schardein

Yes, they are the same. josehuerta, I have some. I have a pair of gray ones that I painted burgundy with SEM vinyl paint. The paint is coming off in places. I may have others, will have to look. You can PM me if interested. Also, I don't think those lower levers have a knob like the upper ones.

For those yellow rubber sockets used on the front markers: Those are the same thing used for the under dash courtesy lights in our XJs & MJs. Since the under dash lights aren't subjected to years of exposure to the elements like the marker lights, they generally look like new. I don't believe the marker light sockets have a disconnect at the harness, so they would have to be cut off. Then the connector from a courtesy light could be cut off, and the replacement socket spliced on either using a soldered connection or a crimp terminal, then covered with heat shrink. I've got extra courtesy light sockets if you are looking for some.

Are you looking for the plastic knob or the actual lever itself? Also, I think some years of 2 door Cherokees had the same levers as the Comanches. I think later Cherokees had the lever down at the bottom, like 94-96. What year is your 2 door XJ?

When I did a 5.3 swap in my CJ, I used the Novak adapter plate to adapt a Chevy truck bell housing to a NV3550. The later Chevy truck bell housing has a built in mount for an external hydraulic clutch release cylinder. They make a similar adapter for the AX15: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine-to-transmission/ax15/kit-gmax15/ When initially preparing for my swap, I found a guy local to me that had an AA adapter bell housing, flywheel, and clutch parts laying around and I got it for cheap. After some mockup, I didn't like it and ended up selling it to buy the Novak stuff.

Here is an option for a replacement light. I have some available if you are interested.

Personally, I don't think anything looks as good as the factory gauges. But if planning to go custom/aftermarket, I would take a look at Speedhut. I have a set of their gauges in my CJ-7 and they are awesome. The speedo runs off GPS, no need for a speedometer cable or to calibrate it for different gears or tires. Has the capability to run off a computer speed signal if desired.

Awesome! added to my wish list on Amazon. I can totally imagine a conversation at Gearwrench Headquarters that started out as a joke, "we should sell a multi pack of 10mm sockets haha".

Pic with center cap

What did you like better about the other color?

Silver sparkle, right?

I had these 5 wheels done, and two sets of Jeep CJ sway bars done in black (2 sway bars, 4 frame mounts, 4 bushing loops)= $400. I used Springfield Powder Coating in Ozark, MO. This was my 3rd batch of parts I've taken there. Mark (the owner) says the wheels have a lifetime guarantee on the finish, if they ever peel or flake, bring them back and have them redone for free. Some other work they've done:

Took a set of 10 spoke wheels to the powder coater. Should have taken a before pic, these looked pretty bad, lots of corrosion, brake dust, and such. Came out pretty good.

I may have some, will look today. Do you have power windows? Because the speaker grills you are looking for interfere with the manual window crank... ask me how I know.

Like this. I ran the MOPAR 1994 4.0HO conversion kit on a 1991 XJ motor installed in my 83 CJ7 for over 10 years.

When you are ready to spend some $$$, check out powersteering.com I had my original CJ-7 PS gear rebuilt there, it's nice for me that it's local. Box was rebuilt, changed from 20:1 ratio to 16-13:1 variable ratio, and looks new. I just dropped off another box from my 80 CJ-5 that I am restoring for him to go through.

My research shows that the 1991 splash graphics is one year only (91), and 1992 was different and also one year only. I would be interested in 91 splash reproductions.

I think it's odd that the left and right have different part numbers, are even marked L and R, but are completely interchangeable.

OK, correction/addition to the above post. Something kept itching at the back of my mind, and it finally hit me. That first picture above isn't an XJ shifter. Those must be 2 different versions of a TJ shifter. Here is an XJ shifter on a NV3550. The base still has a square stub, but a slightly different bend. Shifter is rubber isolated, shorter, and points more to the driver. Uses 2 bolts/set screws to secure to the stub.

If I remember right, you can't use the 91 and newer headlight buckets on the 90 and older header panel. The header panel is shaped just a little differently in the turn signal area, interfering with proper fit. Or it might be the other way around, can't use the older two piece headlight buckets on the newer header panel, I can't remember which. The real problem with the older setup is the upper and lower metal trim pieces. As far as I know they are only available used, and getting harder to find in good shape in the junkyards.

I've got both pieces of the driver side headlight bucket if you want to start piecing together a set from separate sources. Stay away from aftermarket pieces, in my experience the headlight buckets don't fit well.

If you still need one, I have used extras. Cost of shipping.

I will be making a trip from MO to WV at the end of the month and hitting junkyards all along the way. I can look out for a tank if you want one. You will want to pull the fender to install it. Unless you've had your fender flare off before, it's very common for the studs on the mount plates to break off and repair some sort of fabricated repair, or replacement. I don't remember the size, but it's helpful to have a hole saw to drill the hole in the inner fender for the filler neck.

Some good advice here. If you want to keep things simple, take a best guess at the high end, and add "or best offer". Some may complain the price is outrageous. Ignore them. Someone who is really interested will message with an offer, and use your best judgment from there. Keep in mind some pieces that are also used in the XJ Cherokee are still available, while others are getting very hard to find, and still others are Comanche specific and no longer available anywhere except used.

I have an NV3550 in my CJ. I had an XJ one in it, then when I swapped in a Chevy 5.3, I used a TJ one. As already stated, I think the t-case clocking is different. The shifter stub (on the trans shift tower) for the XJ has a slight "s" curve to it, which moves it backwards slightly. It is square, and the shifter lever has a female end that slips over it and is secured by a set screw. The TJ shifter stub is straight, and is a round with a flat on one side. It also has a threaded hole going straight in the middle. The shifter stick has a rubber isolated piece on the bottom that slides onto the stub, and a torx head bolt goes straight in securing it to the shifter stub. The stick is actually welded to the steel encased rubber isolator. First pic is shows the shift tower with curved stub, and non-isolated stick. Second pic shows rubber isolated stick. Random pics from google. I didn't try it, but I bet you could swap shift towers if one worked better than the other for swap purposes.

Last pick-a-part run, I got a blower motor resistor pack from a Chevy express van. It uses a weather sealed connector, and incorporates a relay that engages on the "high" setting to route power directly to the fan motor. It also has 4 speeds. I plan to experiment a little to see if I can retrofit it in my CJ. The main issue I see, is the mounting tabs sit on a stand off (or boss) in the oem application, and not flush like the CJ. Overcome that and it's just splicing some wires.