feerocknok

I run at about 3750 on the highway, but it's only the noise that bothers me. I pass everyone to show off my rod knock with 800 miles on the motor.

Would anyone happen to know if the door panels can be transferred? I love my red interior.

:agree: Pull your belt off and spin the pulleys by hand.

What did the truck have stock? If it was 3.07s, whowee will your speedo be off!

Oh! Okay, yes please do!

Pretty sure they're the ones that bolt to the door. Don't see em on Manches all too often, but 1 ton Yoters had em.

Wow! I checked CW's post and his 4" Rusty packs and 2" Chevy drop shackles he's at 35".

Different arch. Some people on here knew they were the correct eye to center pin measurements, but realized that they didn't have enough arch to be a direct replacement. You've got me curious on using MJ springs on a FSJ now...

Could be the slave?

Pressure is pressure, and remains constant throughout any hydraulic circuit. The problem won't be pressure, it'll be volume. You're only replacing the short lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve block, correct? Probably won't make much difference. I'm turning my brain into a pretzel trying to figure if it'll mean more peddle travel, or less. It's too late, and I'm fried. Let us know how it works. I appreciate the help immensly. It is the short lines, and I think I'll swap up to 1/4" lines so I can get the fittings to fit. I ended up running a stop sign the other day because of the water on my already poorly working brakes, and I'm definitely not okay with that. As for the box, cruise control is opperated by vacuum, but I don't know about wipers. 87+ was OBD though, right? My original thoughts were to do with the engine's timing and such, since the box says AMC and I have an '86, but if it's on an 87+ truck, that's not it.

Wow, truck looks good, but'll look better minus the stickers and (personal opinion) chrome rollbar. Oklahoma I'd imagine is a couple hours from you?

Could you make a measurement from the center of your hub to the top of your bedrails?

Would it be okay to switch from a 3/16" line to a 1/4" line? The reason I need to change the fittings is they froze to the old master cylinder and my wrenches decided to strip the out. I'm worried that the 1/4" line won't keep the same pressure...

thats a manual tranny. AW4 stayed through 01. Just was trying to say that they never switched to a Chryco tranny, that I know of.

The price doesn't sound bad to me, doesn't sound great either. Shouldn't we not jump MJs due to frame strength?

In 2000 the NV3550 came into use in Wranglers and Cherokees, but that transmission is made by New Venture.

Question #1: There is a small yellow box (5"x4"x1") underneath my steering column, with quite a few wires going into it. I was curious what it does. It has 3 or 4 inputs that look like they are to adjust something. Above one input it says "low speed adjust" and I can't remember on the others. What is this? Question #2: I am replacing my brake master cylinder and need new fittings that attach the lines to the cylinder. One is 1/4" threads with a 3/16" line, and the other is 5/16" threads with a 3/16" line. No part house in the area has these fittings or any adapters to make a 3/16x3/16 fitting fit. What do I do? Dealer item?

Hopefully hornbrod will post up where he bought his metric ton springs, but he ordered a brand new set. In case people don't look at this thread, maybe put a WTB thread in the classifieds as well. Sorry to hear about the truck!

And try to stay away from the Renault diesel. People think they're cool cause they're rare, and I agree with that, but finding parts for my 2.5L has been hard enough for me to not want to go with something less common.

perfect. Low range is about 2.6:1 plus another low range of 2.6:1 means with both t-cases in low range, the gearing is more like 6.76:1

Sorry to here about your LSD, but the 44 looks nice, as does all of the new mods. Do the pins on those disconnects jing-jangle much?

Hmm, was thinking about grabbing a 4.56 12 bolt, instead of a 4.56 dana 35, and using adapters for the width. What'd you do for brakes?

I don't feel too much like reading through all 16 pages, but how was the 12 bolts width in comparison to your stock rear end?

How would the rear brakes of a '87 Cherokee, Dana 35, 2.5L auto, compare to the brakes on my '86 Comanche, Dana 35, 2.5L auto? I'm thinking of snagging a set of 4.56 Cherokee axles, and wasn't sure about swapping all my fresh brake equipment off of my 4.10 Comanche axles onto it if the Cherokee's brakes aren't up to par condition whise or quality whise.

Mos def bigger than 33s. I could be mistaken with the poor picture quality, but they look a bit like Krawlers, which would make them 35s or 37s.