PCO6

I was 36 when my 1988 MJ was new.

I mounted Hyundai Tiburon seats in my TJ, LJ & an old XJ that I had. I don't have pics of the XJ brackets I built but they were very much like the ones shown below in my LJ. I used the original LJ bases and sliders. In my XJ the XJ sliders worked better. As mentioned watchamakalit, it was basically "test and tweak". I bolted them together instead of welding them because I figured I might have to make changes. btw ... Tiburon seats are a nice way to go. I'm sure they'd fit in an MJ and they're cheap! I paid $35 ea. at an auto wrecker. Here they are in my old XJ.

Good floor mats help too. I use simple flat rubber mats in the summer but put Husky Liners in during the winter. They're a pain in the butt to remove with an inch of water (snow melt) in them so I just throw a towel on them to sop it up. That water would have made its way to the carpets and that would take months to dry up on its own.

Nice job. That looks like a great project. I have a 1986 fibreglass trailer project on the go. I knew nothing about fibreglass before I got going. It has been fun to learn and is pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it. So far I've only been patching holes but I'm going to be modifying the wheel wells and that's when things will get interesting. At our local Sportsmens Show there's a vintage boat motor display every year. The guys who are into it do a great job of restoring them. As a group they help each other to track down a lot of used parts for each other. I always stop to talk with them just to take in a bit of their passion for it.

For body rust it's usually cut and replace but if you're not quite at the rot stage flap discs and/or blasting usually works best. As for parts, I usually blast them or put them in my phosphoric acid dip tank.

Brutes are a nice conversion but the kits are expensive if they're still available (I have no idea). Here's what one looks like for those who might not know. Nice ... but not as nice as a Comanche! lol To answer an earlier question in this thread, all '04 models are automatics. '04's are good as they don't have an OPDA (Oil Pump Drive Assembly) that comes with the '05 & '06 models. If that fails it can take much of the engine with it.

I have a TJ and an LJ ('03 & '04) and bought both in salty Ontario. I drive both year round and don't baby either of them in the winter. Both models suffer from the same rust problems but there are a lot of things you can do to keep it at bay. I'm a firm believer in spraying them yourself. I use Fluid Film and there are several other good products. Like TJ's the biggest problems are going to be the front fenders and the windshield frame both of which are easy and not that expensive to replace. The worst spot on the frames is back of the doors where it starts to go over the axle. I bought my LJ knowing that I would have to replace the driver's side floor board and torque box. The previous owner used basic flat floor mats (not Husky liners for example) which leads to wet carpets and rust. The floor board was easy ... the torque box was a pain in the butt. Some of the "extras" that come with a base LJ are ... 10" longer wheel base, 14" overall length, added cargo space, Dana 44 rear end with disc brakes, 3,500 lbs. towing capacity vs. 2,000 lbs. and a soft top with tinted windows. Rubicons are quite a bit better (lockers, transfer case, etc.) Get one with a hard top if you can as they go for about $1,500 US. Mine came with one but as it was not ordered with one from the dealer I've had to track down used washer & defroster switches, hoses, wiring, double pump washer bottle, etc. As for price, you're definitely going to pay more for an LJ and more again for a Rubicon. My general observation is that US Jeeps are more expensive than Canadian Jeeps. Rust can be a factor but I even see ones in the typical US rust belt States go for more than what I see here. The key thing is to get one that was well taken care of and if you can from a non-enthusiast owner. I have 4 Jeeps and every previous owner simply saw them as a "car" they no longer wanted. Three of them were treated well, one was OK. I'm currently doing the body and paint on my LJ. I think this is the first winter since new that it's been off the road. Can't wait for next year so I can start the rusting process all over again! The Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum is a good source for TJ & LJ info. Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum

What kind of glue have you use? I used 2 cans of the 3M product I posted above and it was plenty. I had about a quarter of a can left over.

