Dzimm

It's still doesn't fix the front bracket. You can't have two shackles on one spring otherwise the entire spring would move forward and backwards. These would definitely be potentially useful for other situations and maybe this one if there was a better bolt in way available for one of the ends of the leaf spring. There just isn't anything bolt in for both ends of the spring that wouldn't lift the truck considerably.

Yeah that's the slosh pan, basically when fuel is low it will keep a good amount of fuel next to the fuel pump so it doesn't suck air when cornering or hard acceleration and all the fuel wants to move to the side or back of the tank. It should already have holes in it to allow fuel in and out, it only takes one hole in the slosh pan and the fuel level will be the same throughout the tank all the way to empty. Too many holes could cause the problem I mentioned above. I would double check it to see if it has any holes in it, if it does I wouldn't add anymore. If for some reason it doesn't, I'd add one hole, two at most and they need to be at the very bottom of the pan.

Why are we having this discussion again? I feel like everytime someone asks about the spring perch differences there are always suggestions for ways of doing it without moving the perches. This is some of the most complicated ways of reinventing this wheel I've seen so far. There are bolt in spring relocation brackets for the XJ that could possibly be made to work on the MJ but keep in mind how tall this truck would be with some sort of bolt in relocation brackets as all the bolt in ones provide lift. It's already gonna be super tall going spring over, add in another 4"+ for the relocation brackets and you'll end up North of 10" of lift. Also would like to point out that if you put shackles on both ends of the spring, the entire axle would shift forward and backward as the shackles move and would probably hop and vibrate itself to death if it moved at all without exploding the trans, driveshaft, or diff. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for thinking outside the box but this horse has been beaten to death so many times, the easiest, safest, most cost effective and strait-forward solution is to relocate the perches, regardless if you have a welder or not. Last set I had welded on cost me a case of beer.

Diagram someone made a while back. 1.5" difference in location.

I personally purchased the Zosi 8 camera kit off Amazon and bought the HDD separate for it because the bring your own HDD kit was cheaper than the plug and play one. It's super easy to use and has motion detection with mobile alert that I've never tried. I have the views showing the street slightly so I worry if get notifications for every passing car. Ours is just setup behind the living room entertainment center and has an HDMI input I can select and see anytime on the TV. No sort of monitoring service or emergency contact service but has a mobile app that you can view/playback anywhere. Only cost is the initial purchase of the kit. Wiring has video and power in one cable, need a power strip wherever the DVR is located for power. 2 cameras per power brick. I also purchased some additional signs/window stickers politely letting anyone know that they would be met with deadly force upon entry. .40S&W on the hip, plenty more firepower within reach.

You could also post in the Wanted section for a stock bracket or check the junkyards near you. Any MJ or XJ of any year should have the same bracket I believe. A used stock bracket will work fine as long as the holes aren't wobbled out.

For the bracket, search "Jeep XJ trackbar bracket" it's the same for MJ and XJ but you'll get more results under XJ. Almost all the aftermarket ones available are going to use a heim joint rather than ball joint style trackbar so you'll want to coordinate the trackbar with what style bracket you get.

Definitely a little higher. It's not too terrible to drive that high. With my small tires and 3.73 I run about 2650rpm at 70. With my stiff suspension, loud exhaust, ect, it's not the most pleasant. I certainly wouldn't want to drive it on the interstate every day.

Heck yeah! I doubt you'll have any issues on the interstate with your current tires.

Nice work on the axle. Looks really good!

I must have read your post wrong. Rereading it sounds like you are doing a 97+ conversion on your truck but want to keep the pedal brake? In that case I don't think it's possible to keep it as the steering column brace/ dash mount goes right there. I'll go take a peak at my 97+ truck to see what kind of room you have there when fully assembled.

