jimoshel

Hey guys. Don't put my Jeep down. It's a running little sucker. Actually it was uphill, no wind. Pueblo is 4600ft elevation. The house is 6300ft, So it's a 1700ft climb coming home.

As soon as I get them, you guys will see them. Just sent the reply to him today telling him where to send them. Rob :cheers: HMMMM!! Ain't received them yet. Better go check the mail box. :yes:

Has anybody replaced the calibration resistor in the tach circuit to use 4 cyl tachs in 6 cyl and vice versa? I'm thinking you can just replace the two fixed resistors with two of the proper resistance or swap in a trimmer pot. Searched search and couldn't find anything on the subject. Right now I have 3 instrument panels, one from a 2.5, 2.8 and a 4.0, on my desk getting ready to dismember them and see but don't want to rehash something if it's already been done. :dunno:

What diff gears you running back there Jim, 1.00s? :yes: Checked. 3.53

I remember when I was a kid, all these old farts telling me or just bitching about how they wish they had done this or did that when they were younger. I made up my mind then that I wasn't going to be like that. I have pretty much done what I wanted when I wanted. My only care was to make sure nobody else would get injured in any way by my actions. I flew my first plane and made my first Parachute jump when I was 14. Drove a stock car at the local race track at 15. Been around the world six times and some. My only requirement for going someplace was that I had never been there before. I'm almost 80 now(77) and I have no retirement plan, no portfolio of stocks, lot's of sore, stiff aching joints and some memories I wouldn't trade for anything in this world. :cheers:

What diff gears you running back there Jim, 1.00s? :yes: Gee Don. I don't remember for sure. Think it's 3.73. The tach reads 2850 at 85.

I was in a little bit of a hurry to get home last night and was going a little over 85 in my '87, 2.5, 4sp. Had just let up on the gas to exit the hwy when the whole interior of the truck was lit up with flashing red-Blue lights. Don't know where in H*ll he came from, open hwy and I never saw him. Pull over and he walks up to the window. Him, "know why I pulled you over"? Me, " Either you were lonely and wanted some one to talk to, or I was speeding." Him, after a long pause, " You trying to be funny?" Me, "Well yes sir I am. I figure you catch enough crap from pissed drivers and might appreciate it." Him, "OK. I do appreciate the thought. Now down to business. Do you know how fast you were going?" Me, "Yes sir I do. A little over 85." Him. Big grunt. "Drivers license, Registration and insurance card, please." I hand them over and he checks. Hands them back. Him. "I didn't know there were any Jeep pick ups left on the road or that one that old could run so well." From here it went into a Jeep BS session. He had a CJ he had made a rock crawler out of and I kept quite and let him talk about it. We popped the hood and talked about 4-6 and V8's for 15 minutes. I told him about Comanche Club and gave him a club card and mentioned my collection. He's coming out this afternoon to see them and maybe buy one. He then gently chided me for treating a old Jeep like that , He chewed my *ss out. And gave me a warning ticket for a cracked windshield. Got 30 days to get it replaced.

To not even try is failure. To not learn something from a failure is failing twice.

Did you measure the amount of grease you put in each cup to insure equal amounts?

My guess would be a bad tach amplifier or faulty ground in the instrument cluster. Can you swap tachs with your friend and see what happens? You can test the amp by feeding a 6-12VAC signal into it and monitor the output. Some AC signal generators will generate a strong enough signal for this. One thing to remeber when using a AC signal. Automotive tachs are calibrated with a 60cps signal. Normal house hold AC supply. The tach on your diesel is taking a AC signal from the alternator which I believe is 400some cycles AC at idle.

There's always the old 'hose clamp trick. Take a hose clamp big enough to wrap around the drive shaft. About a foot from the rear seems to work best.Test drive. Rotate the clamp about 1/2 inch. Test drive. Time consuming and a labourous PITA but it does work. I once had to use two clamps which ended up 45* apart but it solved a vibe problem the drive shaft shop couldn't find or fix.

This may or may not be relative to apexjeepinjoe's problem. NEVER, NEVER just blindly assume that that shiny new part your walking out of the parts store with is the correct one. I don't know how many times I've tried to fit something new I had just bought onto something come to find out it was the wrong part. Sometimes it's mis understanding between you and the parts clerk. Sometimes the clerk reads the wrong info. Sometimes it's a wrong item in the right package. Always assemble or test fit the parts on the garage floor BEFORE trying to install them on the truck.

What was that on? AX-15 / BA10-5 clutch is a 10 spline. Memory's a little hazy but it was a '46 '47 or 48 Ford P/U.

Not MJ related but never know what a Jeeper will have stashed away. I need a owner-operator manual for a Johnson Javelin RJE 19. 35. Also a overhaul manual if possible. Original or copy. And don't suggest ebay.

Never thought about a ratchet strap. have to remember that. Have used a Port-A-Power tho. The problem is the input shaft is either missing the bushing center or the splines on the input shaft and clutch disc (k)? aren't lining up. By putting it in gear and turning the the output shaft it will line them up. Did have a kid helping me once. Was a trade school grad. Was trying to put a 23 spline shaft into a 21 spline disc.

Swap injectors. See if the code stays with the injector or the cylinder.

Remove the shaft, rotate it 180 and hook it back up. See what haps. Personally I suspect one off the cups is not seated properly. Not doubting your eye sight but maybe it's dark under there.

Take two bolts about 3-5 inches long that fit the threads in the block. Cut the heads off. Or use two studs.Screw them into the bottom two holes of the block. Start the tranny onto them. Sometimes you can seat it just by wiggling and pushing. If you can get within an inch or less then take at least two bolts and start them thru the bell housing into the block. I prefer one bolt in every hole rather than just the two. Tighten them finger tight. Inspect the gap between the block and bell housing. It should be equal distance all around. If not, correct it by wiggling, pushing on tail shaft. Now, tighten each bolt 1/2 turn criss crossing back and forth between the bolts. Tighten them equally, not one more than another. This should draw the trans up. It's very easy to crack a bell housing doing this so go easy. If it starts getting tight, then back off. Remove every thing and inspect it again. There's something wrong. After getting all the bolts started, remove the two studs and replace them with the regular bolts. Cutting a slot in the end of the two modified studs for a screw driver will help removing them.

The last time I bonded with my MJ was when it slipped of the jack and caught my head between the brake drum and cement floor. Fortunately I have extra brake drums.

I had one of those. Finally threw it away. Went thru a whole box of shells without hitting anything and always wound up with one h*ll of a head ache after shooting.

Put it in gear and turn the output shaft while pushing. Sometimes they can be a real booger. I have spent an hour trying to get one together and after getting totally PO'D I would take a coffee break or sometimes even over nite. When I came back to it, it would fall into place. Are using two bolts in the block to guide and help support the weight?

[quote=" just gets the job done.

What do you mean by 'close'? 1/8 inch? 1/2 inch? 2inches? Is the ID of the pilot bushing correct size for the input shaft? Is the spline count on the clutch disc and the input shaft the same?

I have a Ruger single shot, .22 short derringer I use when hunting Bull Rogue elephants in Africa.

I haven't found anything yet that will do a better or quicker clean-up than just regular kitchen dish washing detergent. Powdered Tide or liquid Dawn.