feerocknok

And the occasional 4.56s (which I'm picking up tomorrow :D ). Not many guys seem to be rearching their springs on here, so make sure if you try it, you let everyone know the outcome. I do wonder why it's not popular.

Yeah, the route I was suggesting was leaving RE, and it looks like you'd like to keep as much RE as possible. It is quality stuff. Sorry to distract the thread. You were looking for a SOA on 31s, right?

Huh. It should be alot cheaper. If you decide to piece together a 4"ish lift, you can save some money too. $100 for coils, $100 for LCAs, $100 for an add-a-leaf, $50 for shackles. But SOA is a good way to go as well, and you'll net alot more lift.

If you want you tires too look okay but want room for when you get larger tires, you might want to look into an add-a-leaf combined with some lift shackles for 4", instead of the 5-6" from the SOA.

It needs to be an '80 or newer axle to be the right drop. I don't think Jeep made any changes in the axle throughout the years though.

Here's the 7.5" Randy's Ring & Pinion says it was used only in the rear of Blazers, Camaros, vans and some other stuff. Assuming it's a 10 bolt front, they aren't real strong, but a lightweight rig should do okay. Fullsize guys aren't hot for em with 5000+ lb trucks on 35"+ tires. And another Randy's quote says, "Spline Count: 1.625 / 30" And gearing of: 2.56 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 4.11 4.56 4.88 5.13 5.38 5.57 A 44 would be a better option if you could find one.

I'm assuming it's that SAS Blazer? All 30s look the same. 10 bolt (used in fronts and rears) 44 And a gasket diagram:

I guess jbhill. Did I get it?? You'd go back to an open front diff then?

don't go that wide on 15x7 rims. they will curve too far outward then and will wear faster. good rule of thumb for 10.50 tires is 8"wide rims to 10" wide. jeep had factory ones like that. I say this from experience. I've got 31x10.50 Dayton Timberline A/T's on 8" wide rims for my 86 comanche and at 17k miles on them they look like new. my brother has the same tires on his 88 comanche with 22k miles on them, but 7 " rims and they wore funny cause of the curve on the riding surface that was brought on by the narrower rim. he has to buy new ones when he starts driving again. Beads'll pop off easier on an 8" rim with only 10.5s, so it kinda depends on the trucks usage.

:rotf: sorry

These?

Oddball Q, but does that sunroof on your truck leak at all?

Both 2.8 autos I've seen are 4.10s...

Vacuum leak?

The bumper, not the Cherokee, right?

LAWLZ!!1! Those pictures are ridiculous. Anyways, welds look fine for an exhaust system, but it looks more like an exhaust manifold than a header, and not hi-flow, but just as a replacement.

Factory in the rear? Hornbrod was looking for one awhile back, and considered modifying an XJ bar since no one made one.

:hmm: Ya ever see a deal and wonder if it's too good? It sounds like a real steal though! :thumbsup:

If for some reason your factory front sway bar has been removed, all the bracketry should be there to put a new one in its place. You'd have to build all the bracketry for the rear as no one makes an MJ rear sway bar.

Sorry, I should clarify. I said the 3.8 from the 1996 Camaro. That's a Buick motor, which IS a 60 degree setup. with no air conditioner on it, and custom motor mounts and headers, it's a simple enough system. I can give anyone the specs on mine if they'd like. and sorry Kassidy, no cruel intentions meant with the gender mixup! No offense taken! Any thoughts on any of this 86FUBAR?

Any info on the truck? Looks meaty!

You just have to pull the third member out. 9" and Toy axles are so nice to work with, but so you know, that 9" third could kill a man. Feels like 50 lbs. Lots of guys don't pull the spiders out of the third member to weld, but I would recommend it so the gear oil doesn't contaminate your welds.

:needpics:

You can either just weld up the spider gears, or put a chunk of metal in there in weld it all up. The metal chunk is stronger. Just make a bunch of passes through the spider gears. The lincoln locker is as strong as the welders skills (to a point).

Both. Are you racing with a full-time t-case, or 2wd? AWD seems to benefit extremely well with them in the rear, even without a front bar.