I replaced the ceiling fabric in XJ last summer. It didn't look forward to taking out all of the trim but it was a pretty easy job once I got going. The worst part was going into Fabricland. I was a bit out of my element amongst all of the old bitties who out numbered me by about 30 to 1. I bought enough fabric to do my XJ and my MJ which I'll do this summer. The cost for both was about $70. I bought grey material that's a near perfect match for the original. Being a bit heavier it was easy to work with. The sun visors in both vehicles were in great shape so I wanted to match them. The material I bought was "Winchester Coating". I think it's used in parts of coats (pockets, liners, etc.). I asked if it would help keep my Jeep warmer and the lady didn't even crack a smile. I guess they take fabric seriously. I used 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive which was very easy to work with. One can would do an MJ. 3M 77-CCVOC30-EF 77 Super Multipurpose Adhesive Aerosol, Clear 16.75 Oz. Aerosol Can: Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

This is me in my garage where I happily spend most of my time. I don't seem to have any with my MJ.

90% ... I'm OLD but a little week on Kaisers & Hudsons.

Love to see BIG projects like this. I need a longer garage! Nice work.

It was even later for Canadian Jeeps. Up until when the JK's came out in 2007 they were sold here as simply YJ's and TJ's. GM had the rights to the Wrangler name for one of its pick up trucks. I think it's what you guys would have known as a Sierra during that approximate time frame.

Old thread but I'll add my experience with restoring Turbine wheels to it, not that I should take any credit for it as I had them restored for me. Mine were rough like many of the ones above. The wheel restoration shop that did them for me blasted them, painted them silver, machine the polished surfaces enough to get rid of the pits and powder coated them with clear. The cost was $125 CDN per wheel which is about $95 US. I've had MOAB wheels blasted and powder coated for $100 CDN per wheel, about $80 US, so I thought the added cost for machining the Turbines was pretty reasonable.

Every time I see something like this I wonder what the "other" version of it looks like. You know, the car with a VW front and a Subaru back. In that case it wouldn't work though ... no engine! This one has an engine at both ends ... SuburBeetle! Subaru BRAT-VW Beetle Mashup (barnfinds.com) ... the Barn Find "comments" at the end are always worthwhile.

I've seen that pic in the past and it's what convinced me to put Turbine wheels on mine. Still looking for the centre caps though.

Both of my '88 Eliminators (1 gone) came with aluminum 10-spoke spares.

I've owned two '88 Eliminators that were built 1 month apart. My current one came from Orillia Jeep-Eagle in Orillia, Ontario and my other one came from Allandale Motors Inc. in Barrie, Ontario, neither of which are still in business. Both towns are about an hour north of Toronto and only a few miles apart. Both came with the original owners manual and warranty and maintenance guide plus other dealership documents and the original keys. I've also owned 3 XJ's ('89, '90 & '95) and coincidently they all came from Bob Bannerman Motors in Toronto which is still in business. I found a period correct Bannerman badge for my current XJ. It's an '89 and came with the original receipt that shows an employee discount of 5%. The purchaser worked on the assembly line at the Brampton plant where CJ5's & 7's were built. It's a Limited so he must have been doing all right.

Here's an internet pic (not me) that shows the difference between a 2 dr. and a 4 dr. It's just under 9".

I've owned a 4 dr. and two 2 drs. I bought a 1990 XJ Laredo new at the end of 1989 and drove it for 5 years. I loved it as my daily driver and also went on many camping and ski trips with it. To this day, my Brother who is a car although not Jeep guy, still reminds me of the times he had to get into the back seat and how hard it was. He was about 5'9" & 170 lb. at the time. I bought a 1995 2 dr. Sport in 2010. It was rough and more of a project car (new floors, cargo area floor, 2"x6" sliders, mechanical repairs, etc.). I replaced it in 2017 with my current 2 dr. 1989 Limited. It's complete, very original and runs great. It has a 2" lift and 245/75/16 Duratrac tires. I drive it year round and tow both my tear drop and off road trailers with it. The cargo area is the same as a 4 dr. and I can't say that they drive any differently. My XJ and MJ Eliminator 2WD are quite different. The MJ is almost all original and has 235/16/15 Cooper AT tires. The XJ is heavier (500 lbs.?) and although it's noticeable, it's not bad at all. I wanted to convert my MJ to 4WD but it's so light and fun to whip around in I decided not to. I have 4WD alternatives - XJ, TJ & LJ. My one regret with the XJ 2 dr. is that it's not as suitable for camping/overlanding. I have the back seat out of my 2 dr. and would do the same with a 4 dr. BUT I sure would like the easier "lean in and reach" access of a pair of rear doors. It's possible with a 2 dr. but not nearly as easy. I have to pack my camping equipment accordingly. Here's my current XJ ...

