feerocknok

The 3-link set-up is great. Anyways, how big do you want to go?

:needpics: Should be pretty basic with tabs. Angle iron, float bar, angle iron. outer bedside -> | |____| | <-inner bedside .................................^-bracket

Are they incredibly hard to control like I've heard?

I go to Schucks ;) Discount's nice, and I actually know how to look up parts. Junkyard's backup, but of the course the first place for big items (i.e. axles). Last place is eBay.

My Yota had its mirror attached to the door hinge. What style mirror do you have to work with?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... ber=26102G They can be had for cheaper, but haven't shopped around. I got em through Schucks before I started working there for $32, cause I price matched a different place in town. Well over half of all auto parts stores have access to Energy Suspension products, so you can just bring them one of those part numbers.

My chemical cabinets been a little low on elbow grease. Would be worth the investment. Does anyone know if the blinker fluid works on European cars?

1. Get a Dana 30 that matches the gears of your rear end. You don't need the control arms. 2. The swap's possible, but seems like a Major pain from the perspective of someone that hasn't done it before (me). 3. Yeah, the t-case isn't divorced so get one attached to the tranny. 4. Correct. 5. <- Don't know this one. 6. T-case shift linkage. Sounds like you've done your research well! As far as the lift, 3" coils are cheap, so that's a good route. You can run your stock control arms, but you'll be lacking down travel. It's best to get new lower control arms that have a bend in them so that they clear the bracket. When lifting the front end, the panhard (track bar) will pull the axle to the drivers side. The ways to fix this are to drill the hole that the panhard mounts to (on the axle side) further towards the driverside to relocate it, or buy an adjustable track bar. Either is accectable at 3" of lift. At 4+" you will need new lowers, a new track bar, and brake lines. You should also look into uppers, but that is another spot that you can decide on. For the rear, a spring over axle lift height is dependent on the condition of your leaf springs. You will get as much lift as the thickness of your leaf packs plus the thickness of your axle tubes. If your current leaf packs are sagged to death (like many on this board), flipping it to SOA may only net you to a 3" lift compared to a stock 4x4. Common SOA lift tends to be about 4-6" depending on the condition.

Candy flaked paint isn't necessary on a hotrod either. In fact, it's more for show cars and customs. Even on the H.A.M.B., the 'r' word is like the word from satan. 1/10 people will be okay with you dropping it there. If someone called something that I built a 'rat', I would be deeply offended, but maybe that's just me.

I really like mine, which is why I recommend them to everyone. Plus the company's great as far as product quality and customer service. We deal with them alot at work.

Looks good! 31s? Which spacers did you end up going with? Stacking stock isolators is fine. Did that on an XJ with junkyard ones, so it was $0.00. Good price!

???? Please explain?? The "ratrod" term; it's the 'R' word. A rat rod would be a rig built purposefully crappy. People think it means open fenders and headers, but that's what hot rods are. Rat rods are rigs that people let rot, and drive. When people call hotrods "ratrods," they are saying that something wonderful is something horrible and the line becomes blurred. If you slam an MJ with open fenders and headers pointed to the sky, you've built a hotrod. If you let the fenders fall off due to rust, let the exhaust fall off due to abuse, and lower it in unsafe ways, you have a ratrod.

Are those 34x9.5s or 34x10.5s? What width rim? Looks good on the trail.

Please, no more 'R' words! It describes everything evil in the hotrod world. Just call it a hotrod, please!

And I won't open this thread again.

My fav site: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ But DO NOT DROP THE 'R' WORD.

x2! I just got my GPS for my Audi and want it in the MJ x1000!

Are you doing a flip out from a single din, or are you somehow fitting a double din deck in?

Correction: The 4.2L is the old AMC 258 CID, which began as a 232 CID (3.8L, although it wasn't referred to that way until many years later) in 1964. The 6-cylinder version of the engine preceded the 2.5L 4-cylinder by 20 years. I don't know why the urban legend persists that the 4.0L was based on the 2.5L -- the opposite is the fact. I had heard that in the '60s(?), the 4 cylinder engine was produced, and then the next year or so, the 6-cylinder was produced. I admit to not having a solid source for this info though.

I don't know of anything called a "compressor" in the brake system, and I'm not sure what that hissing sound is, but definitely look into it. As far as info on the truck: '86 was the first model year of the Comanche. It's based off the Cherokee platform that started in '84, with most everything in front of the transmission crossmember being the same. The front of the truck is a unibody, while the bed is set on top of an actual frame. In '86, there were 3 engine options; there was the 2.1L Renault diesel (desirable for uniqueness), the 2.5L (what the famous 4.0L and 4.2L were designed off of. It's a 4 cylinder version of the 6), and the 2.8L GM V-6. Only a longbed was offered in '86. While Jeep competed in the SCCA with their trucks, and won just about everything, the 2.5L was the motor ran, so be proud of your motor. The automatic transmission offered that year was a power robbing TF904. "If you want to experience slow, drive a four-cylinder automatic Cherokee (Off-Road Adventure)." But the manuals, AX-4 and AX-5, were great for the power of the 4-cylinder. 23,251 MJs rolled off the assembly line that year. I'm still working on my restomod, and have about 10 grand into it now. It's an '86 2.5L auto 4x4. What it still needs is paint, rear suspension, a good headliner, and bumpers. Certain parts for a restoration seem almost impossible to find and are what have turned my restoration into a restomod.

Tom's a super nice guy. Does alot of follow through, and real nice to work with. Was going to get a set, but have decided on coils instead, but these look very promising, and I'd rather go this route than Rusty's due to the altitude Rusty's has (which some want).

Is it the one of the chick driving the CJ?

best part.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5443