feerocknok

Typo, you can see the 2 point inch.

clogged fuel filter?

If you went through the large amount of trouble to mount them, their shorter length would result in less flex, and theoretically, you'd get no lift, as an MJ and XJ at stock height are about the same.

One of the J trucks has something ridiculous like 67 or 69" leaves

My friend's DSL doesn't compare to my cable, and her comp is alot faster (512 Mb RAM vs. 2 Gb). I also pay $35/month for my internet as there is a discount for having cable TV as well, and a larger discount for having digital cable.

Frams fail occasionally and are missing a certain part in them that every other brand filter has (can't remember what it is now :oops: ). I usually go in and get the least expensive filter that isn't a Fram, just as Pete does.

The pictures of the welds on the box aren't clear enough for me to see weld quality or lack there of, but the bead consistency on the new crossmember of the rear frame area seem iffy. I like the truck, that it actually has a full interior, and can understand that all that work to put on a bed was just for show, but there are alot of details I don't care for, like on any vehicle. It's too easy to nitpick though.

Holy moly, that swap sounds tricky. Congrats! I'm anxious for pics too

:rotf: Those places are a joke! Never go to a quick lube place if you don't have to. Since you have an '86 and not a 2.8, I suppose you have the 2.5. The 2.5 used 3 different oil filters throughout its years between the Cherokee/Comanche and Wrangler lines. The threading that the oil filter screws onto can be removed, and you can take that to the parts house to try and find which oil filter fits your motor if for some reason the '86 filter won't fit. The threading that was on my 2.5 required use of a '70s CJ v-8 filter, so I got ahold of the right adapter from the junkyard and am now back to running an '86 2.5 filter.

So, the truck went to the dealership today. My timing is fine! My rodknock isn't... Replacement for replacement motor coming soon.

I did 2.25" lift shackles and I wouldn't do it again that tall. I'd do 1.5" of lift maximum. Biggest complaint is how far forward the axle moved, and I assume my springs will be dead in 2 years of road use with occasional trails.

I couldn't figure out how to play this, I just kept losing points and quit.

Is the rear frame as chinsy as the front unibody?

The file must have .jpg on the end of it. For yours, click "Get original upload photo" and paste it like this: http://images20.fotki.com/v382/fileVVr1/cb025/1/10323/4339569/DSC02288.jpg[/imgzzz] without the 'zzz' on the end.

Offroaders don't seem to do it, but lowriders do a thing called c-notching the frame: It'd hold up to wheeling just fine, but people usually tube everything instead. Most of us don't mind if you don't search. Of course it's a plus if you do, but the only people on here that have shortened their wheelbase have done a tube frame in the rear.

Me messaging the seller: "I'm sorry to have to say this, but thought I'd let you know, these lil' trucks just don't go for 5 grand. I think the most someone will pay would be $2500, and a reasonable price would be $1800. I hope you get what you ask for, but as a Comanche owner in a club of many Comanche owners, this price is quite detering." Seller messaging me: "I'm Sorry To Have To Say That I Have Already Got Two Offers Over What My Reserve Is And Also I Have One Customer Coming To Pick This Vehicle Up For The Buy It Now Price I Hope You Have The Same Great Success Selling Your Vehicle." So apparently someone's dropping 5 grand on this truck...

Thank you! Mine's different, as the bottom tube continues across, blocking off my license plate tags, and doesn't have a license plate light.

I read em at Barnes and Noble. The magazine writers' ignorance has led me to Never purchase a copy.

The truck was supposed to be a semi-restoration, so we kept the tranny the same. The only real alterations on the truck are the stereo and suspension. I'll have to try moving the CPS, we just installed the new one.

Whatever Haynes/Chiltons lists, which I'm not sure, but seeing as I don't have a job right now, I'm almost happy!

$120!!! :nuts: Good deal on the $12 one though. Sould clean up/paint nicely!

The good news: Rims are on... (I love the cemetary, but I feel awkward taking pictures there) The bad news: Head is cracked... The head was a fresh head with a 3 year, 36000 mile warranty, so the company that it was bought it from will be sending me a new one and paying $20/hr for me to install it, or $38/hr for a shop to install it. Wound up in some gumbo mud on accident today. Had mild tire spin through the whole ordeal, but nothing major, just tread cleaning. XTerrains get an 'A' for that! And the car wash got $5 for me to pressure wash everything I could touch water to. I hate mud.

Don't feel like reading. US government? Don't see why they'd close it off for US citizen use then.

Yes, it's possible. Carbed small blocks are the simplest engine I've ever touched. However, if you're going to do a small block Chevy swap, don't do a 305. Do at least a 350, or try to get your hands on a 400. Identical engine, but different bore and stroke, and more likely to be a 4 bolt main instead of a 2 bolt. I'd say find a donor Chevy and take the motor, trans, t-case, and axles, and transplant em. The whole thing may or may not be worth it to you. Completely depends on your feelings for your particular truck and how many headaches you care to take on.

Not trying to threadjack, but does anyone have a picture of what this is? Pretty sure my tube bumper isn't factory, but I didn't put it on there.