schardein

That is sexy as hell. I hit the pic-n-pulls whenever I can, and the feeling when you find that part...

Did this repair, what a difference! A big improvement for little money and little time!

Or, just realized I have an extra factory one. Could sell it $15 plus shipping? Local picnpull charges $10.79.

If I remember right, there are later model ones that look the same but use a weatherproof style connector. I believe I've seen these on XJs (92+ with the water bottle on the pass side). You still have to cut the hole, and be sure to get the connector if sourcing from a junkyard. Also a good idea to take an electrical meter and test the sensor before buying, as I've had them go bad (hence my search for a replacement). You can splice the connector onto your wires. If you have converted to an open system, and removed the coolant bottle, you can use the later model washer on the pass side. It is more work because you have to extend your wires and tube, but it leaves more room for a dual diaphragm brake conversion. Or, do as Hornbrod did and use the 96+ style that mounts in the driver fender. It also has a level sensor.

Thank you for the reply. I am looking at this for the R134a: https://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-R-134a-Cylinder-30-lb/dp/B001DKPRRM/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467842626&sr=1-10&keywords=r134a Is this an example of a hose making tool you would recommend?: https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Black-Manual-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467842743&sr=1-2&keywords=ac++hose+kit

That makes sense! The longer console covers the shift cables. Although the shift boot / shift indicator both fit each console. So one could use the longer one in a manual app I think.

I agree, except do you have the left and right switched in your comment? I'm wondering if the shorter one is a MJ specific part, and if so, is there a downside to using the longer one in an MJ?

I've noticed several AC related questions here lately, and wanted to get some opinions. I have three vehicles I need to repair the AC in. 2001 Silverado, 1991 XJ, 1991 MJ. About 5 years ago, the Chevy was vacuumed down at a shop, held vacuum, was refilled, worked good for a year, then nothing. R134a The XJ has never worked since I've owned it. It has been converted to R134a at some point in the past. The MJ has never worked. Still R12. I just bought a 3cfm vacuum pump and a set of gauges from Harbor Freight. I also have a CPS scale for weighing the R134a can so I can monitor exactly how much I put in. I intend to get all three working. I am planning to buy a 30lb can of R134a since I have several vehicles to maintain. My question is on the MJ. I am thinking of just replacing the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, dryer and lines. Since I am replacing almost everything, could I buy all the parts for a 94-95 XJ model, and have parts that are already designed for use with R134a? Also, any downsides to not replacing the evaporator? I really don't feel like completely tearing down the interior if I can avoid it. Once done, I then plan to repair the XJ. I could use the same approach of replacing everything, but I could also look at the parts removed from the MJ as possible donors, if they are in better shape than the XJ stuff (MJ 150,000 miles, XJ 220,000 miles) I don't have any formal training on AC systems, but I have been doing a lot of reading on it. Are there any other tools I should look at getting? I know this is a lot, thanks for any comments or opinions.

I have a couple short consoles. One is shorter than the others. See this pic: The longer one I pulled from an XJ (93-94 model) The shorter one, I don't remember where I pulled it, but I think it was from a Comanche. Does anyone know if there are specific applications for these two different consoles?

I've pulled a couple stock ones from junkyards over the years, including one from a ZJ. It had that same piece as in the first picture, and I assumed it was a drain.

Also, you mention in your first post that you have a PA box in the way. Not sure what kind of PA system you have, but the 520 has a PA option, meaning it has a jack on the back to plug a PA speaker into, and a switch on the front to turn off the CB and then use the mic as your PA. You might consider dumping the stand alone PA and getting both functions in one unit.

