schardein

Interesting thread and cool mod. They used to make Ford Type starter solenoids with built-in "starter" buttons to bump the motor from in the engine compartment. Also handy when doing old school tuning. If you look at the Jeep 4.0 thermostat housing, it looks like there is a round "boss" on the front of it. I've drilled and tapped those to install a temp switch, to control an electric fan. This would be another place to mount the gauge, although you'd see temps right as the coolant comes out of the engine, rather than halfway through the cooling process.

I've got some if you need more.

Are you saying you have the harness connector and your 91 does have a working ashtray light? Yes, I added the ashtray light to my MJ, connector was there and powered. My 91 XJ had it from the factory, or at least when I got it.

My MJ has the ash tray light connector. If my 91 has it I suspect the earlier ones do too. I say this because the earlier models were all wired for the cargo light, even if it wasn't optioned at the factory. However, 91-92 are not. I guess Chrysler was trying to save money?

I have to admit that I believe sometimes people overthink the whole oil question. I went to school 27 years ago to be a mechanic. There is an old adage, "10 psi for every 1000 rpm". So 8-10 psi at an idle is probably ok, regardless of what the factory specs call for. I buy cheap walmart dino oil of viscosity recommended by the manufacturer, bargain filters by the case, and change my oil around 5000 miles. The only oil related engine failure I've experienced was some failed rod and main bearings on a Buick V6 in a 1967 Jeep. This was on a steep, long hill climb with extended high rpms, and oil starvation was probably the culprit, rather than lack of oil pressure, per se. For those that are dealing with climate extremes, I can see the need for a specialized oil. Otherwise, I don't get to wrapped up about it. I've rolled hundreds of thousands of miles with this philosophy, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. My 2 cents.

I've pulled two of these from the junkyard and ran one for awhile. Took it off the last time it was in the way, and left it off. If I remember correctly, they front mounting points use sort of a threaded stud with a washer in the middle, but attached to the bolt. It attaches to the crossmember with a nut on the top, and then a nut on the bottom holds the skidplate on. I remember when grabbing the skidplate, I grabbed those bolts also. I don't have any experience using the part as protection, but I will say they feel substantial, and the bottom lip is reinforced on the back with a piece of welded on angle iron. I would think they can take a pretty good hit.

I wouldn't listen to anyone saying replace a 242 with a 231. I think those comments stem from the fact that 231s are more readily available, and it's quicker fix to do a remove & replace instead of a remove & rebuild. I've got a 242 waiting to be gone through for my future 4wd conversion. Interested to see what responses you get for parts/write-ups.

That answers that.

Yes, that's kind of what I was asking, although I don't know if it was a factory option or not. I would try to find that out, as well as verify what gears were in it by physically reading the number off the ring gear. No way I'd by an axle without physically viewing the gears.

Was 4.11 a factory offering? If it was added later, value will depend on the quality of work. Does it have an open/limited slip/locking differential? And is it complete drum-to-drum? If the brakes are there, are they usable? For a clean, correct MJ D44, with 4.11s, and serviceable brakes and parking brake cables, ready to install, I would consider $500 fair. Price up for a limited slip/locker, price down for anything less. Or, if no one else in the local area is making offers, then your best offer is what he will get.

Here is my 2 cents. I used to mud bog a full size K5 Blazer with a full floater 14 bolt rear axle. Mud destroys drum brakes. And tearing apart a full float axle to clean/rebuild once a month was time consuming. A disc brake conversion was best thing I ever did to that axle (the only thing, really). Never failed from mud and didn't have to dig into it to change the pads. And the discs provided a LOT more braking. But that was bad. The rear end would lock up first, and if you don't know what happens next... the back end and front end try to switch places! You want the front to lock up first, just before the rear. I installed one of those "dial" type pressure reducers, dialed almost all the way down (instructions said that was 66%) and it was perfect. Parking brakes. I've seen two types on disc brakes. One is the caliper itself has an arm that applies pressure to the pads. The other is a tiny drum brake assembly INSIDE the disc assembly. Neither one of these is as effective as a regular drum brake parking brake. It's a matter of surface area (compared to the smaller inside the disc setup), and the servo action of drum brakes (compared to lever actuated caliper). This could be important for a truck with a manual transmission pulling a trailer. Or rock crawling and big tires. These are both places where you want a no compromise parking brake, and the factory drum setup will be the best (with good parts and properly adjusted). So there are times when a disc conversion makes sense. I would stay away from disc conversions that use a modified (machined) disc. This is a wear item that will need replaced and now will be even more expensive because it is a custom part. Most drum brakes on vintage trucks like our MJs are cheap to rebuild.

For painting interior plastic pieces, SEM products are worth the extra money and effort to locate. I have used them on extensive interior restorations. The three products I used were Sand Free, Adhesion Promoter, and Color Coat. I once repainted the interior of a K5 Blazer, and the color was a perfect match. I couldn't tell where the old paint ended and the new paint started except there were no more chips. It held up extremely well also. https://www.semproducts.com/refinish-flexible-coatings/color-coattm-aerosols As for rebuilding door panels, I've done that also. I've built up sun damaged plastic pieces with texture coat, and then color coat over that. Looked pretty good and cost WAY less than new "replacement" door panels (again this was on a Chevy). On the other hand, I've also handbuilt them from cardboard/hardboard/foam/automotive vinyl material. While I was initially happy with the results, over time I wished I just had the stock pieces.

I ran BFG MT 32x11.50s on factory 15x7 rims on a CJ7 and 30x9.50 tires on 5.5" wide rims on a CJ5 for years without issue.

Ditto on mine. Mine had the jack instructions and a white foam pad glued to the metal cab back, to cushion where the jack mounted. When I added the factory backer board, I had to peel off the foam pad, as there was one already on the backer board, as seen in the picture above. My backer had two mounting feet, and they were secured using hex head sheet metal screws (10mm head). When I installed mine, I didn't bother drilling the holes and using the screws, as the plastic trim on three sides does a good job of keeping it in place.

While this may not help, I will add: In many cases I am ok with aftermarket parts, but for the oil pan I will second what Minuit said. I frequent pick-a-part junkyards as a hobby and it is not uncommon to run across XJs or ZJs with the front axle already pulled and the engine still in place. When I see this I always eyeball the oil pan and if there is no obvious damage and it isn't super grimy I'll pull it. Having the axle out obviously makes it go faster. I have two oem pans cleaned up and ready to swap with Felpro gaskets for my XJ and MJ. As 91 Pioneer said, if you don't have a set of torque wrenches, invest in a set if you do even a little of your own repairs. Even an inexpensive beam type is better than nothing. Also, it's important to note that if you use a socket extension, which you likely will on an oil pan, it INCREASES the applied torque. There are mathematical formulas to figure out by how much. Attaching sheetmetal to the engine is one place you want to be careful and follow the sequence/specs per the manual.

Thanks. Found this $9.89. Order $75 of stuff and get free shipping: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Axle-Bearing-Retaining-Ring.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=514&t_pt=7893&t_pn=CRO83503077 Also found them on Rockauto under part #1656038 for $6.95. Shipping for 1-7 is $10.99. Shipping for 8-11 is $5.99. Kinda weird. Will have to do some more comparisons, adding in seals, and I am thinking of stocking up on the retainers for the future projects, to find the best deal.

Hmm do they come in burgundy...

I am going through a Dana 44. I have shafts out and want to replace the seals. The bearings look great. The seals are available, but I need to get the bearing retainer sleeve. It is the type that must be cut or drilled and chiseled off and therefore not reusable. $20 seems expensive for a darn bearing retainer. Anyone know of a cheaper source? http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-Replacement-83503077-Retainer/dp/B019QGBGF6/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1459983048&sr=8-15&keywords=dana+44+bearing+retainer

<-- I've wondered if replacement decals were available for the 91. I'd like to repaint mine someday and but want to keep the keep the decals.

1986 - $300 http://loz.craigslis...5510446105.html I've looked at this one if anyone is interested in details.

I think that the small HP gain, in addition to the much easier belt adjustment of the newer P/S pump setup makes it a worthwhile upgrade. At least at "pick-a-part" prices. Also makes sense if you are replacing a cracked exhaust manifold. If you are doing one, do the other at the same time.

Dang I saw this a day late. Went and looked at an 86 last night. Looked at the rear diff (nope it wasn't an AMC 20 or Dana 44) but didn't notice the spare tire hardware...

I have a D35 with 3.08 gears from an MJ. However, I'm in Missouri.

I pulled 703 injectors out of Dodge Neons at the junkyard and took them home and plugged them straight into my XJ and MJ without even a wipe down. In both cases I noticed a slightly smoother idle. In both cases I also swapped to the later style intake, aftermarket exhaust manifold, new O2 sensor, and did a basic tune-up (dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, engine oil change) at or about the same time, so any other changes would be hard to attribute to the injectors alone.

By NoX sensor, do you mean oxygen sensor?