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Just spent two days trying to figure out exactly how the navigation system works on a 2013 Ford Flex (SYNC). Seems great for getting me to the house across the street, but for long trips (one state to another) SYNC has a mind of its own. How do you deal with your vehicle navigation systems? Do you just OBEY it? Is it smarter than us? Can you custom make a high mileage trip simply?

Should be close enough. Best we can do. MJ_1987_Electrical_Manual_1.pdf

Under normal engine operations, the fuel pump current, flows through the ballast resistor causing a voltage drop to the fuel pump motor. Now when engine is at WOT the O2 Heater relay is activated (O2 Heater OFF) and this will bypass the ballast resistor and apply full battery voltage (B+) to the fuel pump motor (max current). During a WOT condition there is really no need for a O2 Heater, but there is a need for max fuel pump.

Running engine without the ballast resistor just means more fuel through the fuel return line. Pressure will stay the same. EDIT: I was thinking you had RENIX fuel pressure regulator.

Welcome to the CC Forum.

Welcome to the CC Forum. You got your radiator shroud in place? You jumped your AC Low Pressure Switch, does your AC clutch engage when EFan is ON?

Could have been a "must see". John Wick claims to be driving a 1969 Mustang Boss_429, but in reality its a Mustang Mach_I dressed up poorly to look like the Boss.

Don't forget...............

Somebody give me a cheeseburger.

Your video sure does sound like cross-firing. You mentioned 40psi as fuel rail pressure. Does that drop down to 31psi when engine is at IDLE?

Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins (use battery negative terminal for ground): D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)).

Maybe fuel line got crossed over somehow. If engine ran before this, it should run after doing this.

Check your Fuel Pump Relay. Swap it out with one of the others or jumper Pin_1 to Pin_4 with relay removed. Check your fusible links at starter relay.

Possible fuel in the hose between the engine manifold and the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and/or leaky injector(s).

I'm not going to say this will cure your problem but what about backtracking some wires back to there splices. Check the condition of these splices. Splices have been known to be trouble. Trace each wire back to there splices: D1_2 - Splice_B D1_5 - Splice_A D1_6 - Splice_K Also you have not swapped out the ECU? Correct?

So your getting good reading from your REM. How about starting fluid down the throttle when engine craps out, does it kick and buck? Got spark?

Do you still got the Renix Engine Monitor (REM)?

I have a couple of box head wrenches (sockets) that I put to the wheel grinder and flat'in them out. What I'm trying to say is I took the lip off the box or socket that has no bite on it. Once I did this man do them wrenches grab hold of whatever your taking off.

No. Its a IGN_SW_I1 feed. Hot (B+) only with KEY ON/CRANK.

Yea, your good. Just running the pump with KEY ON. No more listening to the radio using just KEY ON.

With KEY ON only, fuel pump motor will not cycle OFF when key is in the ON position and ECU sees no CRANK signal.

Yes loss of CPS signal would cause a NO START condition. Along with no FP relay action there would also be no spark from the ICM. Since jumping FP relay pin2 straight to ground vehicle START and RUNS just fine means CPS is good. SYNC SIG has no bearing with this problem. Even if you show good continuity between FP relay and ECU, disconnect ECU_C202 and with KEY ON ground pin_A5. Does Fuel Pump motor TURN ON? If yes, suspect ECU, otherwise check wiring.

Seems like your ECU (pin A5) is faulty. Just can't hold the relay coil to ground with KEY ON. I'm not sure how to test. Check for continuity between FP relay (C216_2(85)) and ECU C202_A5.