cruiser54

flex joint is a good idea.

Lost a total of 30 pounds. Still keeping it off. No problem. Feeling even better. I've gone to a naturopath/MD and have been able to ditch some of my meds, most of them, energy level and stamina increased further. Had to get new glasses to compensate for better vision!! That hasn't happened in over 50 years!! I am on a completely plant based diet. I love it. I get to eat a lot and stay at an ideal weight. My wife is totally onboard and cooks up great stuff. Forks Over Knives is something to look into. And, thanks for asking!!

do the Tips..... 1,3,4, and 5 for starters. Make sure the vacuum line from throttle body to MAP is good. Snug up your intake manifold bolts.

Most always simply snugging the bolts works fine.

Begin with Tips 1 through 5. Also make sure your intake manifold bolts haven't loosened up. Make sure this tube has no vacuum leaks.

There is no such thing as a J10 Comanche that I know of. Your Jeep J10 is an SJ model. Comanches are MJ models. Two different ducks.

Call Clifford Performance. They probably have what you need. https://cliffordperformance.net/store/ols/categories/jeep-25840?page=1

don't wait.....

Did the same on my old 88. LOL

The axle assemblies interchange from inner C to inner C. Gear ratios must match your rear axle of course. The axle in the photo is high pinion. High vs low pinion is another discussion. Not a huge deal for most folks in the way they use their Jeeps.

That connector comes apart just like the c101 but with less room to work. 7mm or 1/4" deep socket in the middle on the engine bay side. Unhook battery first. Clean it just like a C101 and tighten up the spade(s) as you see fit.

cummins93 is here on CC and CF. He dies em right,

CAD STINKS The big issue is that the CAD system only fails when you need it the most. Kinda like when you don't realize your wiper blades need replacing until it rains.... I know somebody’s system works and he advocates keeping it stock, but my exposure to the failures is probably hundreds of times greater than his, as a result of being Service Manager at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992, and being a current XJ and MJ owner. CAD stinks. Every Jeep I work on with it, I eliminate it. Guess what I find in the process? 25 year old busted vacuum lines, bloated vacuum line connectors, bad vacuum reservoirs and piping, bad transfer case vacuum switches. In other words, had the person gotten into a sticky situation and needed 4WD, they would have been screwed!!! That's the tip of the iceberg. The factory went through 3 revisions of the shift fork also. The fork issue is non-existent if you just slide it over and leave it. See the link below for complete instructions. Takes less than 1/2 hour. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fre...ss-91-a-38629/

Braking power is increased quite a bit. Same with adding a dual diaphragm booster. Together,,,,,wonderful.

XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business.

For now........

what about the Tips?

Just making sure they're snug.

Have you ever visited my website? Lots of good info there to help you. Tips 1 through 5 are a must.

Just an FYI, the Renix Jeeps will run even with that harness unplugged.

Yes. Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5. Make sure your intake manifold bolts are tight.

I have ECUs but no plugs for them. A close-up pic of the ECU?

I'll go look today.