ParadiseMJ

When I got the hitch I was surprised how hefty it was. I pulled a small tree stump out with the hitch and a chain last week...something I never would have tried with just a bumper mounted ball.

That looks pretty decent, reinforcement wise. I always see step bumpers that are bent on one end or both ends and it drives me nuts. Most often it's an aftermarket step bumper that are nice and shiny on the outside and made of stamped faux diamond plate sheet metal. Also, although they have a place to put a hitch ball, are not meant for towing more than a small aluminum boat (e.g.). If you want to tow anything bigger with it, I'd recommend the guy on here (krustyballer) who makes good solid hitches and/or just hitch plates. I have one of his hitches and it is beef.

what is NO? I'm looking at my smog report and all it has is CO2, HC and CO. I passed with flying colors, zero% CO, 14.5 CO2, 20 HC. Visual was dead on. No one but me has touched this truck, and I'm an amateur. I'm pretty sure not screwing with the emissions system and so-so maintenance is the cause of most older car smog fails.

The gasket is just a little paper one, if you had it out this time or before it may not have been included...or it's torn, or just plain worn out. Besides, it's pretty much a straight shot from the pan, pump etc. If you have any obstruction in the CCV system, it may be escaping up the shaft. All I got.

I'm 5'11" too, and scrawny, they were too tall for me. I hit my head on the door jamb just about every time I got in. I found myself having to scooch down to look out the windshield. From the outside of the truck it looked like I was 6'6". They were miserable. I got another pair out of a two door for 25 bucks...so much better.

I think I'm using sprinkler drip line. :yes:

Dirt Bound Offroad $40.00 http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/optima-34-78-bolt-in-battery-tray-jeep-cherokee-xj.html

...and be gentle with the pintle. They're somewhat fragile. Don't go at it with a wire wheel... :cheers: Also, I thought when doing the fuel pressure test it was...running, one reading with vacuum to the FPR - and again with the vacuum hose disconnected from the FPR.

That sucks. Think of it as an opportunity to get a new paint job. Keep an eye out for a truck with that profile and red paint on it. Looks like a flat bed or even a lift gate?.

Unless you have a hole or damage in one of your fuel lines - check your fuel line connections. They should be the quick-connecters. All that's holding the fuel back is two O-rings and a spacer. The o-rings do get old. The O-rings are supposed to be changed every time the line is removed. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-83504447/overview/make/jeep $9 plus shipping, you'll get it in ~ 3days This is the part you need, one for each fuel line...OR...you could go to your local hardware store and match up the O-rings (they're 5/16 ID) but the thickness of the o-ring is important so take the o-ring with you....but SAVE THAT SPACER. The spacer is either black, like the picture or whitish (in between the two green O-rings in the picture). If you disconnect the fuel line and the plastic clip is OK you can re-use it...if not, buy the part. They sell clips (5/16") in the HELP section of most auto parts stores...but I've found those to be inferior, they don't "grab" as well. Disclaimer: Oh, and just in case you didn't already know this...do not drive the truck until it's fixed, not even to the store, will result in KA-BOOM and serious injury, death or loss of truck. P.S. in the picture, the white part is just packaging, the clip and 2 O-rings and plastic spacer are the working part

So when you have the belt off, spin your pulleys, see if you have any that squeak, feel grainy or bind...even a little. While the coolant could compromise the belt, coolant in the bearings could be a problem. To see if there is an issue with your HB...start the truck and rev it a few times to see if it squeaks or squeals. Could be rubbing on the timing cover...just sayin'. Having the truck running without a belt for 30 seconds or so isn't going to hurt any thing and it's a good way to isolate/eliminate the HB (I know you said it's new, but still possible)

I could siphon the tank out the old way, gas in mouth, but it only takes a little to kill you, seriously. Aspirating fuel can be deadly Using the pump to empty it is best, but if the pump is non-op it's better and safer to get a cheap hand operated siphon pump. If you're removing it, you only need to get it down to about 1/4 tank before you drop it,

How do you mean "turned around". The ribbed side goes on the ribbed pulleys and the smooth side goes on the smooth pulleys. Or did you mean something else?

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the truck be front and back wheels on the ground. If just the rear is jacked up and the front wheels are on the ground it seems the angle result will be skewed.

Check the belt tension, should be good and tight, 165 > on a Krikit II gauge. The squeal could also be the pulley.

I've had one in my MJ for 5-6 years. It makes getting into the glove box a small PITA, otherwise it keeps dash nice AND keeps the inside windshield cleaner too.

That's why I mentioned it. Water (coolant) and RTV might make a poor seal. Did you check the housing for cracks? I had a tiny crack on the inside, but I didn't think it went all the way through...it did. Just sayin'.

:fine print: = :ack:

The problem is that the t-stat can fall out of the recess while you're messing with the housing. It doesn't have to move much to make the seal...not seal. To make it water tight, stick the t-stat to the block with some RTV before you put the stat housing back on. After doing this myself back in the day, and cracking a t-stat housing, I do this: Take the front of the housing off. Remove the t-stat, remove the gasket. Clean the two surfaces so that there are no little bits of RTV, sealant etc. Make sure the same is true with the actual thermostat. Clean. Then put a few dabs (small dabs) of RTV on the engine side of the t-stat...about 4-6 small little dabs. Make sure the block, where the stat goes is dry. Place the thermostat (spring side IN) in the recessed groove on the block. Make sure it's seating in the recess on the block. Secure it there, if need be, with some masking tape...go have a beer, mow the lawn, visit some friends. After about an hour, to be sure, and after the RTV has somewhat set, don't touch it...put a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the gasket, paste it to the housing and carefully cover the t-stat with the cover. Bottom bolt first, top bolt second. Do not crank down on those bolts too hard, if the t-stat isn't set it can fall out...just a skosh...and keep it from sealing correctly, If you crank those bolts too hard you can and will crack the housing itself. EDIT: It's a good idea to loosen the serpentine belt to get better access to that bottom bolt.

It's not a switch...it's a whole mechanism and here's the fix. Read all the way to the end as it's possible that you just need to replace a spring. http://comancheclub.com/topic/34536-diy-e-brake-fix/

Like hornbrod said, someone detailed those out. I could probably get $100 a light without doing a thing to them IF I were to sell them, but if I ever break one I can fix the extras I have with just red, red and dark red, red and silver or red and chrome with a little paint. Besides, if I was to sell them I wouldn't try to ream someone in need of them. $300 is steep. So the $75 is a good deal IMHO

Are you asking if it's chromed metal or chrome paint? I could be way wrong but I don't believe there is any metal on any MJ tail lights...just chrome "paint"

Look at your tail and blinker sockets themselves and make sure they're not crusty, corroded. take each bulb out and look inside, clean (or replace)as necessary. X2 on looking at the headlight switch...it's a common failing part. The dimming dash points to the rheostat...it's just a big long spring, sprung out. The headlight switch isn't just for the headlights, it's a junction for running, blinks, dash, etc. Solid blinker indicators are a sign that you have a funked up socket or a blown bulb(s)

I've always used the copper spray. Both sides. The gasket itself and the clean mating surface is probably more important, and sufficient, but that's the way I learned how.

Yes, there is, but doesn't that just go to the TCU, or ECU through the main (Renix) harness. I was looking to just make that connection but I realized I might be able to just connect that to the Renix wiring and have it light up...just thinkin' outloud