Dzimm

Very sad news. My condolences to Don's family. We will surely miss having him around here. Rest in peace friend.

Yeah that's no fun. The solar eclipse last year we had a storm roll through right when it happened..

Similar view here in Des Moines, Iowa

Looking forward to this build but good God man how tall are you? I'm 6'4" and hardly fit in my 97+ truck due to the bigger dash and taller seats but have no trouble in my 92 5speed unless I'm wearing boots.

Wow just wow

I would retain the way the factory built it. It's gotta be there for a reason. I'm not usually that way but on an engine component I wouldn't take the chance. That's just my thoughts on it.

I love my Rusty's 4.5" kit as well. Gets the job done and doesn't break the bank. I'll second this. Sold my stock MJ leaves for a decent profit.

I'll start by saying I'm not 100% sure here but I'm thinking it should work only if you are putting the non-CA ECU in a CA truck. Same drivetrain and both HO so I see no reason it wouldn't. From what I know of CA trucks it's just more O2 sensors and cats so I see no reason for the ECU to not just ignore the extra sensors, or you could just unplug them entirely and it won't see them. If it does have issues with the multiple cats, replace the exhaust with a single cat. Now if you live in CA and need to have inspection, then you will need a proper CA ECU and exhaust or they will prolly throw a fit at an inspection. Again I'm not 100% sure so we'll see what others have to say.

Heck yeah! Stickers are nice to have. I like all three, minus the small flag out the back of the first one.

3D copies you say? You have the ability to 3D print the front air dam??

With as much work as they've done to it, I imagine it's got a ton of miles, rebuilt motor, or brand new motor.

What are the chances it's actually a police/rescue vehicle? Pretty cool either way.

I do not appear to have an option for it wether I do a standard reply or quote your post. Edit: holy cow I just figured out that the plus symbol quotes without sending you to the text box!

That could actually work... Hmmmm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E35W38/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_6nvoCb3X1SSAB I'm pretty sure it's this

Dang, wrong country. Turn it over by hand to make sure it's not bound up, then I would prolly pull the head off as well as the oil pan and inspect everything in the bottom end before reassembling. You can find out a lot about an engine by investigating the head gasket and cylinders.

That all really depends on how much money and time you want to put into it. How many miles on the new engine and have you seen/heard it run? At a bare minimum I'd say do the oil pan, pump, rear main, and all the freeze plugs since those are difficult to do while in the truck. You could do the timing chain and gears but I've never heard those as being an issue unless the motor is at like 400k miles. If you have the money and time, change out the exhaust manifold because the factory ones crack and do the valve cover gasket. Side note, where are you located? I'd take that blown motor off your hands if you were close.

Silver as in chrome? My truck came without a rear bumper I'm pretty sure. I've seen them in black as well as the tube style bumper on Eliminators. It probably depends on how it was ordered, back then there were seemingly limitless options you could order.

This^^^

For cheap yeah just go Rustoleum. I'd recommend rattle can it unless you have the equipment to properly spray it on. Do proper prep and primer and the paint will last a good while.

It's amazing some of the stuff Jeep made back then. I wish there was an article like this for attachments made for the CJs. Would be incredibly long. And yeah, worth a stupid amount. I'm sure they didn't sell a ton of those so there may not be any left. I certainly wouldn't want to drive it though, little crosswind and I'm sure they tipped easy.

I came across this article and it actually answers some questions and probably shuts this whole thing down. http://injectordynamics.com/articles/fuel-pressure-explained/ So both the HO and 97+ are return fuel systems, the HO just has the return and regulation done in the engine bay whereas the 97+ is done right there at the pump. The 97+ rail is constantly at 49psi, I haven't tested an HO rail to see what that pressure is doing but I would guess it is constant as well given that the article makes it sound like everything is controlled by the injectors themselves as long as they maintain the pressures they need. As far as the different regulation systems, the vacuum controlled just seems to be a more primative system and Chrysler moved away from it in the late 90s for the newer style fuel regulator on the pump that, I'm guessing is just preset at providing 49psi since it has no other controls. The problem I forsee now though is that the article states the higher fuel pressure in the rail creates a higher effective pressure across the injectors. If the tables in the stock ecu are set for a certain fuel pressure, I suppose it wouldn't work to run the higher pressure fuel system and still retain the stock HO ecu without the Jeep running super rich because the computer is assuming the fuel pressure in the rail.

Yes "AS IS" is something to be aware of for sure, especially if the seller is requiring it. If you were making an offer on a place you can offer "AS IS" to make your offer slightly more appealing and if you talk to your realtor, they may have a way to word the "AS IS" portion to get you out certain situations as was the case with ours. We had "AS IS" in our purchase agreement on that house with fire damage but we were able to get out of it due to the wording in the offer. Like you said, building code violations can potentially void this as well as the fact it wasn't disclosed and yet the sellers made the mistake of saying their inspector said it was fine, unintentionally telling us they knew about it before hand. The sellers could have gotten into a ton of legal trouble by trying to force the sale on that one.

https://www.jeep.com/history.html

They shouldn't be hard to replace but be prepared for it to be rusted in place and near impossible to get off. Ive got one with very little rust but it's still stuck in place and won't budge.