schardein

I put FC-150 & FC-170 in the same category, and I'd like to have one of each also...

It would have been about 1983-84 when my Mom said they were looking at a new car. I figured another Ford Station Wagon (would have been the third). She says, no, a Jeep. I'm like HOLY COW YES. She hands me the brochure for the Eagle. I'm like, that's not a Jeep. And it's ugly. We ended up with a Suburban. She let me drive it off the lot with single digit miles. Saw an Eagle at the junkyard about a year ago. Very rare sight. I still think they are ugly, but also that they were ahead of their time, and I would buy it if it was within an hour drive. I think it would be easy and super cool to swap in a fi 4.0

Yes please.

The springs are for a CJ5 I am doing a frame off rebuild on. So no hurry and I have several projects in front of it. I have a lead for a spring shop in St. Louis that has them, but want to see them in person, they are only open during the week, and it's a 2.5 hour drive for me. I'll have to have another reason to drive that far. $40 for six seems horribly, ridiculously expensive to me. Considering I need 4 per spring, (I think?), I'm spending $120 for these parts? I don't have that much in buying the used springs, buying the new tip inserts, buying new center bolts, dry lubricant, and paint. Maybe a little more than $120 when adding the cost of new oem style bushings. But at that additional expense, I probably should have just bought new springs. I'm confident I'll find a reasonably priced source if I'm patient. "Build it, and it will happen", or something like that.

I think with 30s you could still use the stock jack. Have you tried it to see? If you need more, I would suggest a small hydraulic bottle jack and a small board to widen it's footprint on soft ground. Many will probably suggest a hi-lift jack, but in my experience, that is a heavy, bulky item to carry around on a daily basis. I have one but rarely carry it in my off road Jeep, even on the toughest trails.

Picture? AAARRRGGG - Sunny day.......... Sweet. That stance/height is exactly what I want mine to be eventually.

$6.66 a piece! That's... evil? I think I ran across those when I first started looking, months ago. Thanks, but I couldn't bring myself to pay that much. There has to be a source to buy that stuff by the foot or roll.

For the seat sliders, not sure what you are looking for. I have several seats of XJ brackets, including the type that pivot/tilt back (the frame, not the seatback). They are all for the buckets that have the rounded bottom. However, the sliders don't come off easy, they are riveted on. Are you asking to have the sliders cut off the mount?

1991 4.0 AW4 (2wd) 3.55 235/75-r15 driving mostly 50 miles daily round trip to work on country highways, occasionally around town during lunch with one or two 100 mile trips on the interstate, last six months average = 18.5 mpg. High of 19.9, low of 16.7.

Picture?

I am rebuilding a set of leaf springs, and need a source for the rubber strips that go in the leaf spring clamps. See the pic. I've looked high and low. I've even went to the junkyard with the sole purpose of taking these off a newer pack of springs, and most I looked at were the same or worse than mine. I'd even buy a big roll of the stuff if I could find a source.

I've converted all three of my 1991 4.0 motors to the later model stamped steel cover using the blue molded/steel core gasket. I got all three from the junkyard, including the gaskets and all three sealed up and still good years later. Plastic nipples and rubber grommet replacements are available for fairly cheap off amazon. I've got the part numbers in the garage if you need them. If a nipple is broken, you will likely have to destroy the hardened rubber grommet to replace the nipple. Plan on replacing both. Also I seem to recall that the swap requires a different (or modded stock?) breather hose to the factory airbox. Recommend getting everything (VC, gasket, bolts, hoses) if getting it from the junkyard. The places I go don't charge anymore for the other stuff and it comes in handy.

:thumbsup:

I have an extra bolt and sleeve. If you are willing to pay shipping it's yours. PM me.

I've also been very impressed with Discount Tire Direct. When it was time to replace the Michelins (265/75-16) on my Silverado, I took the deal I could get from Discount Tire to three local shops, and said if they could match it, they had a sale. None could. Their holiday sales+discounts+rebates+free shipping=win.

It has been a challenge for me to find burgundy seats and other interior parts. Gray and tan seems to be more common.

I've had 4:1 Teralow gears in a Dana 300 in my CJ7 for about 10 years. If you can rebuild a transfer case, you can install the gears. I do a lot of four wheeling, and they have given me zero problems. Recently disassembled the case to put in a new input shaft (Installing a Vortec 5.3, adding a clocking ring and clocking the case close to flat). The gears look like new. Can't help on the 231 questions as I don't have much experience working on them. Not sure of the benefit of a 160:1 crawl ratio. My 67 CJ5 and my CJ7 both have a 75:1 low/low and I can't imagine needing twice that.

Completed a project that has been in the works for over a year. Learned some things about XJ/MJ seats along the way. My brackets are MJ originals that were rusted but usable. Spent quite a while cleaning them up. The seats came from a 92 two door XJ and were tan. Got the burgundy seat covers from a 90 XJ 4dr. 2 door and 4 door seat covers are NOT the same, but can work. Overall I'm very happy with the way it turned out. My question is the female seat belt ends. I used the ones from the 90 XJ. Does anyone know if the MJ bucket seat female ends were different, or were they identical to the XJ?

Was the motor hot/warm when you took it apart?

Also, from what you wrote above, the temp gauge appears to be working and more or less accurate. I would continue to focus on getting the speedo working first.

Might need to research a little deeper. Two sensors could have different part numbers, but have the same electrical specs and the only difference being the type of wire connection. Not saying that is the case, but could be.

As others have said, it looks like an 84-87 cluster. A difference I've noticed is the temp gauge. Earlier (84-86) ones I've seen have the blue colored band for the lower part of the scale and the red band for the high end. Later ones only have the red band.

I've never learned or heard of what determines the best choice for a pilot bearing, the choices being an actual roller bearing or a bronze bushing. As for a messed up pilot tip on the transmission input shaft, if it is light rust or scratches, I would not be afraid to clean it up with emery cloth and run it. I would guess the worst that could happen is it might be a little noisy, although I doubt even that, especially if using a bushing and not a roller bearing. If the tip was significantly scarred, I would look at replacing the input shaft and possibly the bearing, and then double checking it for concentricity with the crankshaft centerline. On the other hand, it sounds like you have access to a machine shop. You could clean up the pilot tip on a lathe, and if it came out undersized, you could custom match the input bushing to it. Might be cheaper than a new shaft. Just be careful to keep everything concentric.

Uniden pro510xl http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-40-Channel-CB-Radio-PRO510XL/dp/B00004VXNF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462705063&sr=8-1&keywords=uniden+510 Uniden pro520xl http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-PRO520XL-40-Channel-CB-Radio/dp/B00004VXNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462705063&sr=8-2&keywords=uniden+510 I have used these over the years. The 520 adds a ch9 switch, PA function, and RF gain. None of which are necessary if you don't need them. I like the front mounting microphone (some other units mount in the side) and the fact that it is screw on versus pins that just plug in (a little more water resistant also). Fairly inexpensive, and can be had for cheaper if you are patient and watch ebay.

I've messed with these idler pulleys quite a bit over the years. I finally bought a 10 pack of the replacement bearings (fairly inexpensive). Press out the old ones and press in new ones. Can even be done in a shop vise if it is large enough and one has a selection of large sockets, similar procedure to replacing driveshaft universal joints. For me, working on several cars, buying bulk replacement bearings was the most economical and practical solution. As Hornbrod stated, I would stay away from the plastic pulleys if at all possible. I recently had one with a bad bearing and discovered that the bearings are molded into them and are not removable. Very frustrating when I have new bearings ready to press in. If your original wasn't plastic, I would definitely look for a OEM type replacement, or just replace the bearing in your original.