carnuck

My little brother (on the left. Still has less hair than me!) fishing for minnows in our backyard in BC, Canada

Rear wheels have my 33/9.50/15s on them (Newer XJ) but I need center caps Image Not Found The D44 rear axle (and maybe the steel wheels, but they are wrong offset) from this '66 Travelall I parted will end up on one of my MJs. Image Not Found Not mine (Son's ex-gf hit it with her XJ) My 16" ZJ wheels with 255/85/16 tires on.

800-radiator or radiatorbarn (I even got a shirt from them) depending on cost at the time. (we use 800 radiator through work and get a deep discount) PS: You can use the '91+ rad in the Renix closed system by just adding a cap and a reservoir (I wire tied a pop bottle in with a drilled hole in the lid and a hose)

Don't recall who made it, but the Baja BEast was an awesome cam in my Mexican 282 motor I put in my '83 Cherokee full size

I have a USB port that lives in my cigarette lighter but I plan to replace my ashtray with a 3 outlet box from work (NAPA) and put a 350 watt inverter on the bottom of the dash with a mechanical timer (so the battery won't go dead)

Caddy and Buick used double cardan with slipyoke in the '70s, but it has to be at the diff end.

Input bearing/gear on the trans or the tcase shifted part way into 4x4.

Not enough cab room is why I want to take the longbed I recently picked up and graft another cab back on it to use the XJ 2 drs on it (9" more space)

dual rear wheel

$$$$ are the biggest concern. You can pick up NP208s from an FSJ, put a new chain in, reseal it and you're good to go (I see them for sale for $150 all the time here, but can't find an NP229/228 for my Eagle)

Bacterial infection. Don't know where I got it, but dentist said it was killing me.

I set up a motion sensor to play a recording if anyone gets too close to my shop AFTER it tells me someone is screwing around out there.

So what was it? A POS fall in and clog the master? BTW, you should ONLY use Castrol GTLMA fluid for longevity with these due to real rubber seals being used.

Ammeters have indeed caused a LOT of Car-B-Ques due to their tendency to corrode the anode terminal.

Did it always live in Bozeman? Didn't think salt was an issue there

Current rig: SOA and matching lift to clear 33/9.50/15s BA10/5 to AW4 and 4x4 Military interior lights from a tank (previous owner used a US flag for the ceiling, so truck got named Sarge)

People never notice mine is a pickup unless I take my canopy off!

If it was auto, it'll be 3.55 and 5 spd had 3.07

Another one happened to me recently. Bent the backing plate enough to touch the rotor slightly when I rushed through a puddle that was deeper than anticipated.

Dammit dude! I need that rear cab 1/2 for my extendacab MJ I want to build!

BlackJack '84 J10 with 4.0L, AW4/NV241 rock loc 4:1 '87 MJ '82 Spirit becoming an SX4 clone '82 Honcho in need of body parts '68 Travelall "mighty pumpkin bus" Image Not Found

Try a bit of fuel directly into the throttlebody. The last chance for the pump. They are pretty easy to change once the tank is down. I did one on my son's ex-GF's dad's '01 Caravan that the prick never did pay me for. Not even parts cost and I did it after work on Father's day in freezing rain on the side of the road!

twelve with 40 years experience! :rotf:

quote="jpnjim" For the most part, the newer the better: 1974+ has improved (Wag style) ft suspension (2.5" wide leaf SUA vs earlier 2" wide SOA) A: AND open knuckle diffs for narrower turning circle! I think the Wags got the open knuckle sooner than '74, but still with 5 lug front drums. The Jtrucks were closed till '74 (I had a '73 J4000, '72 J2000, '68 J300, '66 J100, '75 J20, '76, '77, '78, '80, '82, '83 and '84 J10s plus various Wagoneers, Grand Wagoneers and FSJ Cherokees) 1974+ has disc brakes (at least optional) 1976+ has better boxed frame A: The front of the frame around the steering box was beefed up. The rest looks to be the same. I put a '77 J20 D60 rear in my '73 J4000. Bolted right in and I flipped the shackles so shortening the rear shaft wasn't needed. 1980+ has drivers side ft diff A: and centered rear diff Exceptions to newer = better: 1979 last year of TH400 trans & 1/2 ton T18 4spd's (stronger) A: T18A/NP208F was still available till '85 in Honchos and J20s. It was a Ford T18 (shorter than previous Jeep ones) with adapted Jeep bell. 1980+ = Chrysler 3spd auto's & T176 4spd's (I *think* 1980+ J20's still got T18's) A: 6 cyls mostly got the 999 (weak converter necks) and the 727 was set up for mushy car-like shifting with poor cooling. 1979 = last year of built in cab visor A: '82, like my Honcho 1979 = last year of pass side diff 1978 = last year of 401/4bbl 1974 = first year of FSJ 401/4bb A: Supposedly the 401 ONLY came with TH400 and no factory 4 speeds were made. IH also used the AMC 401 around '74, but only with a 2300 2 bbl carb. 1973 = last year of 5 lug axles (74+ J10=6lug J20=8lug) A: Getting rid of front drum and closed knuckle wasn't a bad thing. Some J4000's prior to '74 got the 8 lug and some even came with dual wheels.

1. What was the pricing way back in the day for a bare bones J10? I always wondered about that. A: Never looked into it as I couldn't afford one back then. I drove $50 and $100 used cars a lot. 2. Are there specific years I look for when I pick one of these up? IE: X Year had better engine layouts than X year; or X year had less chance of frame rot than X year. Obviously the last year for the J-Truck series (87) would be my preferred due to rarity. But I highly doubt I'll find an '87 J10. A: '88 is the last year of J20 production (I know of several) I like '80 and newer for the LH drop front setup, which made swapping the 258 for a 4.0L much easier. The trucks don't see as much frame rot unless used in the high salt areas. 3. What's the preferred engine in these/why? Everyone always boasts about the 360 and the 401 :drool: but always seems to dismiss the 258; mainly because most people w/ a 258 complain about it being a gutless engine w/ no power. My dad and mom used to have an Rambler back the mid 80's and my dad always felt the 258 was an unstoppable engine. IMHO, I would love to have the 258, just for the fact I could swap over to a 242. A: I like the 258 (for 4.0L swap later) or 304/290 (V8 power but still economical enough to drive daily) 4. Preferred transmission/why? I've read stories on most of the different offered transmissions for these things and I've heard good and bad, pricey and not-so-pricey (when it comes to replacement parts/overhauls) A: Stock, 727 for auto (9xx series is weaker unle$$ beefed up) and T18 for stick. Too bad the T5 used '80-'83 was weaker than the AX-15. I don't dislike the TH400, but QT and factory D20 weren't the best options (weak adapters for serious off-roading) 5. 4x4? Pros and Cons of transfercases? I'd like to have a 4 wheel drive vehicle someday, if for just occasional off-road use and maybe for emergency puposes; but what 4x4 system should I look for? Likewise, what transfercases are good choices, and which ones aren't? A: QT eats chains if you seriously wheel. NP208 is good, but the chain can skip in them too (it just doesn't usually stop your forward momentum like the QT chain does) NP228, 229 and 219 are okay for road rigs. The factory TH400-D20 adapter breaks VERY easily due to a defect in the castings. 6.Where are the worst spots on the truck for rust? I've heard that rust is predominate on the bed; just like most everyone has run around like Fred Flinstone at some point with the MJ's on this site. A: Full frame so rust isn't as much an issue as with an MJ. 7. What's the best piece of advice you could give someone wanting one of these? Other than you better have some deep pockets and a lot of patience.... Now where have I heard that one before? A: Find the best body you can to start with.