AMCJeepMJ

I told the guy that if he fixes the title issue and flushes the coolant until green then we can play ball. It's just disappointing since I was hoping to drive home in a 92. I don't mind a few weekend projects since the car I would be swapping just sits and is doing just as much good.

Came close to a car trade today, but I think the MJ owner would have come out far ahead; was going to trade my 03 Cavalier for a 92 MJ... the Cav works/drive fine, is road legal, and everything operates [bad tires and minor body damage to fender] but the MJ has: 140k 2wd 2.5 long bed, 5 speed, base model, no A/C, and a 1992 model year Rusty coolant and clean but dirty oil intermittent noisy valves or lifters? Low clutch pedal engagement [fluid full but dark] Noisy fuel pump... like hear it 15 feet away noisy Shakes at 55-60 [old tires or track bar? could not isolate vibration] Last registration sticker on tag was 2008 Minor body damage to rocker panels and both bumpers Bad headliner Thoughts on the issues or the potential even trade [i know ev1 here is biased for the MJs and Cavs are universally hated]? The truck is 140 miles away and would hate for it to crap out going over the pass [snow/ice].

John, thanks for the heads up about HPR; it doesn't appear to be available outside of CA at the moment, but like every other trend it'll be only a matter of time before OR adopts it. Next time I'm in Cali in the Benz I will give it a shot. Shelby I will monitor the MPG to see if there is a significant drop for the overall tank; I get currently get about 31-33 average and have received 44.9 on a single run with cruise set at 55.

Stock: 205 hp 368 lb/ft torque. Get it chip tuned: 235 hp & 415 lb/ft torque I stand corrected on the WK diesel; the W211 is rated at 400 on the same engine.

Stopped by the local Shell station to fill the Benz (07 W211 CDI) up with diesel recently and after the fill noticed that it was B20 biodiesel that I tanked up with (thanks for the info, fuel attendant! (in Oregon, BTW)). The car seems to run fine with it and the dash is not lighting up like a Christmas tree and the information center is not displaying any issues or errors. Performance and economy seem to be unaffected. With that said are there any pros or cons to this 20% biodiesel blend comparing it to 100% dinosaur ULSD diesel? The www speculation is all over the map with the love/hate for it and shortened/prolonged engine life. I am hoping for some real-world feedback by those that have actually used it for some time before I decide to keep running B20 or just stick to ULSD?

So what happened with the diesel WK? The WKs have the same engine as in my 07 W211 Bluetec, and puts out about 400 lb. ft. of torque.

Right turn signal on when headlights are on indicates a bad bulb socket in the signal lens.

Not without modification of where they bolt in. I ran in to this when I put a 91 XJ belt in my 87 MJ. Also, the male buckle heads were different between the years so if you go this route be sure to grab the female buckle portion the belt clicks in to.

210k and purrs like a 28 year old kitten.

We have Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor tires on our Escape and have the white lettering facing out. A few incidents with rubbing against a curb have put white spots/marks on the front right tire, but that's all a part of putting a teen through driver's education.

Mods for my canopy/camper/topper include re-screening of the side windows, painted the exterior from dark blue to clearcoat beige to match the rest of the truck, and installed an LED light from an RV which uses a quick-connect to aid in easy removal of the canopy when necessary. I considered a storage drawer and sleeping arrangement set up made of wood in the bed and a series of curtains for the side windows, but decided against all the dead weight in the back of the truck when it was not being used for camping 362 days a year.

No recommendations for LED lighting yet? https://olympusoffroad.3dcartstores.com/Zeus-LED-Headlight-Pair_p_161.html Images: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/lighting-electronics/1116962-zeus-off-road-led-lighting.html

http://comancheclub.com/topic/39129-quadratec-ultimate-floor-liners/?hl=floor+mats&do=findComment&comment=393763 My thoughts on these floor mats in the above link.

Nice. Can't wait to see this header in action. The 'glamor shot' was probably cleaned up/shopped to hide the seams. I am sure it will work out fine. A lot of smaller aftermarket builders of equal-length headers use pieces like this [but clean it up a little nicer].

Last tank fill on October 21st was $3.219/gal... previous tank fill on September 17th was a $3.789/gal at same station. The last time I paid this low per gallon was February 13th of this year. The lowest I have paid all year long was on January 16th at $3.169/gal. All of these were for 87 octane at the Fred Meyer gas station here in town... I even try to get the same pump each fill just to remain consistent on tracking fuel economy.

Thank you. :thumbsup:

In reference to the below part #5, Is it necessary to replace the crush spacer #5 when replacing the seal if the pinion nut is returned to the original position plus a little bit after a new pinion seal #7 is put in?

That'd be nice to have, especially in a location such as NYC; looks better than a Dakine bumper diaper.

When you receive it, grab some pics and fill us in on the install as well as if you notice any changes in sound or power. I am interested in how this turns out.

The XJ and MJ did not have a 7-slot grille in the early body style ... ever. Up through 1987 it was 10 slots, from 1988 through 1996 it was 8 slots. I knew what I meant ;) I stand corrected at 8 intead of 7. Goes to show how much I think about the number of slots in the grilles.

I went with a 7-slot grille for a few years and finally went back to the 10-slot as the 7-slot was not 'accurate' for an early 87 model. Not that it mattered to anyone but me. I blocked the two end slots on each side in an attempt to improve the aero of the rig.

Thanks; if you could post some pics of the rear setup I would be grateful.

My daily driver MJ has 208k [148k when purchased] on it, and no problems; then again, it sees almost no offroad and is driven at low highway speeds (45-55) most of the time so it has a pretty easy time.

Did you have to modify the driveshaft length to do this pull of the rear drop? What kind of shocks were used in the rear with the new S10 leaf springs? For the front, what kind of track bar and drag link did you use due to the lowered suspension? Is the front axle [or axle tube] hitting any underbody components under full compression?

With all the accessories on that thing I bet it was once somebody's pride and joy. Running boards, visor, hood bra, canopy, block heater. Too bad about the rust.