jimoshel

YEP! That's it. Spent 15-20 minutes looking for it and finally just gave up. Posted it where I did.

June 6th, last year my oldest and best friend, except for my little brother, passed on. We've been friends since 1948. Yesterday I was called and told if I wanted his boat to come get it. I did. I thought there was a 'working MJ' catagory here?

One of my money making endeavors in an attempt to make a living was opening a TV-Electronic repair shop. After a year it was profitable enough I was able to sell out. Except for football haven't watched TV since. Can't stand it.

Too smart we get to late Too old we get to soon

Congrats. She going to flight school?

NEWS BULLETIN. Please stand by. We interrupt this forum to bring a late breaking news flash. Word has just been received that General (Brevet) George Armstrong Custer and his entire command, the 7th Cavalry, is surrounded by hostiles and is cut off from communicating with the world. So far it is reported only verbal insults and the one finger salute has been exchanged between the two forces. Stand by for further news as we receive them. And now back to the Comanche Club Forum. :popcorn:

Different parts of the country, different deals' Here, for the crusher, if it's a totally scrap body no title needed.If it's a fairly complete car with no title then there is a $5 fee to run a theft search on it. Junk yard needs a title regardless. At the crusher for a stripped body $200. For a complete vehicle $300 to $350. The P&P gives $400 for a complete car. Prices I get for stuff. About 25% less than the yards get. Good engine $400-$600 transmission $150 Front clip, Everything firewall forward not attached to the engine $100 Axles $125 Tire and rim $25 A vehicle that's been wrecked but the engine still runs is easily worth $600

Did you try search and projects? That's been done enough times somebody should have a write up on it.

Fill it with brake fluid.

When you get it finished and start driving it, you're going to cry when it gets it's first scratch. You better just let me have it so it can be in 'safe keeping'. :rotf:

I am. Thinking about putting one on the Jeep too. :shake:

On any Jeep, although Renix ere seems to be the worst, you will find many loose wires just hanging. Rather than use a separate wiring harness for different options, they just made up one harness and used it in everything. If you have every factory option on the Jeep there won't be any loose wires. Get a wiring diagram and check the color codes and general location of the wire. That will tell you what it's for.If everything is working, then don't worry about it.

Another Jeeper that knows what a pickup bed is for. :rotf: Congrats on the honor.

Will a D30 from a Grand Cherokee, early '90'S direct swap with a early '90's XJ? :dunno:

The '86 MJ had the 904 automatic and the AX4 and AX5 manual trans. I have 3-4 good 2.8 engines I pulled from some S-10's. I was just wanting something with a little more oats.

Didn't do my homework. Just got home with my shiny new, front end only, 2010 Chevy. 92 actual miles. with the 4.3 engine and auto. Fella bought it new, drove out of the dealership and got tail ended. Car caught fire and was subsequently totaled. Fire department was on the ball and all the damage was confined to the rear end with the interior heavily smoke damaged. Finally got the legal works settled and I bought the remains for $950. Plan was to replace the blown 2.8 in the grey '86MJ with the 4.3. You can imagine my frustration when I got to checking out my prize and noticed the standard Chevy bell pattern instead of the 2.8 bolt pattern. :doh: Ain't no biggy. Got the local neighbor hood hot rodder drooling all over his self wanting the engine and Novak and Advance has adapters to fit. Got to make up my mind which way I want to go there. My question is, what is the biggest size engine and what years, models was it in that will bolt to the 2.8 bell housing? Only care about the mechanical bolt pattern, not the electrics, fuel etc, etc, hookups. :dunno:

Usually when a engine diesels it is because there's a piece of glowing carbon in the cylinder igniting the gas. Remove the carbon. Can pull the head and start scraping. There are several products on the market that helps. I just get a quart of water and with the engine at a fast idle I slowly pour the water into the intake. There are some peeps who when they get down to the last cup of water will pour it all in at once flooding the engine and stalling it. The theory is the water will soak the carbon over night and loosen it some more. I have done that but quit due to the danger of hydro locking the engine. Also just floorboarding the gas pedal will kill the engine due to the inrush of air.

Yes. I swapped a 96XJ windshield into a '87MJ. No problem. Other than getting the gunk off my hands.

Most gas tanks will hold more than their rated capacity. They do this to allow for expansion of the fuel. A storage tank sitting above ground at the end of a hot day will have more volume than an underground one early in the morn. Try a experiment . fill a plastic jug 3/4 full with gas. Mark the level. Now sit it out in the sun, in the shade, in the basement. Check the level. I remember when I was a kid, my uncle always told me to fill up late at night instead of late afternoon.

But something all drivers should be aware of. GREED!!! Cheating At the gas pumps (PRINT OUT YOUR RECEIPTS!!!)** * *It happened three weeks ago somewhere in Pomona on the way to Pechanga. The pump should have totaled @ $68.00 (and change). When the receipt was printed, and she checked it was $ 77.00 (and change).* *She got mad, went inside the store, asked for a calculator and let them do the math. They refunded her. she told them that if they cheat, they had better make it right. Normally, her husband would skip printing the receipt. Not her**������** We saw on the news the other night that this is happening everywhere. Brian pumped exactly one gallon of gas. The price did not match the cost of one gallon. It was higher.. He went inside and complained, got a refund. There is also a number on each pump that you can call and complain. This is a true story, so read it carefully. I stopped at a BP gas station in GA. My truck's gas gauge was on 1/4 of a tank. I use the mid-grade, which was priced at $3.71 per gallon. When my tank is at this point, it takes somewhere around 14 gallons to fill it up. When the pump showed 14 gallons had been pumped, I began to slow it down. Then, to my surprise, it went to 15, then 16. I even looked under my truck to see if it was being spilled. It was not.* *Then it showed 17 gallons on the pump. It stopped at 18 gallons. This was very strange to me, since my truck has only an 18 gallon tank. I went on my way a little confused, then on the evening news I heard a report that 1 out of 4 gas stations had calibrated their pumps to show more gas had been pumped than a person actually got. Here is how to check a pump to see if you are getting the right amount: Whichever grade you are using, put EXACTLY 10 GALLONS in your tank, then look at the dollar amount. If the dollar amount is not EXACTLY times the price of the fuel you have chosen, then the pumps are rigged. * *In my case, as I said, the mid-grade was $3.71 9/10 per gallon; my dollar amount for 10 gallons should have been $37.19. I wish I had checked the pump. It doesn't matter where you pump gas, just check the 10 gallon price. If you do find a station that is cheating, contact the state Agriculture Department, and direct your comments to the Commissioner. The info is on the gas pumps.

Great find on the CooCoo clock. I'd get rid if the stupid bird and replace it with a tiny MJ model that honked.

Made me curious so I went out and looked. My '86 MJ with 2.8, AX5 has a AMC20 with 3.73. That's what the tag says. And as for MJRemi purchase, looks like a darn good deal to me. I'd get the parts and put it back running original again.

$15 shipped.

Over what?