feerocknok

:oops: PM sent :oops:

Does the ECU have controls for things outside of the motor? I suppose I'm looking to run the Jeep ECU as a standalone ECU for the motor. The vehicle under the knife is pre-computer days. Lots of vacuum controls though :ack:

I'm looking to acquire a '91+ 4.0L, trans, ECU, trans controller, and all that jazz for an engine swap on a non-Jeep vehicle :razz: The acquisition point will, of course, be at my local U-Pull-It. My lil Comanche buddy is a TBI 2.5L, so I'm not all too familiar with the 4.0L set-up. Is the ECU located under the hood in an easily accesible spot like I think it is? Where is the trans controller? Outside of the ignition switch, should there be any wiring that goes into the interior that I need? Here, I was thinking ignition switch, possibly fuse block, gauge cluster. Any other suggestions? I've done swaps with carbed engines, but this'll be my first fuel infected.

I suppose I was mistaken. :oops: Did a search and it was BLHTAZ. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7254&hilit=hellcreek

:agree:

Hellcreek used to be a user on here. I don't know much about their products but when I had called to talk to them back in the day, they seemed very educated and were very nice people to speak with. They also wanted $100 less per set. I believe JeepCoMJ got ahold of their prototype springs and the bushings were polyurethane that needed alot of grease to keep from being squeeky. That's all I remember.

Wheel spacers are a very basic design done out of machined aluminum. There is nothing to fail with wheel spacers that wouldn't fail with wheels with less backspacing, so long as loctite is used where necessary, torque specs are measured, and, as with all wheels, retorque after 50-100 miles. :banana: Go wheelspacers :banana: it's your birthday :banana: Go wheelspacers :banana: it's your birthday :banana:

Intake manifold leaking?

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight= http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight= http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight= Not sure if any of those show the suspension, but those are his project threads. And he's got one pic on his myspace page as well of it, if you have myspace.

Same issue with the cargo light :D but I like the idea! My buddy has a third brake light in the center of his tail gate on his Dakota and it makes braking very apparent.

Sheesh, in my '86, the 2.5L fits like a glove. Doesn't look so good in the '87+ trucks. Do you just need a vacuum diagram?

B!tchin.

Got a number on these Eagle? Far as I know, NGK does not make a copper plug like Champions, correct? FR5, or shelf number 7373. It's a copper core with the 'v' notched into the tip.

Spark plugs. The $8 answer to almost all of your vehicles running issues. I have brands I like, and brands I dislike, but I change my spark plugs way too often. My Audi gets em every other oil change, and my Jeep blew its new motor on the first set. The plugs helped show me why.

Derr, I see the bolts now, didn't realize. :roll:

What do you do when you have to work on the tranny with this set-up/Clayton's?

Is anyone using any particular style gasket or using any sealants on them? I was using the metal style of gasket with no sealant last time I did my motor and had a good vacuum leak on the intake side and an exhaust leak on the exhaust side. Would be nice to get it right this time around.

Sometimes a person has to test limits, but companies shouldn't. What are you seeing being done incorrectly? If you link it, you could narrow the frame before the tires and you'd have less to worry about structually, but then you're getting aways into things.

17s look b!tchin.

Has anyone put that wide of a tire on a lowered jeep? I know you can get the right offset wheels and/or wheel spacers so that they don't rub, but I would be nervous that it would in the front at full lock. They measure out to 11.2" wide. Not too bad for rubbing, but it would hit.

This should get moved to the DIY forum, for sure. And that part number should work at any Advanced Auto, Checkers/Schucks/Kragens/Murray's, and (I think) O'Reillys.

Don't go bias ply on a street rig, it sucks. Didn't like the XTerrains?

Leave the stock wheela on, trim the front and rear of your flares, go with Skyjacker shocks, don't jump it and use your fenders for bumpstops. That's what I'd do.

Please don't make drop brackets for the leaf springs. PLEASE don't! Call up Tom on the spring rate, he'll get you worked out.