Dzimm

You will have to drill a hole for one of the hvac bolts iirc it's the top right one. Once you get it in there, put the nuts on the engine bay side and it's in. To fill the larger space of the firewall where the lines come through, you can either weld in a properly sized patch or use a thick weather stripping/sealant to fill the gap. I would recommending cutting off the old hook style dash mount from the firewall before installing the hvac box otherwise it will be in the way.

^this Cherokee one would have to be heavily modified/fiberglassed or you'd have to make spacers for the front two bolts and it wouldn't sit straight. Tried the later myself and it didn't look right.

The only thing I could think of is this thing broke down outside a junkyard and that is how they got it home.. Orrrr they just crazy.

Good find! 98-99 XJs are for sure argued as the best of the best. My advice, ditch those LED headlights and get a Rampage H4 conversion kit. Night and day difference. I will never use my set of those LEDs again.

Very nice truck. As for wiring the rear it would have been way easier to run new wires. For mine, I basically took the stock XJ taillight harness, cut the wires, and extended them. This left me with the top bulbs as running lights, the middles as turn signals, and the bottom reverse lights. And both the top and middle bulbs were brake lights. Basically exactly like a 97+ XJ. Here is the link to the post last time this was asked. In my response (second post in) you will find the link to the original post with the wiring colors. It's at the header panel but the info in those two threads may help you out.

Sounds like your headlights are grounding out to the turn signal circuit. The faster flashing means it thinks a bulb is burnt out, which there isn't as you say. What was the damage like on the front end? It's possible the header wiring got pinched or broken in the crash and it's no sending current the wrong way somewhere.

It was really just an idea I had rolling around in my head.

For those lawyer types out there, what might the legal issues be if someone were to use a 3d printer to reproduce and sell some of the discontinued plastic vehicle parts for older vehicles?

If you don't want to mess with replacing the yoke, you can drill the holes out while they are still on the truck. It's not fun but I did it in about an hour with a corded drill and some good drill bits. Just be sure to use lubricating oil if you do this. IMO it was easier to drill them out than to replace the yoke so you don't have to worry about the pinion preload. If you replace the yoke you have to be very careful to get the proper preload or you will blow your gears apart.

Go the penetrating oil route first. If that doesn't work alone, try using a chisel and hammer to tap around the nut to help break it loose. If they won't come loose after that, you are pretty much stuck breaking them off. You can try heat but an open flame that close to carpet is not a good idea.

Actually you may be on to something there. I could put the turbo in the indent where the t-case would normally go to keep it close to the front since I'll be 2wd. Then pipe the intake up through the center console and out through the firewall on the passenger side and up into the intake manifold. Not exactly sure where to mount the intercooler on this setup tho. My original plan was just to mount the turbo where the stock intake would go but that would require rediculous fab work on the exhaust. I definitely like the remote idea better, especially since I could mount so far forward.

I actually thought about this originally but I want to keep costs as low as possible and I really want to keep the 4.0 in the truck to stay all Jeep. I did the 97+ swap on my current truck and honestly don't want to go through swapping a drivetrain again right now. I really want to dabble in the boosted side of things and see what I can do but I do agree, it would definitely be more straight forward to do an ls swap.

No unfortunately life got in the way so I didn't get any further than my research. Hopefully in the next year or so I'll be able to actually do it. I don't have time to watch this video right now but I'll definitely check it out! I never did decide on exactly what turbo to use but the concensus I found was Garret brand is the top dog.

I've never seen that done before but I'm sure it's possible. The thing about it tho is that the top of the belt needs to be mounted above the shoulder. If its mounted below the person's shoulder and you get into an accident, it will tighten and compress their spine. This is why all shoulder belts are mounted high in the B-Pillar. I don't understand how companies can get away with the belts that feed into the top of the seat, they all sit lower than my shoulder (I'm 6'4) so I sit slouched slightly so I'm under it. Read up on it for more detail. You certainly could take a shoulder belt assembly from an XJ and it would work just fine but you would need to make a bracket that stuck up from behind the seat about halfway up the rear window to mount the top of the belt.

Do it to the whole thing and go until there is no rust left at all, all bare steel is best. It will go faster with a flap disk. If it does go through the metal anywhere, cut and weld in new. When you are done you will seal and paint it. Most people will say POR15 is the best thing to use. I've never used it, but I've only ever seen people praise it.

Spoilers Pete! I haven't seen it full form yet...don't worry I closed my eyes.. Welcome Matt, glad to see it on the trails instead of the shop. First question, so far, which so you like better, Scorpion or Comancheep?

Looks perfect for a 97+ swap option as well.

That's exactly why I did it, direct plug and play but I used a Dakota pump/sender with an adapter so the pickup would reach the bottom of the tank, it sends the same fuel pressure and signal as the XJ sender, just a different plug. The XJ pump assembly is too short and leaves a couple gallons at the bottom of the tank from what I've read. The larger 22.5gal Dakota tank does fit under the swb, all you need to do is bend a small section of the tank in to clear a frame brace and it will end up with a couple inches of clearance from the driveshaft and rear diff. I wasn't sure if it would fit but I didn't want to deal with the 15 gallons the small tank gave so I tried the big one and it worked. Below are pictures of it, the tank, the dent it needs, how it fits, and how much clearance there is from the rear axle. I don't have any pictures of the driveshaft clearance but it clears by a couple inches because of the dent without the dent it would rub for sure. I also used 97+ XJ straps to hold it in place.

Better yet the seller claims one broken mounting tab yet the other one is clearly cracked.

Wonder what fell on the drivers side of the bed.

Sounds like you have a Dakota tank under there. If it's rubbing the driveshaft the OP didn't install it correctly. You must dent top corner of the tank to clear the frame rail bracket and it will suck it far enough away from the driveshaft that you will have no issues. Super easy to do and will cost you $0 and about an hour of your time. Post up a picture to confirm what tank it has. All the info for the Dakota tank swap is in my build thread linked in my signature (fuel tank info is on the first page in the middle of the first post). I'm running a 98 Dodge Dakota 22.5 gallon fuel tank and sender in my truck and it works great, and yes it clears the driveshaft by about 3 inches. Bought a Mopar adapter to plug the Dakota sender into the factory Jeep wiring and works with the 97+ gauge cluster.

You really just need a bar run across the back of the cab to keep the kayaks off the cab correct? They will sit at an angle upward towards the front of the truck? If that's the case, you can buy drip rail brackets for an XJ and a section of steel pipe. Weld the brackets to the pipe and you got yourself a removable bar to rest them against. How high would the kayaks stick up above the cab if you did this? Too high and they will catch wind and cause bad mpg or fly out of the truck.

The only upside I can really see is for tall people like myself who always, no matter how many times you've done it, manage to smack their head on the gate. Every freakin time.. It's even worse when you fit under one XJs gate due to a lift, and then open a stock height one.. Anyway its kinda cool but more work than it's worth IMO.

I have a tilt column shift that came in my 90 Eliminator. It's a little sloppy but not too bad. It's the gray color and pretty dirty from sitting in the shed. I'm willing to sell it but have no idea how to go about shipping it at a decent price.