cruiser54

Remind me sometime and I'll do a post on torque bias. I may have it saved somewhere.

Somebody here on CC bought my seatbelt collection......

As a user of the Torsen 1, and working with the company (Gleason) back in the 80s, the unit had no clutches. didn't need them. And it doesn't "bind". I had units both front and rear in my Nissan Patrol and Jeep full size Cherokee Chief equipped with Quadratrac, The Cherokee was my demo vehicle for the most part.

Have you checked for pressure at the master cylinder outlet?

Nice find!! I probably have some relay covers.....

Most Torsens will not work with C-clip axles. At least the original cross-axis originals. That could be a deal breaker. Not sure about what other products got added to the line over the years that aren't the true Torsen design.

Yes. My friend's Dad invented the original Torsen and I worked for Gleason Corporation.

If they had one for a Dana 35 rear in a Jeep, they would list it.

You had one for a Dana 35?

Good luck finding one.

We need to know what YOU have in order to answer your question accurately........

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAP OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 63 COMMENTS This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2) 10-26-16

#12 wire will be fine. Just harvest another screw from the inner fender and match it up.

It's adjustable on it's mounts.

Absolutely true!!!!! ^^^^^^

Here's something to do: http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

AGREED

Also, with an 87, you should go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5 soon.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

easy. I have a tutorial on my website.

Bypass it in about 10 seconds and see what happens. Go to my website and complete Tips 1,3,4 and 5.

Did you test the fuses or just "peek" at them? Easy to test with a simple test light. They should have power on both sides of the fuse. The fuses are made with little handy places to check for voltage while installed.

Same cam 87 to 96. Maybe longer. No more torque anywhere than what a Renix had.

Starting fluid $5.