schardein

My 91 came with an aftermarket shaft type radio and door speakers surface mounted to the door panels, in the stock location. When I got my spec sheet from Chrysler, it said it was delivered without the radio option. I believe mine was dealer installed. The doors had hole plugs in place instead of the rubber tunnel for the wires. They had simply drilled small holes in the plugs to run the door speaker wires. I replaced these with the rubber tunnel from a junkyard Cherokee. It also did not have the rear speaker brackets or speakers in place.

A Dana 30 from a 2000 will be low pinion, I believe? Not a big deal unless you intend to have some lift and/or bigger tires. High pinion is stronger and will provide better driveline angles when lifted.

Wow that does look darn good! What was your procedure? I'm in the same boat and want the full gauges.

I only have experience with Warn, which I guess isn't a budget winch. I think an important question to ask is how often will you be using it. If it might get used once or twice a year, a budget winch might be the answer. If once a week or even month it might be worth saving up and getting a name brand. But with that being said, the once a year or so that I use mine, it has been a literal lifesaver. So much so, that I upgraded to a more powerful Warn just to have the reserve power if I needed it. I consider it safety equipment first, recovery equipment second.

I grabbed a washer bottle from a Cherokee that had a washer fluid level sensor in it, exact replacement for my original bottle and the "add fluid" light in the dash worked. After adding a bulb. On another truck I grabbed just the fluid level sensor, and using the bottle from the XJ as a template, cut the hole in my original bottle, and used it. Also worked well. If you are grabbing one from the junkyard take a meter along to check that the sensor actually works. I went through a couple that didn't before finding a good one.

I am interested in either a fully welded hitch (would need a shipping cost and some pics of a finished unit) or perhaps just the plates... in either way.

Wiring it directly with no connector is something you would probably regret down the road, if you ever had to replace your header panel for instance. Mine looked just like yours. I rebuilt it with pieces from the junkyard. I even found a harness that had factory fog light wiring in it. Just got the complete "lights" end of the harness, plugged it in, and put the switch in the dash. Then replaced the bad pins in the "truck" end of the harness. If you don't feel like rebuilding your factory connector, if you look around at some later model cars for 20 minutes, you will probably find a high quality connector with at least 8 wires in it. Cut it out leaving about 6" of wiring on both sides and splice that in.

I've got a full cluster out of a 87 MJ. It is in great shape and reads 167920 miles. $75 shipped. More pics available if you are interested. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Mixed metaphors. They're ok if the person knows they are doing it. That's even funny. But when they don't know... "Take a flying hike" "I'm watching you with a fine toothed comb"

Take a look at your brake cables, they may be rusted tight inside the sleeves, and when depressing the pedal, none of that movement is actually transferred to the brakes.

All the above is good advice. I just moved from VA, thankful I don't have emissions tax anymore! (I mean "inspections" :shake: ) The park brake issue sounds like a combination of things. If it is not holding, repairs are probably needed in the form of actually replacing parts. Some careful inspection of the rear brakes and parking brake cables is needed. Once that is done, you may find the other issues (number of clicks to apply, and park brake lever "slipping") may fix itself. The number of clicks can be adjusted by adjusting the parking brake cable. I would check a service manual as sometimes it specifies a proper range of clicks. If it does not, you may be able to argue that point with the inspector, bring the manual or a copy for proof. Or, go to another inspection station. Talk to some friends and locate a "customer friendly" place. I think I know what you are going to say. You have to pay first and if the problems are not fixed in a certain amount of time, you forfeit your payment. Going to another place forfeits the payment. I remember Virginia, and don't miss it! :shake:

Add me to the list of those interested. Following this topic.

I've got three 1991 motors with the late model intake and 4 hole injectors. I noticed an increase in power each time. The improved belt tension adjustment setup is enough reason for the mod in my opinion. Especially when the parts can be found cheap at the local pic-n-pull.

I also have driven many combinations of open/open, locked/locked, limited slip/locked, etc, etc. including Detroit Locker, Truetrac, OX, Lockrite, Tracloc, EZ locker, Powerloc, etc. I run a OX locker in the rear of my CJ7, and a Detroit in front. Love the Detroit Locker for it's simplicity and since I have free wheeling hubs, when I unlock the hubs and disengage the rear OX, I am open/open for the street. The final choice is up to you, but this is my 2 cents. I built my Jeeps on a strict budget. But some of the best money I ever spent for new parts was a selectable locker.

