Tex06

Like the title says, I'm looking at 2 different SUVs for a temporary dog-hauler. MJ is gonna have to go down for some service (axles and dash at the very least) which is going to leave me without a way to haul my pup for at least a month or two as I only have weekends to work on it. Looking at a late model XJ (98-01) or a late model trailblazer (06-09). Probably 2wd for each just so I don't get any ideas about keeping either one. Familiar with the XJ platform obviously, the trailblazer would be to test out the 4.2L Vortec and see if it would be a viable motor to swap into the MJ at a later date. Thoughts?

Personal opinion: Wire wheel the outside after changing the fluid and run as-is. Unless the axles have been leaking fluid already chances are really good the seals and bearings are fine. If you introduce sand to the equation, you have to make damn sure you get it all out....which is easiest when there's no cracks/crevices like bearings and races to hide in. Basically, if you think the axles may be good, change fluid, wire wheel, and paint. If you think they're suspect, full teardown, sandblast (protect any machined surfaces), redo your gears, and new bearings/seals, then paint. Rebuilding either of these axles isn't that bad, but it will cost more in both time and money....and if the axles are fine as they currently are, you're not really gaining much other than peace of mind.

Personally, I'd leave the rear open and put a lunchbox up front. You're gonna be in 2wd most of the time and will rarely need the rear end to lock. A lunchbox locker at the rear can be tricky to drive on slick surfaces (you don't have your location but I assume it either rains/snows/ice/all of the above where you are, lunchbox style lockers can lock/unlock in turns with little warning) but with it only in the front, if you need traction, it's there when you shift into 4wd. Just my $0.02. I picked up a used Aussie locker for $125 and put it in my Dana 30 up front. A brand new one is $249 from http://rwkhaussupply.com/

Damn that does look good. What setup are you using to spray? I know POR is pretty thin as-is, can you just spray it thru an HVLP gun or does it need to be thinned first?

Best bet would be your local u-pull-it. Call and see if they have any manual Cherokees from the 90s

-Buy the slave/master pre-bled set new off Amazon or Rockauto....don't try to use junkyard parts (ask me how I know). -AX15 isn't hard to get, they can be found in junkyards for about $350 if they pull and send to you....or you can go to a pick and pull and possibly spend 2 hours on your back pulling a nasty greasy tranny and save $150-$200 -Wherever you get the tranny, snag the crossmember with it. -Rubber mount. They're cheap and don't transmit vibrations like solid or poly will. You can always "upgrade" later if you so desire but for daily use rubber is best. -Yeah, verify. I forget the cutoff but if you get your transmission from a '94 XJ (I did), just get everything to match that (clutch, slave/master cylinder setup, etc) -Flywheel, not sure on this. I bought a new '92 one and still have a little chatter on engage. Doesn't bother me. -M/S - already covered -Pedals....ask Pete. I delivered a set to him a few months back from Louisiana. I believe they're the same from Renix and H.O. years -Jump NSS....no idea, didn't have this issue -Wire in reverse switch- again didn't have to do but I think the wire is already there and just connects on the tranny.....I think. Both auto and manual transmission have them so it would make sense if the wire worked for both.

Not that I'm aware of. I didn't have cruise in my MJ originally and adding it was simply buying a GM stalk and pulling a cruise actuator from an XJ. Stupid simple install, took almost 15 minutes the first time (took about 3 hours the second b/c I decided to run the wire from the stalk down the column, which is a PITA...but it looks factory.)

Hell no. I've got 2 spare sets. One good, and one meh. Plan to eventually redo the meh set....if they don't turn out well, I'll put the good ones on after the repaint.

I may have a spare 91-92 manual computer in my parts pile. If you're interested I can dig thru and see if I can find it. It would have come from an XJ but they're interchangeable.

x2 on using a Harbor Freight body shim set. https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html Or look on Amazon for something similar.

There's currently 3 I saw on fleabay.....1 drivers for $170, 1 passenger for $180, and another driver in really nice shape for $350.

x2 on eBay. Expect to pay somewhere around $200/side for good quality tails.

Yeah, I agree. That's why I point people in the direction of research instead of just saying "Trust me, I'm an engineer!"

Not true. Depending on the manufacturer depends on if and how much sulphur/phosphorus is used (which is what attacks "yellow metals" such as brass, copper, and bronze). There are brands of GL-5 that meet the wear spec without the use of sulphur, Pennzoil is one of them. I believe the spec you want is GL-5/MT-1, with MT-1 distinguishing that it is yellow metal safe. I've run this for nearly 7 years with no ill effects as have many many others. For information on this, look at the independent testing done and recorded on bobistheoilguy.com where they break down gear oils that are yellow metal safe. Even the absolute worst GL-5 would take years to eat the synchros to a point that it would affect shiftability. I look at it akin to "Water corrodes aluminum and iron, yet look at how many uncoated aluminum transmission cases and cast iron rear ends there are in the world". Full disclosure: I'm a Materials Engineer and deal with corrosion in my day to day. Edit: Pennzoil SynchroMesh is what I'm running. They may not make it anymore with a GL certification from what I'm seeing online, it's now just listed as an MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid).

Good work on the transmission. 1st time I did my AX-15 I put the reverse gear in backwards I've seen the Chevelle, is your 'Vette yellow or white? There's one of each early C3 around that area, I forget how to differentiate pre-'73 Vette's from each other.

X2 for redline, it's great stuff I use in my high end vehicles(the MJ doesn't fall in that category, lol). I use Pennzoil GL-5 in my AX-15 now. I ***DO NOT*** recommend running a motor oil in the AX-15. I did for about 3000 miles and recorded much higher transmission temps while doing so as compared to the GL-3 (or whatever was in there previously) and the Pennzoil GL-5 immediately after. Higher temps mean more friction, more friction means more wear happening. My $0.02

This is part of why I got a camper shell that locks.

If you haven't seen or heard of Leo Moracchioli yet, this guy does great metal covers of all kinds of music. Very talented guy and pretty high quality music videos. (929) I Was Made for Lovin´ You (metal cover by Leo Moracchioli) - YouTube

Ok, that tracks. Cool little backwoods type repair....you know what they say: "If it's stupid but works, it ain't stupid". I'll have to file that one back in the cool tips and tricks folder in my head.

Typlically when the sag is noticeably different on one side from the other or when you have broken leafs.

For the sealant? I was thinking about wiping the seal with it to lube it up (Dry lube, it's basically graphite on the paper) prior to installing it.

This. Also, it is possible that the front axle has been swapped......these trucks do get modified quite a bit.

Awesome.

Get the VIN at least?

In for this one. Did my own rear seal about 3 years ago....but I have an H.O. motor.