt for gears with a pepped up 4.0 and 4.56’s on 33’s with the aw4. But that’s what the transgo shift kit is for

If your asking for the best booster out there, hydroboost hands down. As for vacuum boosters, first make sure you have good vacuum at engine idle (min 18hg). A dual diaphragm booster with (2) 8” is similar sized booster plates will work decently. A lot of you braking also comes from your rotor condition, pad material and prop valve setup if your tuning disks. You master cylinder bore to caliper piston area is also crucial. For stock calipers and ZJ rear calipers, 15/16” bore is great. You can find those on later mode XJ’s. I’m running a 01 XJ booster and MC on my 91 along with a Wilwood prop valve ZJ rear disks and black magic pads with centric rotors all around. After a good pad break in, they work very very well for a rig of this size and weight.

Interesting. Several things jumó out from the pics. First, there are only 3 leaves in that spring pack. I’m guessing somebody swapped to spring over axle but thought it sat too high and removed a leaf. Your load capacity will be reduced with just 3 leaves as will your axle wrap prevention. Such a low spring rate in back will probably be very soft around the corners and will affect steering. In front, the pitman arm is definitely a dropped unit. This can put undue stress on the steering box which already has a pretty flimsy mount from the factory. The pitman arm and track bar setup are both aftermarket but it’s hard to say if they are maintaining parallel angles from the pictures themselves. If you were to take a straight edge across the track bar mounting points and another on the drag link mounting points, the two lines should be as close to parallel as possible to prevent “bump steer.” Furthermore, although some may differ on this point, I am not much of a fan of the radius arm style long arm kit. When you have only two links going to the front axle with two shorter arms coming from the long arms, you cannot maintain proper caster angle when going over bumpy roads or “swoops” on a paved road. They are also not as safe in my opinion since you have only 2 points of contact to the truck vs the original 4. A full 4 link kit would be ideal. Also looks like your original lower control arm brackets were removed. As for the Zone kit, they do have some decent quality but are meant for a stock rig. You will need to change some of your existing parts to use the zone kit and achieve the lift your looking for. in regards to steering also, I am 90% positive that is the stock MJ/XJ tie rod. It’s a thin walled hollow tube that will pretzel up on you if you look at it the wrong way on 33’s. If you want to get 3-4.5” of lift I’d recommend something like this: Switch back to spring under and get some good new brackets in place with proper shock mounts. Ballistic or Ruff stuff specialties have some great quality brackets. You’ll have to stay long arm up front unless you replace the factory brackets. TNT, Clayton and Iron Man 4x4 (personal favorite) all make excellent genuine 4 link long arm kits. Or you could always keep what you have if your comfortable running that. Most of those companies can provide springs as well but there are so many spring options for the front. Zone and BDS are good as are metalcloak, Old man emu and others. Rubicon express is also ok. Rough country, skyjacker etc are at the bottom of the barrel. Good marketing and a few of their products are decent but in general they have a bad rep. Currie steering setup (CE-9701) Ironman 4x4 track bar and steering brace system would be best. You can do without a drop pitman at 3-4” of lift with the Currie linkage.

Are you referring to that thin little spacer plate that goes between the bellhousing and the block?

Still out in the ocean for now

The Cherokee bumper does not fit. Unfortunately rear MJ bumpers are hard to come by and are one of those one-off items that are hard to source like taillights. There are a few aftermarket options though if your interested in going that route.

I’m assuming it’s an add a leaf rear?

I’ve decided to set aside my stand alone project for the time being and will be listing the system for sale if anyone is interested. I’ll be moving in the near future and don’t have time to work on this at the moment. In the mean time, hood has been completely refinished with a lot of custom work for a much sleeker design. Have all the hardware degreased and now soaking in rust remover. Will install tomorrow.

4.56 for sure if your getting new gears. The auto tranny is a power hog. An ax15 might be fine with 4.10

Should be warmer outside by then lol

That’s a great deal on a parts truck. Some very good body parts on that rig. @Pete M

All these Dana 44’s had to pop up when I’m overseas! I’m sure when I start looking for one again I won’t find a single one…

Inside of hood curing

Some other thoughts come to mind first. You mentioned an unstable feeling when you hit a bump, what kind of steering and track bar setup are you running? My current setup that is also about a 5.5-6” lift is the following: Iron Man 4x4 steering brace system, track bar system with 1” drop and 1” dropped pitman arm. ZJ steering linkage (planning to upgrade to Currie CE-9701 for improved articulation range), rock road control arm drop brackets, metal cloak control arms and dual rate coils, bilstein 5150 series with 255/70 valving, later model XJ 28mm front track bar with iron man 4x4 relocation brackets, rubicon express seat bar disconnects. In the rear I have: 4 leaf 4wd leaf springs mounted spring over axle, addco rear sway bar (part 468), new bushings, bilstein 5150 series with lighter valving, ruff stuff off-road shock and leaf spring mounting parts. The ride is superb, no bump steer, great control, very stable in the turns at speed and plenty of flex off-road once the sway bar is disconnected. I’ve never ridden in a lifted rig that performed any better. If I were to do it all over, I would have to go with iron man 4x4 long arm kit also. For shocks, the bilsteins have been nice but I would recommend you get your shocks from accutune off-road. They custom tune them to your ride and don’t cost much more than the off the shelf options. They tune bilsteins, king and fox.

An interesting update to my stand alone efi project: I’ve found that many aftermarket ecu’s don’t want to control the 4 wire iac valve on the throttle body. It’s a stepper motor design and at the very least, uses a lot of extra outputs from your new ecu. My ecu is made to control a pwm idle valve. Basically the idle valve gets constant 12v on one pin then a pulsing ground on the other pin which moves the plunger to control the air bypass. There is no valve I’ve seen that bolts into the stock throttle body. The solution? A 2005-2006 TJ 4.0 throttle body. Not sure why but they switched to a pwm idle valve which works great with the aftermarket ecu.

Took a bit of a detour and worked on the hood. The body shop that did the original body work did a terrible job so I’m redoing it all. I wanted the hood scoop to be better profiled into the hood. Also wanted to eliminate the small area behind the scoop on the hood where factory bead rolled design was. Here are some pics. Look closely and you’ll see the differences. Also had rust to eliminate as wel as filling some old bolt holes. I used a resin based filler to adhere the scoop this time and had much better results. Have just a few more spots to touch up before a final 400 grit sanding and base coat. Will also finally be installing the hood light thanks to @eaglescout526 along with restregón the latches and replacing the pushrod guides.

Chrysler SCI port. As mentioned above, it’s a diagnostic port. There are a few scanners that can read it in addition to the DRB tool from Chrysler.

It will be really close to 3” lift. I ran the GS springs also and they are a good product. The 4 leaf pack lifts 2” over a stock 4 leaf so I would assume the 5 leaf pack will be about 2.5-3” settled.

Interesting project. Just so I can understand correctly, the Jeep has been sitting for 23 years for what was supposed to be a clutch job right? Any pictures you can take of that work area or parts may also be very helpful.