If you have the tools you could try to drill/cut the stud out and reuse your bracket you have but if you damage the finished surface at all, it's junk. Personally, I got a used stock bracket for free and put it on my truck. In your shoes currently, I'd search around for a stock replacement as well as check pricing on aftermarket ones. The aftermarket is usually going to be thicker and stronger so if the price isn't too bad, I'd go that route. All comes down to what you want to spend on fixing it. P.S. in case you aren't aware, it's exactly the same as an XJ so search under XJ, you will get more results.

As stated, it's a partial 97+ swap, a full 97+ swap would be everything including drivetrain and interior. The big differences on the front end is the wiring and the physical shape. The 97+ is more rounded and won't match your existing fenders at all, also the plug is completely different so you'll have to rewire it to get all the lights to work. Your easiest option is to find a 96- XJ/MJ front end to replace it as it's plug and play. RockAuto carries them iirc. If you insist on doing the 97+ front end, although not required I'd highly recommend getting the fenders as well so it matches. There are also a few threads floating around for wiring up the lights.

As soon as I started reading this thread I thought to myself, oh god please don't cut it.... Cutting it off ruined your chances of getting it out, I learned this the hard way as well. It's tapered so you won't be able to hammer it up and out, also now you will never get the nut off as the stud will just spin when finally do get it to turn. You need to start shopping for a new trackbar bracket at this point.

It won't work in the factory XJ position with the bench seat as the handle position is way too far back. Also you will have to build yourself a passthrough either by welding in the XJ parts, or build a bracket to support the XJ parts above the floor, and run the cable through the original MJ cable grommet. I chose the later option on my red truck, I used the 96- handbrake but the concept is the same, just a little different mounting. I actually used the MJ parking brake cable attachment point for mine rather than the XJ parts as I didn't have them. It fits between the bench and console ok but at full pull, it contacts the console. Would work well with a shorter handle, which you may have to do in your case because it barely clears the older dash, I'm almost positive it wouldn't clear the 97+ dash.

Been a while since I've heard that. Almost as annoying as the dialup tone back then... Kind of nostalgic now. PS - Pete being wrong about an MJ thing? I ain't hunting no sky pigs yet!

Be very cautious about doing this. It works well for performance cars and such but when you throw in the dirt and mud that a Jeep sees, the dirt can't escape the wrap and I've seen some guys have there headers rust completely through because of it.

this is gonna be an awesome truck!

My 90 Eliminator (bucket seats) had column shift. Seems they could have been ordered either way.

I'm not sure I've ever seen a full snorkel setup that doesn't use the factory airbox. And agree with the above, I'd dig around for pics of an XJ, far more likely to find those. I wish I could help more but I've only done cowl intakes, never a full snorkel.

Whatever you do, run 0 gauge wiring to the amp, don't mess with the cheaper kits that have 6ga and the like, also always make sure the ground is at least equal size (preferably larger) to the positive wire, preferably these are both 0 gauge. Also plan on running the wiring through the firewall, for the love of God DO NOT run wires through the door frame..

I would jack the front end up and spin everything by hand to see if it spins freely. Check each thing you did, one at a time and examine really closely, especially for differences between the sides. With that much binding I would imagine you'd hear/see it when turning by hand. If you can't find it outside the diff, pull the diff cover and do an inspection inside there.

I'd agree highly likely the u-joint. Mine went from clicking to sounding like bolts in a blender. Found needle bearings fused together as well as ground into dust. Very little visible movement in the u-joint with mine being completely destroyed. You may not even notice any movement in yours being just a click.

Yeah I read a lot of good things about them. I messaged them at midnight last night asking if the ETA was accurate and got a response before 9am this morning. They have pushed out the estimates just due to the corona fiasco, more accurate estimate is closer to two weeks just want to give themselves a bit of extra window in case something happens. Had a bit of a conversation with the person as well. So far impressed by their customer service.

Yeah there was a few options out there for a no lift box. They didn't all tie into the back support, which is crucial for me since my floor is compromised. The price was right for this one and came with the nut strips, which is super nice. Most of them don't and they are freakin expensive by themselves.