Did you change axles too? I switched from a dana 35 to a Chrysler 8.25 (this is in my XJ) and picked up some rear end gear noise at about 45-55 mph. Annoying but doubt it is serious. Also, my XJ had a super annoying driveline hum and weird clunking noise. Turned out to be the transmission rubber mount. It looked fine, but was soaked with oil and super soft. The clunk was the whole transmission and transfer case bumping up and down whenever I hit a slight bump. New mount completely cured it.

That's nice. Is that a dual diaphragm booster I see? Also I see an underhood light. I'm familiar with the part. Did you do away with the stock one on the pass side?

Are you talking about the rear panel? That is the a factory rear panel I sourced from the junkyard. It is similar in design to a door panel, a heavy cardboard backing with the carpet glued to it. It also has some thin stamped metal feet that are attached to it, that are then secured to the floor with screws. Here is a pic of where the feet screw to the floor:

I read this. Remembered I had the same issue. Also did most of the same fixes. Went out and checked, but it is not doing it anymore. About a month ago I replaced my entire front lighting harness with one that had factory fog light wiring (got it from the junkyard). Cleaned all the terminals at the main harness connection behind the driver headlight, both the truck side and light side. I can only conclude that is what fixed it.

So I've got a pair of extra burgundy door pockets. I was thinking of listing them for sale, but thought, would anyone really want them? What else could I do with them? Then I had a thought. Whadayathink?

You know there is the lever, and then the switch itself is a separate piece inside the column. The lever may very well be the issue, but if it is the switch that is bad, that is a separate part inside the column. Replacing just the lever is like replacing a manual transmission shift lever, when the transmission has worn out synchronizers.

The rear view mirrors can be swapped if you weren't swapping the entire door. Wiper transmission might have less wear in the bushings if it is lower mileage than your MJ. Which transfer case does it have? NP242 has the full time option. Are the wheels the 16" TJ/LJ Rubicon Moabs? If so those are nice. I believe some people swap in the center console to get drink holders. Engine will have the late model intake manifold and power steering bracket/pump (if it is a 4.0) which is an upgrade for earlier HO Jeeps. Not sure if it will work on Renix. Don't know if the dual diaphragm brake booster is a direct swap. I would check the speakers to see if they are upgraded. Front doors/rear sound bar use 5 1/4" speakers which are a direct fit for MJ door speakers. That's all I can think of now...

A common thing I've seen on early HO motors with the fuel regulator on the fuel rail is dry rot and cracking of the rubber elbow that attaches the vacuum line to the fuel regulator. A simple solution is the cut the plastic vacuum line just in front of the elbow, and add a short section of appropriate size vacuum hose to replace the elbow. Cutting the plastic line further from the elbow allows for a nice, gradual bend in the added rubber vacuum hose. Some planning/visualization before making the cut is easy to do. I suppose a replacement elbow is probably available somewhere, but for me the hose was on the shelf. I mention this because of your pics #1 and #3. And in the upper right corner of pic #2, I am assuming you know there should be a bolt in that hole. If you go with a simple bracket replacement, getting the bolts with replacement bracket would be a good idea. Usually they won't charge extra for that at the pic-n-pull.

Same here, just threw out 2 sets earlier this year. If you have ever considered switching your intake for the 1999+ type, you also need to use the matching P/S pump bracket, so now might be the time to do it. The manifold itself is usually around $25-$40 and then all you need is a belt and gasket. Aaaand if you are doing this much, might as well replace the cracked exhaust manifold with the aftermarket type that are less prone to cracking (if the stocker is not already cracked, it will). I've done this, plus replacing the valve cover with the later stamped steel type that uses a screw in oil fill cap and leak-proof blue felpro gasket and replacing the stock injectors with the 4 hole design on all three of my 4.0 HO engines. I know this is a lot more involved than a simple bracket replacement, but if it is in future plans, now might be the time.... Wanted to add that in addition to some added horsepower the manifold swap provides, the newer PS bracket is a lot simpler, which in turn makes belt tension adjustment MUCH easier than the early HO setup.

I have a lot of experience searching parts at pic-n-pulls, and you will find the rear driveshafts are bent when they move the vehicle into place with a forklift.

Is this still available? Need somewhere to stash all the TIE fighters rusting away in the backyard.