schardein

Aah. Wondered about that.

Darn, saw one in a pic-a-part in Nashville. Didn't grab it though. I see you are in VA Beach, if you ever make it to Fredericksburg there are two really good pic-a-part places, owned by the same people, one in Fredericksburg and one a little ways north in Stafford (http://www.pickapartva.com) They always have XJs. Although that pre 87 stuff is harder to find.

MN is a little far for me. Would need something a little closer. As for price, I'm willing to pay pic-a-part prices (about $30-$40 per wheel). Just picked up 6 over the last week, but want a few more for some projects I'm planning. Thanks though!

Chrome plated -- they'll turn to rust in a year. Do they take a 3/4" socket, or do they need a 13/16" socket? Good point, whatever you get it's a good idea to make sure they are 3/4" so the factory lug wrench works.

It looks like the 125ds is present on the left one in the picture. It should use a torx bolt for the single bolt hole on the end. Looks like the right one in the picture may indeed be missing that bracket. As for the other two brackets, aren't they already welded to the main bracket? I think those are what the tow hooks are actually bolted to in the picture.

The factory with stainless covers are nice in that the cover doesn't rust, but as mentioned they loosen up when being removed/replaced (even with a regular wrench over time) and when the cover falls off, the remaining nut is slightly undersized, which could lead to rounding it off, usually when you are on the side of the road in a bad spot. I recently replaced all of mine with solid chrome ones, off ebay. Yes they will eventually rust but they are still better than stock in my opinion. I had over 50 of the original lug nuts (replaced all on both my XJ and MJ, plus collected spares) and sold them for .50 per. Glad they are gone. If you have a pic-n-pull near you, you can get factory lugs cheap, as they were also used on Grand Cherokees and Libertys, as well as XJ, MJ, etc. I've been to some places where they pull every single wheel before it goes into the yard, so might want to check that before making a long drive. Anyway it worked for me, as I replaced a good number over the years this way. Finally went to the solid ones as a final fix. I don't think any of the factory type are any better whether they are OEM or aftermarket. I have seen solid stainless lugs, can't remember where. Think they were expensive.

Important to make sure the bumper brackets are not bent. They are just the stock flimsy ones welded to the tow hook brackets. They are welded on pretty darn good and a bear to grind/cut off.

Just like the title says, interested in factory 10 spoke aluminum wheels, w or w/o center caps. I'm in central MO. Interested in sets, pairs or singles.

Just did a 2,200 mile road trip in my 2001 Silverado w/ 265,000 miles on the clock. It sputtered twice and died on the interstate. Had to get a tow and repair. It was the fuel pump. Interesting thing is although it completely died on me, the mech said he was able to bang on the fuel tank with his fist to get it to run enough (roughly) to pull into the shop under it's own power. Might be worth trying next time it acts up?

I agree that the clip is a good idea. Are you getting it from the dealer?

You sir are correct. My 1989 Wagoneer had this clip. After much searching found one for my 91 XJ. I've only seen them on Renix era XJs. Finally found one for my MJ. What did I win? Internet notoriety, bragging rights, and personal satisfaction!

That's genius. I have the tool and carry it with me in my bag on junkyard outings. That would save some room and a little weight.

You sir are correct. My 1989 Wagoneer had this clip. After much searching found one for my 91 XJ. I've only seen them on Renix era XJs. Finally found one for my MJ.

I don't get the reference. Movie?

OK, so who can tell me what this is? Don't beat yourself up to hard, I already know. Consider it a test! /uploads/archive/2fb7de95f38ca1a1aca1712b89e23464/a864f17ae8f96baf176e43b82abde32c.jpg

In the Music City Pick-a-Part in Nashville. 4 cyl, manual, 2wd, short bed, D35, idiot lights, bench, no tailgate or right taillight, left taillight broken, hit on driver front. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not FoundImage Not Found

That's what I thought. Eagle, thanks for your reply. Now I wonder if the motor was original to the vehicle or swapped in at some point. It had around 201,000 miles when I got it and was bone stock, although I suspect preventative maintenance had been completely neglected and what corrective maintenance had been done was shoddy at best.

I have a 1991 Xj with a block casting number of 903MX16. I decode this as a 4.0 built 16 Mar 1989. The jeep is setup as HO, not Renix (which is correct for year). The odd thing is it doesn't have the boss or bolt holes for mounting the ignition coil on the pass side of the block, near the distributor. The coil is held in place by one of the Alternator/AC bracket bolts and looks completely out of place. Everything else looked stock when I got it. Has anyone ever seen this before? I don't have a Renix engine to compare, were the coils mounted differently? Could this possibly be a Renix block in the HO Jeep? I also have a 1991 MJ, engine code is 010MX25 (4.0 25 Oct 1990). It has the coil mounted to the block near the dist like any other 4.0ho I've seen (before the coil pack on the head came out).

Have you tried replacing your renix dist with a new or used (but known to be good) dist? The dist could have worn bushings, or a cracked dist shaft, or other defect that contributes to the bad idle. Also, I seem to remember reading somewhere that the dist gear could be put on two ways, but only one is right, the other way would cause the timing to be off. Can't remember if that is a Jeep motor or something else...

I don't have any experience on the 4 cylinder, but on the 4.0 there is a bracket and pulley that bolts on in place of the AC compressor. I got mine from a junkyard XJ that did not have AC from the factory (I was in Hawaii at the time, never have seen another one), but I have seen similar "AC bypass" pulleys before. I don't know if they are available for the 4cyl though.

There are you tube videos that show different methods for cleaning. I replaced the injectors on three 1991 4.0 engines (in my XJ, MJ, and CJ) with "703" Neon injectors straight from the junkyard, with no cleaning and re-using the o-rings that were on them. Guess I got lucky on all three, zero issues.

I've had Rancho 5000 on a full size Blazer, and two Toyotas, a stock 1985 and a lifted 1980. Ride was ok for the Blazer (lifted with 35s), ok for the lifted 1980 with 33s, and horriblely stiff on the 1985 with stock sized tires. For 235s and stock suspension, I would go with a stock type replacement. Rockauto has some good deals with rebates from several manufacturers.

Look for closeouts on RockAuto. I use it to buy stuff like belts, hoses, wiper blades, brake components, filters and the like at steep discounts and keep it on the shelf because I know I will eventually use it. I maintain 5 vehicles that are registered/insured so this alone saves me a lot of money. Of course you have to have room to store the stuff and keep it organized so you know what you have and where it's at, if you can't do that it might not be worth it.

I've done some work in the columns before, and have the tools, so I'm not afraid of them. Just added cruise, fishing that wire down the column can be frustrating. One of the good things about picking parts at the junkyard is you go through the learning experience while pulling, makes the install go faster and easier. I'd sure appreciate if a switch was available from a member, but I have to keep things in perspective. Delay wipers are nice, but not neccessarily $50 nice on my 4th vehicle. I'd certainly be open to a ~$20 part and reasonable shipping cost.

I think I still have some. Will look tomorrow. You don't need the panel? All the ones I've seen, that isn't a removable plug, it's molded into the panel.