My MJ body and paint are good but I'm currently doing my LJ. I restored and painted several cars during the 70s and 80s but got away from it for many years. Things have changed since then so I'm keeping this one simple as I re-educate myself. I'm going right back to my high school VW and off road car days in the late 60s and doing it with single stage enamel. This is not a show piece, it will be used and abused and done over again as I modify, wreck and rebuild things. It's an outdoor, backyard weather dependent job using basic equipment. I'm using off the shelf Tremclad (Canadian Rustoleum) products for the most part. Most of the body was good but I have replaced sections of the floor and one torque box. I replaced the front fenders and windshield frame with repro panels. I'll be doing some patch panels on the rear fenders and they will be pretty straight forward. Anything that can come off has/will for body work and paint (fenders, doors, hood, tailgate, windshield, grill, etc.). I'm doing a colour change which also makes it extra fun. I've taken some panels down to bare metal but most of the the original paint was good so I scuffed them with Scotchbrite pads and sprayed enamel over them. Most panels have 4 coats with wet sanding as needed. Most panels will be buffed out when done (next summers job). Products are ... Primer & Paint - Tremclad enamel - "Gloss Grey" similar to Jeep "Sting Grey" and I believe the same as Rustoleum "Smoke Grey" Reducer - Varsol (mineral spirits) Hardener - Valspar Mix Ratio - generally 3:1:0.3 Filler - Bondo (very little) Here are a few pics from new fenders arriving (obligatory MJ pic) to current status ...

I have DeWalt DCF889 1/2" and DCF883 3/8" impact guns. I bought them strictly because of the other DeWalt 20V tools, batteries and chargers I have. I'd have to look up the torque specs but honestly I don't care. They work great and I can't remember the last time I used my air impact guns (Snap-on and Craftsman).

I'm sure it varies across the country and I'm guessing that in some areas very little is used. We get our fair share here (about 50 mi. north of Toronto) but I understand they are starting to use more brine. I've been told that it's worse!

CANADIAN CAR WASH ... (726) Moose licks car - Close encounter - Alberta Canada - YouTube

I have them on my '88 Eliminator and you're right, they were hard to find and I'm happy I did. I've been going to Krown Rustproofng for all of my vehicles for at least 2 decades. They're good but they miss spots and aren't consistent from year to year. They've never pulled the plugs shown in the first post for example. I've started to do my own rustproofing with a plan to drop Krown within a year or two. I do my TJ & LJ myself and they are fairly easy. One major thing they can't get to is the windshield frames which are notorious for rusting out. I just replaced the frame in my LJ with a new one and am determined to make it last. Krown said "we got it" and I knew damn well they never even touched it. I do a lot of my MJ & XJ myself. Because of the similarities you would think that Krown would drill the plug holes in the same spots. Nope. I've started to use Fluid Film and I like it. It goes on sale all the time so I stock up on the aerosols and the 1 gallon cans. I use a few different guns as they came and with a few hoses I fabricobbled. You can get a wand for the aerosols and it works surprisingly well. I don't know what's up with the price though. I got mine on Amazon for less that $20 CDN about 4 months ago and it's now $40. They also have several sizes of plugs. Fluid Film 360° Extension Wand for spray cans by Fluid Film: Amazon.ca: Home & Kitchen 1/2" 0.5 inch Flush Mount Black Plastic Body and Sheet Metal Hole Plug Qty 25 by Caplugs, Plugs - Amazon Canada Buytools Rust proofing Gun ***Free Shipping in Canada!!!: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement Astro Pneumatic 4538 Economy Air Undercoat Gun: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement