cruiser54

agreed.

87 to 90 are are the same. I MIGHT have one.

This^^. The manual trans vehicles had 3.07 gears and the ones equipped with an auto had 3.55 gears. Swap in a set of 3.55 axles. $1500 ain't gonna get you another motor.....

Make sure the intake manifold bolts aren't loose.

Is it the original by chance? Where is this oil accumulating?

Is that tube clear or partially clogged? Is it shoved down through the grommet too far? $8 will get you a new tube with grommet. The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number BK 715-1365 or Dorman 46005 and comes with the valve cover grommet.

It's compatible. No worries.

Might as well do this also. very worthwhile. Keep in mind Tips 1 through 5 are absolutely necessary to do. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GROUND NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 14 COMMENTS EDIT The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple: Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

You're not exempt from these issues. The headlamp harness is an absolute necessity and your headlights will shine about 35% brighter. 90 and earlier can also benefit from improving the blower motor ground to address the issue of melted plugs under the dash. See below: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 58 COMMENTS EDIT It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness. From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps. The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out. Here’s a link to a harness on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807 Absolutely plug and play: Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 24 COMMENTS EDIT On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

I fixed my parkbrake mechanism with a stronger spring and a vise.

I'm looking for an NP242 with 23 splines....

Ever replaced the cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs? Are all the vacuum lines on the engine intact? Ever checked to make sure the intake manifold bolts are tight?

Just an FYI, the 4.0's block drain plugs on the driver side use the same oddball 5/16 drive. 8mm works also.

Silicone spray.

Sooner than later. This sticky is old. Go to www.cruiser54.com for the latest version.

start adding that to the "I just got a Comanche" posts/threads.

ALL new owners should do this: Used Car checklist.pdf

Ya know, TCUs from different years will interchange, plug in, and not work. The color of the harness end and TCU must match. I've seen blue and brown.

Try this. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fresh fluid. Pump the clutch pedal about 30 times. wait 10 minutes and do it again. Again after 10 minutes if necessary.

while cranking it over, wiggle small areas of the harness and see where the issue is. Likely it is tied to something around here.

I MIGHT have a used one. what's wrong with yours?

746s for the win!! Cummins93 on Cherokee Forum has good rebuilt ones.

They are shared with GM or Ford and are commonly available.

It's called "crank- no start". Before doing anything else, go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5.

I doubt the truetrak is 3.5 to 1 when new. Maybe..... The original TorSen. which was the DualDrive Differential never had to spin before working.