schardein

I think that was the case, and I think there was an offset that was built into the seat somehow, that would not be accounted for if you directly swapped over the seat tracks. I just looked and apparently I didn't get any pics when I did my seat swap. I'll try to get some measurements/pics this weekend.

I have the rocker seats in my 91 XJ, and they are cool. They came from an 86 XJ. I also have a spare set. When I switched to buckets in the MJ, I looked at using those mounts. Obviously you would have to use the MJ base and adapt the rocker/seat rails. I wanna say there was a height difference but also the seats would be offset. Can't remember if it was inboard or outboard. In the end it was to much work and not easily doable. I'm super busy these days, but I might be able to look at everything this weekend.

I have a fiberglass hard cover on my Silverado, a factory installed part. When I bought the truck the owner didn't have the keys. Went to a local locksmith in Jacksonville NC and paid less than $15 to have two keys made. I called around beforehand and prices varied widely. Shop around and you may find a locksmith with reasonable prices.

https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Flexible-Tubing-Opaque-Length/dp/B0092L01HU/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1476270301&sr=1-9&keywords=plastic+vacuum+tubing Not sure if this is the same stuff as factory. And you would need to take some measurements to see if it was the right size.

Ok, now I'm curious what the angles are with each of the two different links. Another item for the to do list...

Was doing some parts research and became curious. Rockauto lists two different sway bar link lengths: 7 1/4" long one used to 5/20/91 8 1/4" long one used after 5/20/91 My Cherokee has a build date of Mar 1991. It has the longer links, but they have blue bushings and I suspect they were replaced at some point. My Comanche has a build date of Oct 1990. It has the shorter links and I bet they are original. Does anyone know why/what changed? Did they change the axle mounting point? I don't have a later axle to compare. Seems to me one could be 4wd, other 2wd, but there is no mention of that at all in the parts listings.

Depends, cans or bottles? My last trip to the junkyard, it was nice to come out and even though the AC doesn't work in the Silverado (it's about #15 on the to do list), it was nice to pull out an ice cold Gatorade!

If you need the screw covers in gray, that is the most common interior color for XJs and you should be able to find them in the junkyard. I might have a few gray ones floating around also.

I may be wrong, but both the Dana 35 and Dana 44 use one piece axle shafts I believe. No nut on the end of the axle, I don't think. Maybe you could use a lug nut? Not being centered, it would not be an accurate reading, unless that's the way the manual says to check it. INjake89mj, Also, this may not be a popular answer, but if you plan to do a lot of off roading, there are better choices for performance diffs and even though it's more money, if you have the axle apart maybe now is the time to do it. I'm guessing you are not planning for a lot of off road and budget is dictating use what you got.

I have one in the workshop and I can check tonight. Can post pics if I figure it out.

Awesome pics!

I've got power windows and locks in my XJ and like them. Certainly not against them in the MJ, just not at the top of my projects list.

As everyone already said, they are different. I came across an Eliminator in the junkyard, which had bucket seats, factory from what I've researched. And they were missing. I suspect someone already grabbed them.

This whole project started with this thought: "I've got so many Jeep parts, I could practically build one. Just need a frame, body, and title." It's a long story from there. I'll add it all on here eventually. I have a very specific plan for this Jeep. I used to daily drive a '67 CJ-5 when I was stationed in Hawaii. I still own it, but it doesn't run now. This Jeep will be an updated version of the '67. Stock looking on the outside, with upgrades where it counts. 1991 4.0ho motor, T5, Dana 300, D30/D44 with Truetracs & 3.73s, 30"-31" tires on stock wheels and suspension. And drive the heck out of it.

This started as a one summer project, and the second summer has now passed. It will be running before spring!!! I own more Jeeps than I should, but if I could have only one, this would be it.

This has been a years long project at this point. I'll add more details later, but for now, this is where it's at.

So I recently got a good deal on a Dometic CDF-11 12v refrigerator. I also own an ARB fridge, which is really nice and can run on 12v or 120v. The CDF-11 only runs on 12v but is a true fridge/freezer like the ARB, only smaller. And it sort of looks like a center console. So... I removed the center console in my Silverado and built a mounting bracket out of 1 1/4" angle iron. I designed it to tie into the mounting holes of the center console, so no drilling. I run a dual battery setup in my Silverado, using factory parts. The second battery is isolated when the truck is off so I can leave the fridge running when I park, if I want, without fear of running the starting battery dead. The fridge also has a low voltage shutoff to protect against dead batteries, but I've yet to really test that feature out. The fridge is fairly small, but it can hold drinks and sandwiches for two. Or a lot of ice cream for one! The cup holders are can sized, and I miss my larger ones in the console. There is still some room in front of it, still turning it over in my mind.

Nice setup. Are the brackets available or are they a one-off?

While you are at it, you might want to consider replacing your wing windows with the fixed ones. Some people love their wing windows, others don't like them (easier to break into, leaks). It's very common to find fixed windows on the later model XJs. If you want to keep them, they could be swapped into your new doors along with your manual window stuff.

A little white smoke can be normal, H2O is a normal by-product of combustion. More than a little indicates water in the cylinders (leaking/blown head gasket, cracked head). This will definitely make it run rough. And if it is a bad head gasket or cracked head and a cylinder gets more than a little water in it, you can have a broken piston or bent rod from hydro-lock the next time you try to start it.

I've got a set of factory tow hooks and mounting brackets to add one of these days. I like those a lot more. Especially the way they tie into the sway bar mounts. Don't you run some sway bar mounts that drop down and forward slightly? How do those fit into this setup?

It just occurred to me, the junkyard 96 XJ I pulled the TB from had like 290,000 miles in it. Guess the IAC/TPS having issues shouldn't come as a surprise. It had been catastrophically rear ended. Other than that, it was in pretty good shape and looked to have been reasonably maintained.

Good to know the TPS are the same. I'm thinking I left the original 96 on it, because the bolts seemed really tight, tighter than I would have put them on had I switched it out. No issues with the 96 MAP. I wasn't expecting any changes one way or the other, just wanted to clean up the engine compartment a little and eliminate the potential failure of the vacuum hose in the future. I did have a problem with a high idle shortly after the 96 TB swap, fixed by replacing the IAC with a spare. Hate to admit, I can't remember if I kept the 96 or swapped my previously cleaned up 91 IAC during the swap. I really do keep a maintenance log! Just didn't keep good notes on the TB swap. Plus I've done the same mods on my XJ.

How bad is yours? If it's minor pitting, you could have it beadblasted to get to clean metal and then use some filler to cover the pitting. Then seal prime paint. That's if it's not so bad it's missing chunks and no one rogers up with a spare.

I like it. I have some old craftsman box end wrenches with the two sizes on one wrench. Normal length, but the 1/2" / 9/16 is really handy for battery maintenance. I use military style top post terminals, 1/2" for tightening to the battery post and 9/16" for the cable connection.