Not a gimmick. Great space saver. My friend runs one in his LJ. With that said, this is a great CB for the money: https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-40-Channel-CB-Radio-PRO510XL/dp/B00004VXNF/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1467352130&sr=1-2&keywords=uniden+cb As is this one, if you think you need RF gain controls, a PA option, and instant ch9 access: https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-PRO520XL-40-Channel-CB-Radio/dp/B00004VXNI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1467352495&sr=8-1&keywords=uniden+cb+pro520 I once picked up three used 510 CBs for the price of one off ebay. I run the same model in all my vehicles. I like the front mounted mic, some mount on the side and present mounting issues in tight spaces. If buying used, make sure it comes with the mounting bracket and thumbscrews. Fabricating mounting brackets sounds easy but is a pain. As previously mentioned, all CBs are limited to a max output wattage. The biggest differences are options, marketing, and price.

I remember my 89 XJ Wagoneer running about there. My 91 XJ and 91 MJ cycle between the first mark and the 210 mark. I had a problem with overheating on my XJ on the Interstate in the summer on long inclines. Seemed like once it started rising, there wasn't any stopping it, it would continue towards the hot mark unless I stopped to let it cool down. I looked at everything and finally replaced the fan clutch for the belt driven fan which solved the problem.

I guess an EASILY lowered windshield went away when the TJ came out, but to me this is a big deal. I lower the W/S whenever the weather and trail permits. One of the things that makes a Jeep what it is.

Hm interesting, thanks.

Got this at an estate auction. Anybody ever heard of Filko?

I've added a temp gauge to a TH400 before. I welded in a threaded bung to the side of the oil pan to accept the electrical sending unit. I think another option is to add a fitting for the sending unit to one of the cooler lines. I've seen where people have added sensors to both lines, and they can toggle between them. This way they can see the temp of the fluid as it leaves the trans (HOT) and how much temp drop the cooler is providing. Keep in mind the sender has to have a path to ground. Neither method are specific to an AW4. If there is a better way that is specific to the AW4 I'm sure someone will chime in.

I had a similar experience with Lisle, great customer service + made in the USA = WIN.

Hahaha, I once spent 45 minutes pulling a receiver hitch off an XJ, only to find the back of it completely rusted away when I finally got it off. Looked mint on the front. :doh:

My 2001 Silverado 2500hd has 284,000 miles and is still going. I am a big fan of the 6.0 motor. I tow a 16' car trailer with my CJ7 on it. I'm happy with its performance doing that. I bought the truck with some minor issues, fixed those. It has given me a few issues since, a big one being a failed brake line (rusted) that led to a 180 degree spinout/emergency stop. If I had been pulling a trailer at the time, it would not have been pretty. Any used and/or high mileage vehicle will have its issues. While I have a preference for Chevy, I am not a fanatic about it. The question has already been asked, why do you need a truck? You need the right tool for the job. If you are doing serious towing, you want a 3/4 or 1 ton. A LOT of towing and a diesel might pay for its added up front cost. If you just want to haul trash to the dump an old S10 or Ranger will do it for you (as will a Comanche, and you will look cool doing it). As for Toyota, I've owned three of them, and they had their share of issues. Their reputation of reliability may be true when new, but my three used ones (80, 85, 88) all had their share of problems.

I smashed mine on a rock about 10 years ago. No need to replace it if it is still running, not interfering with the rotating parts inside, and not leaking. Unless just knowing it's there bothers you. My suggestion for a replacement is get a good original from the junkyard for cheap. I got one from a Grand Cherokee, along with all the nuts/bolts/harness clips, etc for cheap (don't remember how much, the pick-a-part places list their prices on their websites). It's cleaned up waiting to go in, I got a new gasket. Granted, I have a solvent tank to clean mine up in, but a couple cans of degreaser and a water hose would work too. I found a GC with the front axle already removed, which made things a lot easier. Going the junkyard route also gives you the free experience of pulling one off, so you know what you are getting into.

Well darn. I was excited for a minute, but yeah, that isn't the right stuff. That price is along the lines of common sense though!

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5590097799.html I am getting an urge to go look... must resist urge for new Jeep project...

http://loz.craigslist.org/cto/5586872628.html