Strokermjcomanche

You can swap to the 96 fan bracket so you can use a 96 compressor and use the 88 belt . You don’t need the 96 idler pulley , the power steering pump will tighten the belt

Did you check the fuses with the test light? If you didn’t there’s no way in telling if there’s power going through them or not.

If you have a Facebook account. This guy made an adapter harness so I’m sure he probably knows where the pins/connectors

Did that come from cruiser54 ? I sold him one years ago .....

I’ve towed quite a bit with my short bed Comanche with my own personal tow dolly. This is the last Cherokee that I towed home, 65-70 mile an hour on the way home . I normally always try to put them perfectly center in the tow dolly To eliminate the risk of any swaying. This one was 4 1/2 hours with no issues.

I asked about that today, everything is done they’re just waiting on inventory. They never said an exact time as to when they were going be coming in.

First of all, how far are you filling the tank to? Second of all I do agree with purchasing a Mopar or macs reservoir. Or as another option you could go to an open cooling system From a 91 and up Cherokee or Comanche. This is all assuming that you don’t have any underlying issues like a head gasket or a blockage

Underside is cleaned up . Also installed the grille , bumper , flares . Brakes are in good shape too .

X2

Ohm the solenoids and check the tps

Definitely not gonna get fixed first of all. only project on this is taking it apart. The seller wanted it to go with somebody that had a Comanche so the parts could live on. 1990 Mj with roughly 200,000 miles on it but has been swapped to a 96 4x4 auto 231 tcase Cherokee Drivetrain with only 49,000 original miles on it. Been smacked pretty good as the last owner was a veteran and ended up putting it in the ditch and then hitting a tree, And unfortunately passed shortly after.The floors, rockers, cab corners, bed, are all in good shape. Still runs and drives the way it is but broke the intake and the frame is a pretzel on the driver side. Funny thing is a local Jeep yard Sold this truck for roughly 12k several years back With a freshly installed 43,000 mile drive train. I remember looking at it in person and it was a lot better shape than it is now obviously. I’m going to keep it off to the side I’ll try to find a clean roller to Swap everything into.

A couple ferrules will do the job of looking factory like

Let me look, I had a pair of power mirrors out of a beautiful Laredo . They are not new but they were in great shape. Not sure if I sold them early though.

I only get my driver side window to come up and down, my right front window and the locks don’t work. I know there was a thread regarding this but I can’t seem to find it. Do you have to move the metal tab that connects the window switches to make everything work properly. It might’ve been Jeremy (Minuit) that explained it all, but again I can’t find the thread . Thanks for all your help.

There are some used ones on eBay for roughly half the price. But who know what kind of shape they’re in .

I changed to the K suspension Viper coil mod . It uses a dodge caravan coil pack which I have already swapped out with a new one . I have checked and rechecked the firing order to make sure it’s correct

IMG_0495.MOV

Bought a 2001 Cherokee several months ago with no engine as it was a donor for another Jeep. The engine he swapped over ran fine in the Jeep before hand according to him, as he also took some body parts for the Cherokee he was repairing. I had an engine with 71,000 miles on it that I put in along with new injectors, new O2 sensors by Bosch, new wires, K suspension viper coil mod, New cam positioning sensor Mopar CPS…Pretty much everything new being that I didn’t have anything to work with beforehand. The wiring harness and ECU are original to the Jeep. Engine has a miss at idle , Swapped out everything all over again with no change, I am not getting any codes either. Swapped out for another ECU with no change, ran a compression test and one cylinder was a little bit low. So after doing Everything I thought that I could do I swapped another engine in with 22,000 miles on it and I still have the same issue. Any ideas or else I can look for a known problem.? I doubt two engines would have the same issue and this one has even compression throughout the all cylinders. I can take a video of it too and upload it.Thanks in advance

Gjeep has, he just did a write up on here a month or 2 ago

That is correct

Off of number 7

I normally leave one lug nut on And use a sledgehammer from behind the wheel knocking it outward . I used to work at a junkyard and never had one that I couldn’t get off. I understand that You said you used a sledge hammer... heat around the lip of the wheel first and then give it some big shots. You might bend in the lip of the rim but wheels are easily had .

Engine installed and running . Also painted and installed fenders / header panel , bumpers / flares / grille/ yet to be installed but are painted.