Dzimm

Yeah I could probably get all the dimensions I needed off of that.

If someone got me good pictures and dimensions of the hole I could possibly make a model and 3D print one.

Too bad about the MJ getting crushed, glad you got the good stuff from it! Quite a good haul there.

I would be very hesitant to use a power tool or welder on it. I'm assuming that's extremely thin so the wire wheel could eat through it or catch it and break it more. Welder would probably just melt it (I'm assuming it's thin like the XJ/MJ headlight retainer), I'd try soldering it personally. All you need for electrolysis is a bucket, baking soda, water, and a battery charger. It works very well and is no effort on your part. Also only strips the rust off so all the good metal stays. No chance of damaging it further.

You could try to repair it. Use electrolysis to clean the rust and then solder in some new thin sheet to fix the crack.

I'd go the DIY route. I changed the carrier out in my Libby C8.25 for an LSD. Mine came with the bearings installed already and I left the pinion alone, otherwise I swapped the ring gear to the new carrier and had to setup the gears. First time I've ever done gears and I triple checked everything over and over and it seems it's correct as it drives fine. Will be cracking it open here soon to do the first fluid change. Give it a shot! Can always take it to someone later if you hit a point you aren't comfortable moving forward.

Yeah pretty fair price to start with assuming there are no hidden issues. Offer a little less and try to make a deal! You should be able to add pictures directly with the "add files" option in the reply box. You are limited on upload size so don't add too many at a time.

I'd also recommend the 4". Less to deal with going that route and tire size beats lift in real world application anyway. Also I don't believe even at 6.5" lift that you'd need an sye. What are you running for drivetrain, axles, and gear ratio?

I have also never heard of it. Probably some new fangled ticktock craze or some shizz

Any XJ fender up to 1996 will match your truck. 97+ XJ fenders bolt up just the same but they have a rounded top as opposed to the squared off top edge so it doesn't visibly match the 96- front panel. If you struggle to find the 96- fenders, you can swap over the 97+ front panel to match the newer fenders if needed. It is also bolt on but requires adapting the headlight wiring.

Sorry referencing mine won't help you . I am building a street truck so I lowered it with small tire. It's SUA but the spring change will net the same amount of change weather it's over or under.

Bamboo may expand/contract more I'd just take up the last row and rip it down another 1/4" - 1/2".

I'll have to look. I don't think it's very far.

On my 92 I got 2"-2.5" of drop in the rear by swapping the middle two springs with the middle two of a used XJ pack. So it's MJ main, XJ second, XJ third, MJ overload. With a new XJ pack I'd guess you'd be right around 2" of drop to start with. Just know that you will severely limit your carrying capacity as the XJ springs are not nearly as strong as the MJs. You could still haul more than 500lbs but it will squat a lot more than it does with stock MJ springs.

It is amazing to me how people have a plaque in their face that literally tells them they have a special truck but they don't care to pay attention to it. Just another old crappy truck to most people.

I'm sure something will turn up. Maybe some chrome headlight bezels to go with the grille.

"one finishing touch to the wall of NOS" we all know this is not a true statement Pete.

I don't believe it's in the NEC code not to run romex trough conduit. But you are correct it is due to the heat issue that people shy away from it. If the conduit is properly sized you wouldn't have an issue and should absolutely be in conduit if it's in an unprotected area such as on the outside of a wall. As you mention, it is generally best to run individual conductors through conduit.

How did the other cams work for you? I'm personally interested in finding something that will give me quick response and acceleration over anything else.

The ongoing discussion in the 800+ HP post over on the Pub has got me wondering about actually achievable power increases we could attain 'relatively' easily. We have all heard and talked about bored TB, injectors, horseshoe intake, ect, More specifically I'm curious about camshafts available for the 4.0. Does anyone know of camshafts that increase power without causing other negative affects for this motor? What auxiliary upgrades may be required to swap in an agressive cam? I've never really dig into it to get the info but in sure some of you have read up on this.

Cool to see we've gotta few musically talented people here. I am certainly not one of them. I've got a crappy cheapo First Act electric and an Epiphone Les Paul hanging on the wall. Have picked them up here and there but never enough time to really devote to it. I can play a few riffs and some mean Smoke on the Water tho. I admire anyone who can write their own music. Tried that years back when I was really learning and got nowhere real fast.

As stated, full strip of the front half of the truck. Plenty of build threads on 97+ swaps that's how the process. There is a little fab work here and there but overall it's mostly bolt in.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/36982/tuner-pushes-the-legendary-jeep-4-0-liter-straight-six-all-the-way-to-861-hp

I've got a cheapo wrench set from Farm & Fleet and the box end fits in the gap. I've noticed that some brands do have very large wrenches, Dewalt being one of the worst offenders. Just run to the store and get the thinnest wrench you can. Don't start hacking things apart.

I've gone through county twice. Once didn't have to show and once showed up for two days, sat there for half the day and got excused. I'd imagine federal is going to operate similarly. Basically they have many times as many people they actually need "on call". Reason for this is that cases may not actually happen. There can be any number of reasons for a trial to be cancelled right up to when it's about to start. If you get told to report, you will show up and meet in a room with a whole bunch of other potential jurors (around 100 people when I went, and cancelled trials is why I was excused). Not sure how this will work with Covid. You sit in this room and wait. At some point they will bring everyone into an empty courtroom and give you a quick run through of how the system works and then send you back to wait. After a bit someone will come in, rattle off names and those people are instructed to follow. This will happen a couple times for the various hearings happening that day. If you get called, you go and follow instructions. If you don't get called, around lunchtime they will dismiss you with further instructions. (We were instructed to return the next day until the end of the week, which is when we were dismissed). In your case, I would call the county and explain you are also going through federal at the same time. They will likely push your county duty back, they will not cancel it, just put you in a pool in the near future. (In college I was selected for jury duty back home, several counties over. I called and they simply moved my term for Christmas when I'd be back on break. Before Christmas break I moved into a house near school and changed my permanent address. I was then selected in my new county within a few months). Basically they will find you! The verbiage about "serving a jury" has to do if you actually sit in on a trial. I know for county, if you serve as a juror through an actual trial, you cannot be selected again for I think a year. If you had served in the past year, you'd call and be dismissed immediately. It sounds like you can however serve federal and county in the same year. Check with your employer and see what they do for jury duty. They will want to know asap anyway. My employer paid out during jury duty plus you get paid for jury duty by the county. Was nice to get paid to sit around and do nothing all week.