schardein

There’s so much grease in these steering columns, it’s a wonder the inside of our trucks doesn’t reek of it.

Coming at the problem from another angle- A squealing belt can indicate a loose belt, as everyone has commented on. It can also indicate a problem in the battery/charging system, other than the alternator. A battery that won't hold a charge due to age or damage may have just enough juice to start the vehicle, but then be mostly depleted and the alternator is practically being full fielded by the voltage regulator in an effort to recharge the battery. A full system inspection might be a good idea: check the battery, battery cable connections, battery cables themselves (cut or broken insulation, internal corrosion), connections at the starter and block, & alternator charge circuit wire. Cruiser's Tips cover all of these I think and are a great guide. Also, it's good practice to turn off all unnecessary accessories (high amp stereo, heat/AC fan, etc) when shutting down the vehicle, and leaving them off as the vehicle is started/warmed up. This removes as much load from the battery/alternator as possible. Turning off the AC, and Defroster (which also engages the AC comp) is also a good idea when shutting down. That way the AC compressor isn't loading the belt immediately after start up, when the alternator is (probably) trying to recharge a battery that just had a big discharge to start the vehicle, as well as possibly being discharged from sitting for a while. For those that don't know, an alternator that is working hard to recharge is also harder to turn, putting a higher load on the belt.

It's been a while since I messed with mine, but I think you just adjust the location of the clip (at the end of the cable) on the steering column edge. Adjust it to get the most accurate readings from all gears. The length of the cable probably varies slightly from part to part. The exact placement of the gauge cluster in relation to the steering column probably varies very slightly also. So some adjustment is to be expected, I think.

PM sent

Keep in mind the type of ignition key changed at some point. If you want to keep your original key by switching over the lock cylinder, you need a compatible steering column.

I have a D30 front axle out of a very early XJ (85, IIRC) with the V6. Has factory 3.73 gears, high pinion, non-disconnect. Grabbed it at a local yard several years ago for my eventual MJ 4wd conversion.

There is an inner axle seal that is replaceable. But there is also some sort of RTV used when the axle tube is assembled to the diff casting at the factory, and I think that is what is pictured.

I was recently at the St Louis Pick n Pull and they have a red 2 door 1993 Cherokee with gray flip forward bucket seats. They looked pretty good other than the bezels for the flip forward lever were missing, as they often are. This was on 6 Jun 2020. What's weird is it doesn't show up on their website inventory. The doors have manual window cranks. I don't know if the 2 door regulators are the same as 4 door/MJ.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333610614715

I run the 120mph cluster in my MJ.

I have a 91 clock, PM sent.

135621055105763647 expires 14 June

It's been a while now, and I didn't get a receipt. But I wanna say $400 for 5 wheels and a few odds & ends thrown in. That is with a warranty that if they ever peel, he will redo them free. I actually don't remember exactly now. I had a set of Jeep CJ wagon wheels and a 6 cylinder Borla header done (header done in high heat resistant). It was expensive. Then I had several batches of various brackets, Jeep armor, etc, and it was surprisingly cheap. I'm set up to do my own powder coating now, but not sure I would tackle a set of 5 wheels. I'd be doing them one at a time in my garage (kitchen sized) oven, where this business can do them in one shot in the walk in oven. If you are thinking about it, just call around to your local shops to get an idea. Obviously, bringing in a set of wheels (no tires) and being flexible on the time frame would be cheaper than driving the car in and letting them handle it start to finish. This place does a lot of bulk work at the city level, so the fact I am flexible on completion time helps get a good price. EIDT: the owner is a great guy who has helped me out with other contacts, a guy who does zinc & cadmium plating, and a pinstriper for my CJ wheels.

These are my favorite XJ/MJ wheel. I've collected a set buying them one, two, or three at a time at junkyards. Generally pay $25 - $40 per wheel. I've also bought sets usually around $100. Exceptionally good shape might bring more. Poorer shape might be considerably less. I picked my worst set and had them powder coated. Very happy with results, but expensive enough I don't think I'd ever get my money back if I was to sell them. I've listed aluminum wheels for sale at about scrap aluminum prices. Some sell, some get scrapped.

That's a great point, it's important to point out this alternator is regulated by the HO computer. Swaps into a Renix originally equipped with an internally regulated alternator would require an external regulator.

I have some brief notes on an 136 amp alternator upgrade, from 97-98 Dodge Durango & Jeep Grand Cherokee, OEM part number 56027913, alternate number 0280155703. I ran this on the 91 XJ motor I put in my CJ7 from 1998-2014. At some point I switched out the XJ bracket for a YJ bracket, and I can't remember if the 7913 alternator fit the factory XJ mount or not. It's just been to long, I can't remember, but I want to say it's a bolt in. EDIT: I think the alternator bolted in, but the pulley had 7 grooves, versus 6 for the XJ/MJ. I used it anyway, with a gap at the front, with no issues for over a decade before swapping a 6 groove pulley onto the alternator.

I have a both a black pair and a chrome pair of hooks.

The service manuals I am familiar with say a case spreader is required. That you have gotten by without one in the past doesn't mean they aren't a standard tool for diff work. If you are putting in new gears, the old shims are only a starting point. No guarantee they will be right. Backlash & gear pattern must still be checked and shims adjusted to get them right.

Another interesting thing about brass doorknobs- they are naturally antibacterial. Discovered this surfing the net one time, don't remember what I was originally searching for...

I get it. I remember the days of repairing my only vehicle. It can be stressful. Luckily, I have backup vehicles now which is nice. The MJ D44 build is basically on hold for a bit while I finalize some things on my CJ7 in prep for four wheeling trips this summer, and prepping for a friend who is coming to visit for a few days, bringing his LJ that needs some work done. I've got all the parts, next step is installing the new ring & pinion and want to be sure I have plenty of time to commit to that, so I don't have to stop in the middle.

I think I have a pair of hooks, if you want to piece a full set up together. Can get pics this afternoon. All the originals I have seen are chrome plated. If you are ok with black painted, I think any generic tow hook will fit https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-lb-capacity-tow-hook-kit-67497.html

I've got a bed light and corresponding switch bezel & switch. I scored it at the JY and was going to put it on my MJ. But as I cleaned it up, I was honestly surprised and how... shall we say... "low tech" they are.' I like the repair, you'll probably never have to mess with it again. I hate drilling extra holes in the body, even if hidden by the light. If I were doing this, I might run that ground wire down to the driver side rear speaker bracket and ground it at an existing screw.

My 91 MJ has done this since I bought it. Let it sit a couple days and it will rattle for a good 5-6 seconds before quieting down. It keeps on running good though. I am doing a 4x4 conversion soon, and will swap to a 1996 4.0 at the same time. I don't know what causes it.

Manche757, I checked the plug prongs after running the oven for 30 min@400 degrees, they were room temperature.

Next up was a brake drum for a M416 trailer.